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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-24-2006, 06:53 AM   #17026
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TRC wheels have six mounting holes and as such should work for 2 as well as 3 hole hubs.
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:00 AM   #17027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustinkeys
Where is the best place to order parts for my yokomo 1/12? Also what body should I order. THanks
Try Stormerhobbies...http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...e=&man=&page=8
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:29 AM   #17028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator
Are 2 bolt wheels still available? If not, my smokin deal just went up in smoke! That 3 bolt axle out of a 12L3 I was given doesn't line up... it's wider than my pod and it looks like the tires will hit... new pod pieces would fix it, but I might as well pick up a used 12L3 for the difference.

Whats the oppinion on the 12L3 axle? Is it junk? I see the 12L4 has gone back to a solid with a clamp. Is it worth spending the extra to get a 12L4 over the 12L3? I am only club racing with about 8 other cars.

Thanks for the help
I had the same issue with my L3 axle. I ended up putting a plastic washer inside the left hub to space it away from the pod. Then I shimmed accordingly, putting more shims on the right hub to center the rear axle again. I also had to make the inside hole on the plastic washer bigger. I used the same plastic washer that is used on the front axle for shimming.
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:36 AM   #17029
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Any guys from CRC on here? When can we get an update CRC website?
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Old 01-24-2006, 11:58 AM   #17030
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i am interested in purchasing a 12th scale car very soon. the track i run at is medium-high traction asphalt. which car would would be a great starting point?
chris
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:04 PM   #17031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisw
i am interested in purchasing a 12th scale car very soon. the track i run at is medium-high traction asphalt. which car would would be a great starting point?
chris
If you wait a week or two BMI's complete kits should be available. That car works everywhere....carpet and asphalt.
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:07 PM   #17032
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Can't wait for that
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Old 01-24-2006, 04:51 PM   #17033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntensweapon
Thanks alot Doug. i have been "snoozing" lately. haven't checked on this thread in a while.

what started out as a bunch of very rough drawings is now working reality. the GIANTKILLER 12. thanks to Doug @PRC for the knowledge and graphite cutting.
all in all i thought the Black Widow was pretty good. but i was unhappy with a few things. i found the graphite to be too thin and brittle. the design of the car exagerated this. i didn't like the battery position. i know why they did it that way, but my gut told me it was unnecessary for stock and 19t. i also didn't think it was fitting to have a trinity car without the dieter style front end. i didn't like the tubes.and i also thought the car was a little long.
so what i came up with was.
3mm high quality chassis/bottom plate
cells run front to back with extra large openings for movement
shortened wheelbase
associated and trinity/deiter front end mounting holes
crc style tubes
the car is in early testing. i am very pleased so far. the tubes on my car i made myself..i am currently working with a machinist to run some copies. also possibly yet to come are scribe lines in the chassis for battery position.
Looks good... Certainly a 3mm chassis would be a nice upgrade/option for the BW.
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Old 01-24-2006, 05:35 PM   #17034
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I have a question about front suspensions I have a 12L4 and Im not sure wich front end to use the old school or the current one on the 12L4 wich one would provide more steering just curious and what is the difference between the two any help would be greatly appreciate it and for the old school front end are there any shims I could use to lower the front end is there a part#
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Old 01-24-2006, 05:37 PM   #17035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuelgun
Looks good... Certainly a 3mm chassis would be a nice upgrade/option for the BW.
Why in the wolrd would you want that? A 1/12th with a 2.5mm chassis and no openings is stiff as a granite slab. 1/12th cars are already too heavy and a 3mm chassis would make it even worse.
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Old 01-24-2006, 05:50 PM   #17036
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Adrian, you're right most 1/12 scales are over weight. it was something that i considered. surprisingly enough it doesn't add a whole alot more wieght above 2.5. if the cells were cutout like bmi's i wouldn't consider 3mm.
we don't race in the dumps we used too. with old carpet and whoop sections down the back straight. what i am seeing is top notch facilities with high grip fast track ozite and smooth floors. beleive it or not...there are chassis out there thicker than 3mm.
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:55 PM   #17037
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Remember when your mom asked you, "if your friend jumped off a bridge would you?".

Just because the XYZ Donkey Punch 12 has a 5mm pocketed chassis that doesn't mean that's a good idea.

The stock RC 12L4 with a .090" carbon chassis still wins every were. Paul Lemieux won Cleveland with a 2mm lower chassis on his FK05 and won the Novak race with a T2 that was all 2.5mm. Carpet racers have this stiffer is better mentality. This is true to a point but there is a point of diminishing returns where the a thicker chassis is not stiffer and just weighs more.

.090" carbon (~2.25mm) weighs 24% less than 3mm carbon. You can get quality 2mm, 2.25mm and 2.5mm high modulus quasi-isotropic carbon that is way stiffer than many commonly available sheets of imported 3mm carbon.

There are improvements to be made such as lowered pods, slightly longer pods for more gear options, front track width, wheelbase and better front end designs. Lets concentrate on 1/12th design aspects that generate real improvements and stay away from lead sleds made from 1/4" thick carbon.
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:40 PM   #17038
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adrian i can make you a 2.5mm chassis. if you want one lmk
the black widow has alot of good things you mentioned. i think the chassis needed to be stiffer. i wanted to be above .1...3mm is where i had to be. what can i say the car works.
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:59 PM   #17039
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I ran my BMI DB12 for th first time this last weekend. All I can say is wow... great car. I have a brand new Yokomo for sale... if anyone is interested.
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Old 01-24-2006, 08:03 PM   #17040
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yeh ive hurd great things from it might just need to buy one to see wats it about
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