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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-18-2006, 01:39 PM   #16891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Ok, I will try that. Thanks Ray.
Grandegixxer-be sure to take off the axle, pod top plate, shock, cross brace and make sure the pod moves freely after resetting the football. Thats #1 on a any link car!! if it moves like molasses or moves with a click-then the football needs to be adjusted on the two mounting screws till the pod moves silky smooth.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:06 PM   #16892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-B
Grub Maker, TQ Orange is the dressing allowed at Gilroy. TQ Orange for Stockton also, but I belive RTB has been allowing Niftechs tire dressing on a trial run to obtain some test results. Best to check with Ruben on the Niftech before using it. Big Bill
Thanks Bill......

Chris V...
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:15 PM   #16893
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Somebody recommended laying my servo flat.
Instead of using tape, has anyone used stand up servo posts instead of the typical slant types on the L4?
Maybe the Xray posts?
Obviously you would only be using 2 screws instead of 4 since the holes would not align if you are using a micro servo.
Or
is double sided tape or shoe-goo still better?
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:26 PM   #16894
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If you look at The Speed Merchant website there is a great pic of Mike Dumas's car where the servo is mounted with straight servo mounts, that works or sho glu w/servo tape is also great. But if you're doing it with the dynamic front end there is a bit of a bump steer issue with straight mounts
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:27 PM   #16895
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With the BMI i run, the holes all line up and i've been able to use the mounts on the servo we usually cut off.

I believe the reason most guys glue them in on the L4's is because of the position. if you were to use servo mounts i don't think you can get the servo in the correct position as the right servo mount looking from the rear of the car would interfere with lower wishbone

So for correct alignment that mount also needs to be cut off thus leaving tape and glue as the only mounting options.....
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Old 01-18-2006, 06:16 PM   #16896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
With the BMI i run, the holes all line up and i've been able to use the mounts on the servo we usually cut off.

I believe the reason most guys glue them in on the L4's is because of the position. if you were to use servo mounts i don't think you can get the servo in the correct position as the right servo mount looking from the rear of the car would interfere with lower wishbone

So for correct alignment that mount also needs to be cut off thus leaving tape and glue as the only mounting options.....
I see what you mean. What if you used the threaded Xray ones and mounted the servo behind the posts instead of in front?
Also, I thought people mounted the servo flat to eliminate bump steer?
I guess I'm wrong?
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:21 PM   #16897
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I found mounting the servo FLAT increased initial turn in. It alters the ackerman angels

Correcting the Bump Steer after mounting the servo flat requires shimming the ball studs on your steering arms.I never found i could get it perfect but you should be able to get it good

If your running indoors on carpet i'd recomend the flat servo

Oh and if you've cut off the alternate mounting ears from the servo in the past I'd guess your going to be using tape and glue to fix it. I can't see any way of using posts thats going to work correctly, well not while keeping the servo far enough forward anyway
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:35 PM   #16898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azmio
Smoke,

Good question, many people have been wondering how i maintain balance with my pan car. I did some measurement, the SS ESC is about 40 gram. GP 3700 cell is about 50g if I'm not mistaken. Next, i put my Spektrum ESC on top of my servo. Voila, almost perfect 50% weight to both sides.

5 cells are great because it gives me extra punch and top end speed without sacrificing my handling. it reminds me of Honda when they came up with V10 engine while others are caught in between V8 and V12 engines. Give it a try and you can give nitro cars hard time

By the way, I have transferred my GTB brushless from my 1/10 pan car to 1/12 due to excessive thermal shutdown (i have runned out of space cause it even shutdown with 122/20 gear ratio. havent tried it yet on track and i'm hoping that it wont be raining tomorrow evening. I hope that the power is still controllable or i have to play around with the gear ratio.
Azmio,
Dude still no reply on what ratio should I be starting off.
I'm running a CRC six pack, and motor space is real limited. i could still squeeze up 88/22 i guess but now with 90/21 it's just right without knocking up on my cross bar as i've already shave up one end. had to flip it over.
I've tried 5 cells by having a 6th dummy cell. pointless as you said .. extra 50 grams (in my case 100grams) really eats up the tires faster. 4 cells will do for me .. (my opinion only).
What car are you running?
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:38 PM   #16899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merciless
I found mounting the servo FLAT increased initial turn in. It alters the ackerman angels

Correcting the Bump Steer after mounting the servo flat requires shimming the ball studs on your steering arms.I never found i could get it perfect but you should be able to get it good

If your running indoors on carpet i'd recomend the flat servo

Oh and if you've cut off the alternate mounting ears from the servo in the past I'd guess your going to be using tape and glue to fix it. I can't see any way of using posts thats going to work correctly, well not while keeping the servo far enough forward anyway
sounds good. I guess I will stick with the angled posts for now.
Thanks.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:39 PM   #16900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captian
ha jaybee car looks great have the same car just sitting for months i see you up graded the front and the diff gear can you give me the part number for those parts
thanks
Thanks for the compliments... the upgraded front-end parts are- CRC Machined Delrin Steering Blocks #4277, CRC Machined Delrin A-arms #4275, CRC Aluminum 5-degree casters #4268 and Lunsford Titanium frt. axles #8043.
The spur is just a Kimbrough #210 96T/64P spur w/ Kimbrough #140 spur gear covers... HTH
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:57 PM   #16901
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ill try one more time and see if i can get answer

i am still new to 12th scale so i wanted to ask a few quetions.

how does the handling of the car change when you change to a heavier ot lighter center shock spring.

also how does moving the collar on the center shock up or down effect the car.
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:24 PM   #16902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grub_Maker
Ya I kinda got the idea from one of you pixs, but the grasshopper has limited skills.... No cheeseburgers @ my work, but I can do pizza or pasta ???
Best that the grasshopper becomes a turtle in working on the car. Be methodical and ye shall be rewarded...

I'm older than those dudes; so, no 'wise' cracks.
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:27 PM   #16903
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Bill ..... e and Greg are headed out for racing Friday. You up for some 12th scale?
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:48 PM   #16904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schurcr
Bill ..... e and Greg are headed out for racing Friday. You up for some 12th scale?
Work has been good for the past few weeks. Suppose I can take another Friday off. I will probably show up around noon. Think that the 3 wise men are coming too. Stock or 19T?

Rev 4 is now all fixed up with CRC rear side pods. It had some oddly machined ones that has taken these several weeks to figure out.

Sure been missin' Stockton this month.

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Old 01-18-2006, 11:59 PM   #16905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
ill try one more time and see if i can get answer

i am still new to 12th scale so i wanted to ask a few quetions.

how does the handling of the car change when you change to a heavier ot lighter center shock spring.

also how does moving the collar on the center shock up or down effect the car.
The oil in the shock controls the speed in which the piston moves in the shock body. Lighter oil, faster movement of the piston and less shock action. This allows the rear pod to move more or should I say, quicker. I have found that the lighter the shock oil, the more rear traction and less steering. The heavier the oil, the slower the rear pod moves and the less rear traction and more steering.

The spring collar on the shock body is used to make the chassis level with the motor pod plate. If you can put your car on a flat surface that you can hold up and look at the ride height, the chassis and bottom motor pod plate should be on the same plane.
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