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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-16-2006, 10:17 AM   #16816
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hey thanks. I guess what i'm looking for info on is. what does it mean by 3 to1 and 3 to 2 ratio
next is my car feel really tight. trying to get her to be more lose.
This past weekend. I came in 2 in the d main. the guy in first was a bit smother. but just had more grunt(power) both infeild and on the straight.

WE all run a monster hand out. com's about a week old and running red spring and f brushes. I'm also running 35 in shock with red spring.

I also feel that I should have more high end turning for fast long sweeper.

I will try your 4mm right hight all around and see how that goes.

Question do rx pack make much of a diff. espically Since I only run stock.

Here a photo of one of our tracks. We change it everyweek to keep it fresh.here a sample of one of our tracks.
http://64.251.78.242/IROCC/photos/ga...egory=5&ID=570
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:22 AM   #16817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
hey thanks. I guess what i'm looking for info on is. what does it mean by 3 to1 and 3 to 2 ratio
next is my car feel really tight. trying to get her to be more lose.
This past weekend. I came in 2 in the d main. the guy in first was a bit smother. but just had more grunt(power) both infeild and on the straight.

WE all run a monster hand out. com's about a week old and running red spring and f brushes. I'm also running 35 in shock with red spring.

I also feel that I should have more high end turning for fast long sweeper.

I will try your 4mm right hight all around and see how that goes.

Question do rx pack make much of a diff. espically Since I only run stock.

Here a photo of one of our tracks. We change it everyweek to keep it fresh.here a sample of one of our tracks.
http://64.251.78.242/IROCC/photos/ga...egory=5&ID=570
If you want your car to be more loose, make front ride height 0.5mm lower than rear. If not enough go with 1.0mm lower. Red spring is somewhat hard. You could go with a softer spring and let off the throttle at corner entry a little more. Softer spring gives more off power steering.
For stock don't bother with RX packs. It only gives you a few seconds of extra runtime.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:24 AM   #16818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Hi there Eric and Ray, thanks for pointing me right on the servos.

Are there any good foam bumpers out there made specially for the 12th scale? Something like those used for 10th scale? Just trying to play safe on the chassis in events of crashes hehe.

Try to contact Rubberneck racing for a foam bumper. I used them on my L4 and they also fit the CRC cars. Same front body mount spacing.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:56 AM   #16819
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Default Rubberneck racing

Does Rubberneck racing have a website ?

Matt.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:00 AM   #16820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
hey thanks. I guess what i'm looking for info on is. what does it mean by 3 to1 and 3 to 2 ratio
next is my car feel really tight. trying to get her to be more lose.
This past weekend. I came in 2 in the d main. the guy in first was a bit smother. but just had more grunt(power) both infeild and on the straight.

WE all run a monster hand out. com's about a week old and running red spring and f brushes. I'm also running 35 in shock with red spring.

I also feel that I should have more high end turning for fast long sweeper.

I will try your 4mm right hight all around and see how that goes.

Question do rx pack make much of a diff. espically Since I only run stock.

Here a photo of one of our tracks. We change it everyweek to keep it fresh.here a sample of one of our tracks.
http://64.251.78.242/IROCC/photos/ga...egory=5&ID=570
You had a D main? How many cars do you run in a main? If it's ten cars, then that's a lot of 1/12th scale entries!! Cool!!

Try going to to a green spring on the negitive side of the motor and cut your com every three or four runs. Depends on your budget. Also try and get your roll out to around 44mm to 46mm with the Monster green can motors. Each motor within the same model number is different. Some will like less roll out while others will like more. It also depends on the track layout. Less roll out for a tight track and more for a longer more flowing track.

For more steering on long sweepers try stiffening up the rear of the car with a stiffer center spring. Or soften up the front springs or softer tire compound. I would try stiffening up the rear of the car first.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:11 AM   #16821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Hi there Eric and Ray, thanks for pointing me right on the servos.

Are there any good foam bumpers out there made specially for the 12th scale? Something like those used for 10th scale? Just trying to play safe on the chassis in events of crashes hehe.
Best foam bumper I have seen for 1/12th scale is the one offered by Slapmaster Tools up in Washington State (Cost is $5.50). It comes with an angled cut on its leading edge to match up to the contour of the body shell.

Slapmaster Tools also makes a thrust bearing replacement (for the mickey mouse cone & washer assembly) that I use on all my 1/12th cars (Cost is a steep $30; but, you won't be replacing the rightside outer bearing all the time.

Bill
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:40 AM   #16822
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pbud makes foam bumpers for the 1/12 and they will soon be up and running on the 1/12 car stand as well
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:59 AM   #16823
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Man! www.slapmastertools.com seriously needs to work on their website.
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Old 01-16-2006, 12:05 PM   #16824
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Crashby
Thanks for the info. will try that out next week. yeah we had 33 racers out last week. and we had a few reg. missing in action. we actully had an e heat and main. with 8 then 7 in each so there room for a bump up. we run only5 to 6 feet lanes and we only run 12 scale in the winter. the we go touring in the summer. keep it fresh year round.
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Old 01-16-2006, 12:08 PM   #16825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
Man! www.slapmastertools.com seriously needs to work on their website.
Didn't you notice that they are working on a new website and that you mean that on only a temp.
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:35 PM   #16826
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{VIC_RDX}-carpet or asphalt? If carpet the set-up is easy. Let me know. As for tires, yes-IRS and CRC make lowered pod plates. IRS also makes lowered front arms that acheive the same thing. With this combo on my old L4 I could run 1.59" fronts and 1.62" rears and still make 3mm ride height.


i am running on asphalt
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:46 PM   #16827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
It would be best to look into the JR line or KO, Futuba then Airtronics. You could buy the Hitec, it'll work but you'll just end up replacing it with a higher quality servo later.
E
I agree with this. I've been using three different Hitec HS-81MG (metal gear) servos. They are cheap, metal gears, fast, sufficient torque, and lighter than other 12th scale servos. I saw "metal gears" and thought I was good to go. What I failed to overlook was ball bearings. My HS-81MG servos are all working fine but the problem is an increase in play. The servo head itself gets sloppy over time. Even though the servo saver is firmly screwed on tight, the whole metal servo head is sloppy. This causes a lot of front end play.

Lately, I changed to an Airtronics 94145Z and couldn't be happier. This thing is smooth and rock solid. No sloppy play anywhere. I really like all of the ears (6 in total) that come on this servo. It gives you many different mounting options.
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:37 PM   #16828
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hello, I am going to get a CRC 3.1.

The seller said that it has a a broken Axle, and most likey the left hub ( opposite hub from the spur gear). I found a deal for a used rc12L3 axle to replace the broken one on the CRC 3.1. But I need a Left Hub still, and I am not sure if the rc12l4 left hub will fit with the rc12l3's axle. Any ways, will this combination work? ive heard that the L3 axle is not good and i should just get the big D style.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:03 PM   #16829
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You are better off getting the whole kit from CRC. It is about 45 bucks and includes everything you need. It is an IRS diff with the D-rings.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:31 PM   #16830
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i am still new to 12th scale so i wanted to ask a few quetions.

how does the handling of the car change when you change to a heavier ot lighter center shock spring.

also how does moving the collar on the center shock up or down effect the car.
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