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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-15-2006, 08:39 AM   #16801
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Default RC12L4

I was wondering about the RC12L4, and I was wondering what pinion gear I should use for the 100t 64P Spur Gear. I want to have a 3:1 gear ratio, and I have a Team Orion 10T motor. If anyone can tell me if this setup is ok, or if I should try another setup. I want a setup for TOP END SPEED, NOT for Torque. Also, what about a 2:1 gear ratio? Would that fry the motor???

Specs:

Stock RC12L4
Airtronics Blazer Sport with Servo
LRP AI Bullet Automatic
Team Orion 10T Motor
100T Spur Gear
? Pinion Gear
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:52 AM   #16802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Do you want to sell it?
no i just want it put together right and i know you and OD car work and if i can have you put it together i know it would work better then me putting it together.
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:24 PM   #16803
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Yo Stockton Guys,
What is a good rollout to start with for Gilroy ?? With a green machine...

Thanks,
Chris V........
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:41 PM   #16804
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hey guy's I'm still farily new to 12 scale. been running pretty good. Well just trying to figure out more things to set up and make the car run more smoothly. I read 3 to 1 and 3 to 1 ration. what do this mean.

Oh I run a 3.2 crc in Stock. everyone in my club runs stock on a 12 scale specific track. tight lanes with tight turns.. Oh yeah we also run monster stock hand out and 3300 4 cells.

Any type of help that could start me in the right direction would be great..

Oh I do have a question on the 12l4 the front suspension has a cross bar. and my crc 3.2 doesn't. I was thinking on trying the l4 front suspension.

Oh yeah I also run Jaco purple front and grey back. still pretty new.
with 18 front spring. with 5degree of camber.
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:25 PM   #16805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz_S
no i just want it put together right and i know you and OD car work and if i can have you put it together i know it would work better then me putting it together.
But Taz...It will really be better if you build it AND it works well.

You can do it kiddo!
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 01-15-2006, 10:56 PM   #16806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grub_Maker
Yo Stockton Guys,
What is a good rollout to start with for Gilroy ?? With a green machine...

Thanks,
Chris V........
It really depends on your motor but, I would start somewhere around 45 on your roll out. That's what I ran today at Gilroy and it was pretty good!
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Old 01-15-2006, 11:09 PM   #16807
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steve.........any lap times
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:13 AM   #16808
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Default servo?

Hi all, new to this class and just gotten myself a CRC. I would like some suggestions on which mini servo to use. I am looking at the Hitec 225MG servo due to its attractive pricing. Any thoughts on this servo or any other recommendations?

Thanks.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:46 AM   #16809
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hey all,

i am new to 1/12 i just bought a rc12L4 it is awesome can anyone tell me where i can find basic set-up to work off and also what size do you run your tyres down to?? ive also been told there is rear bulkheads(if you call them that) that you can run smaller tyres on?
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:37 AM   #16810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel
Hi all, new to this class and just gotten myself a CRC. I would like some suggestions on which mini servo to use. I am looking at the Hitec 225MG servo due to its attractive pricing. Any thoughts on this servo or any other recommendations?

Thanks.
It would be best to look into the JR line or KO, Futuba then Airtronics. You could buy the Hitec, it'll work but you'll just end up replacing it with a higher quality servo later.

E
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:39 AM   #16811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by {VIC_RDX}
hey all,

i am new to 1/12 i just bought a rc12L4 it is awesome can anyone tell me where i can find basic set-up to work off and also what size do you run your tyres down to?? ive also been told there is rear bulkheads(if you call them that) that you can run smaller tyres on?
CRC and IRS (the only ones I can think of now) sell the lowered pods.

E
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:51 AM   #16812
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Default

I'll try and help a bit.

cyrrus-what kind of tips are you looking for? I just built the CRC 3.2 with abp chassis. I'll be happy to help in anyway. The L4 suspension has better uprights than the old L3. More consistent side to side and easier to adjust caster. But the aluminum uprights form CRC are dead balls on and bind free. I wouldnt worry about the stiffener unless your running in high bite.

Diesel-I have run these two servos in 12th scale and can recommend them both. JR3550 and the KO 949. The JR is non digital and the KO is.

{VIC_RDX}-carpet or asphalt? If carpet the set-up is easy. Let me know. As for tires, yes-IRS and CRC make lowered pod plates. IRS also makes lowered front arms that acheive the same thing. With this combo on my old L4 I could run 1.59" fronts and 1.62" rears and still make 3mm ride height.

Number ONE recommendtaion for all 12th scalers is to buy the IRS Axle height asjusters. Changing pills makes only a 0.5mm chnage in ride height!! Basically I set my car for 3.5 to 4mm for practice and I usually oly have to change to a 0.5mm lower pill for the third qual or Mains and my ride height only chnages maybe 0.5mm all day long. Thats IRS1167.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:12 AM   #16813
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Hi there Eric and Ray, thanks for pointing me right on the servos.

Are there any good foam bumpers out there made specially for the 12th scale? Something like those used for 10th scale? Just trying to play safe on the chassis in events of crashes hehe.
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:15 AM   #16814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
It really depends on your motor but, I would start somewhere around 45 on your roll out. That's what I ran today at Gilroy and it was pretty good!
Thanks Crashby. I'll see you all at Gilroy on friday night. I got the night off .........
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:15 AM   #16815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
steve.........any lap times
My fastest lap in stock was a 13.23. About half of the laps in the main were in the 13-second range. I was trying to do too many laps without lifting. I need to work on going to part throttle at some sections rather than just staying punched the whole lap. Letting off completely looses momentum and not lifting at all scrubs off too much speed, as you have to turn the wheel to much. It is a fine line.
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