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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-14-2006, 12:31 PM   #16786
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What would constitute a 12th Spring Car over a T-Plate or T-Plate over a Spring car for carpet? I'm not concerned about manufacturers at this point in time, but more about what one is more effective than the other and why.

Thanks
Fast Faisal
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Old 01-14-2006, 12:44 PM   #16787
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Default CRC 3.2r

Where can one find out about what are the good and bad about this car? Could not find a thread on it. I am thinking about getting one. Thanks
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:07 PM   #16788
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Default Novak Velociti 5.5

Hello,
Has anyone one used the Novak Velociti 5.5 in a 1/12th without the fan? I am having a hard time fitting my body on the car since the fan gets in the way. Or, do you guys know of a 1/2th body with wide center channel? That would allow to get the fan underneath the middle of the body.
Thanks for the help.
Matt
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:09 PM   #16789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcmike
Where can one find out about what are the good and bad about this car? Could not find a thread on it. I am thinking about getting one. Thanks
I don't think there is a seperate thread on the CRC car. It is a great car and runs really well on carpet. Here is a GREAT link to how to build, setup and run the CRC 3.2R http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
Hope that helps.
Matt
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:15 PM   #16790
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Slapmaster, did you get my PM?
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Old 01-14-2006, 02:09 PM   #16791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpetrich
Hello,
Has anyone one used the Novak Velociti 5.5 in a 1/12th without the fan? I am having a hard time fitting my body on the car since the fan gets in the way. Or, do you guys know of a 1/2th body with wide center channel? That would allow to get the fan underneath the middle of the body.Matt
I've got the Velociti 6.5 in my mod car and it runs fine without the fan...I can't imagine your 5.5 would cause the GTB to run THAT much hotter. You have to leave the heat sink on though--it's potted to the fets. Gave it a shot anyway...

My power leads back to the motor have been replaced with 16ga wire. I'm happy with the power lead and sensor lead routing as they don't impart any spring rate to the pod as it sits. The sensor lead is against the inside of the cockpit side window on my Speed 8 body where it bows up and over into the GTB. I suppose I COULD shorten the sensor bundle, but I'm not convinced it's causing a problem as-is and my understanding is that soldering those leads is a nightmare.

I DO need to re-arrange some gear to get the balance a bit closer having read Mr. Payne's piece(s). I've purchased the Hudy balancing tips and will get around to it one of these days.

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 01-14-2006, 03:13 PM   #16792
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HI Scottrik,
Thanks for the info. I am also running a CRC 3.2R. I have noticed that my main issue is that I am running the ABP chassis and with the batteries moved all the way up front, I lose a little room for the ESC. If I move the batteries to the middle position, I think I will have enough room to mount the ESC right next to the center shock mount. Right now, I am about 1/8 of in inch away and it looks like if I can get back that 1/8 of inch, the body should fit over the fan. Not a lot of room with that chassis.
Thanks,
Matt
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Old 01-14-2006, 06:18 PM   #16793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Faisal
What would constitute a 12th Spring Car over a T-Plate or T-Plate over a Spring car for carpet? I'm not concerned about manufacturers at this point in time, but more about what one is more effective than the other and why.

Thanks
Fast Faisal

A spring car is one that uses side springs to control its roll stiffeness (usually in combination with some sort of damper tubes or shocks for side dampening). A T-Bar car uses a piece of fiberglass (or graphite) to control its roll stiffeness. On a T-Bar car the thickness of the T-Plate determines it's stiffness (thinner = softer, thicker = stiffer). On a Spring car stiffer or softer springs determine the roll stiffeness.
It seems that every design has a weakness. These are two different design thoughts that both work well, sometimes one works a little better under a given situation than the other and vise versa.
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Old 01-14-2006, 10:31 PM   #16794
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I need 12l4 setup help. The car is good everywhere except off throttle. When I'm in traffic and must lift to race clean the car becomes nervous. I think nervous is the only way to explain it, as its not really oversteer. It just gets nervous off throttle. Is that the result of too much droop? I'm running 2mm rear pod droop. Here is my setup if that helps... the track is medium grip ozite, mixed high speed and technical.

Front;
.20 front springs
4 mm ride height in front
parma violet front tires trues to 1.76
o toe
1 degree camber
10 degree caster blocks

Rear;
parma pink tires trued to 1.90
4 mm ride height
axel spaced to 6 3/4 width

Center;
batteries foward
30 wt oil in shock
green spring
.063 T Plate no middle screw
AE black grease on top damper plate
4.5mm ride height (is this called chassis rake?)
2mm droop in rear pod

everything else;
parma speed 8 body

monster stock
F-Brush with hole
green springs on both sides
96 spur 30 pinion with a 1.90 tire

Thanks for any help. I think I could be quite a bit faster if it weren't so twitchy off throttle.

Last edited by JKA; 01-14-2006 at 11:28 PM. Reason: added missing info
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:06 PM   #16795
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Keith- caster and camber?
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:26 PM   #16796
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caster - 10 ( I had to put both white spacers behind the arm on one side and split on the other side to even out the caster though.)
Camber - 1

Sorry. lol
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:43 PM   #16797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKA
I need 12l4 setup help. The car is good everywhere except off throttle. When I'm in traffic and must lift to race clean the car becomes nervous. I think nervous is the only way to explain it, as its not really oversteer. It just gets nervous off throttle. Is that the result of too much droop? I'm running 2mm rear pod droop. Here is my setup if that helps... the track is medium grip ozite, mixed high speed and technical.

Front;
.20 front springs
4 mm ride height in front
parma violet front tires trues to 1.76
o toe
1 degree camber
10 degree caster blocks

Rear;
parma pink tires trued to 1.90
4 mm ride height
axel spaced to 6 3/4 width

Center;
batteries foward
30 wt oil in shock
green spring
.063 T Plate no middle screw
AE black grease on top damper plate
4.5mm ride height (is this called chassis rake?)
2mm droop in rear pod

everything else;
parma speed 8 body

monster stock
F-Brush with hole
green springs on both sides
96 spur 30 pinion with a 1.90 tire

Thanks for any help. I think I could be quite a bit faster if it weren't so twitchy off throttle.
use a stiffer center spring. start with silver, if it's not enough, go with blue. you will gain on power steering, while off power will decrease.

for the rest your setup looks OK, except for ride height. try to set front at 3.5, middle at approx 3.8 rear at 4.0 mm. use center spring tension and ride height adjusters front and rear to adjust.
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Old 01-15-2006, 12:29 AM   #16798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
use a stiffer center spring. start with silver, if it's not enough, go with blue. you will gain on power steering, while off power will decrease.
Thanks. I really don't want to gain on power steering though. And I don't really think its an off power oversteer situation. The car just gets nervous or unsettled. Any other ideas?
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Old 01-15-2006, 12:36 AM   #16799
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Try moving the batteries to the rear. That should keep it more stable. Purple front tires will take edginess out, as well.

How much of the front tire are you saucing?
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:24 AM   #16800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Try moving the batteries to the rear. That should keep it more stable. Purple front tires will take edginess out, as well. How much of the front tire are you saucing?
Thanks Brian. I'll try the battery suggestion. I'm saucing inside 1/3 front and of course full rear.
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