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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-19-2002, 09:00 AM   #1666
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rc nitro, abour the new car, if you are only looking at the CRC or the switchblade I would go with the switchblade if you can get parts for it. Otherwise look into the RC12L3 it is also a very good car and easier to get parts for than the Trinity. If you are going to race on asphault you might want to look into the new Yokomo, that car was designed to race on asphault.

My reasons for not getting the CRC is I have raced with it and it seems to tweek very easily, the tweek screws have backed out on me a couple times and thats not any fun when the car is changing the entire race and there in no consistency. The t-bar cars don't become tweeked nearly as easily.
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Old 10-19-2002, 04:30 PM   #1667
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Hello Fish,
If your looking for a car thats easy to set up,I think its the one you already have,the g3,is very easy to set up,has theres not that much you can change,the front end is already set up,I also have a RC12L3 and the front end is more tune able than the G3,so it helps if you know what your on with etc,Ive just come home from the U.K Nationals-Corally came 1st,i was sat next to a lad that was runing a g3 and it was exellent!Theres also a few diffrent chassis to fit the g3-
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Old 10-20-2002, 05:49 AM   #1668
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Different chassis to fit the G3? Hmm... what are they then? Okay, I've just installed my Futaba 1024 receiver and a LRP IPC pro sport(which is loaned from my friend). But I just can't decide what type of spur and pinion I should use. My mind is also fixed for a Kawada Stock 23t, anyone would like to help me then?
Well, I guess I will be entering a race that runs on carpet soon... Would definitely appreciate ya help guys!
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Old 10-20-2002, 12:46 PM   #1669
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Does anyone know the part # for the front steering blocks on the G2 (the ones that the front axle goes through)
I've seen a couple of different part numbers and don't know which one is right, are these parts on the G2 and G3 interchangable?
My 2nd hand G2 has loads of slop in the front (camber changes to -2 to +2 degrees just by wiggling it) and there are no instructions so I can't find the numbers for the replacements. You should see my front tires after a heat of racing at what is supposedly -1 degrees camber
Thanks
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Old 10-21-2002, 04:42 AM   #1670
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Avink1: Thanks for the info. I actually have a 12L3 right now. The car started out as a 12L3O with both chassis. The car was setup wrong, missing parts etc. Got hosed on this used buy. The frustration of having to repair most of this car generated this post. I have stripped the car down 100%, nothing together and starting fresh. Already had to add $30 in small parts and need another $15. Last night a friend asked if I was intrested at looking at his 12L, car has some mods done to it. Figure I will check this as the owner is known at the track and honest. I am racing carpet. Me and a bud are trying to start a 1/12 on-road class. We both race touring now. IF nothing else, I will buy this 12L for spare parts.
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Old 10-21-2002, 10:01 AM   #1671
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What's a good spring combo for my P2K with 6 cells, it is my first stock motor as I've only run mod in my other cars and I have no idea if the springs should be different when running 12th scale
Thanks
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Old 10-21-2002, 10:11 AM   #1672
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LouisB: Try Reedy 767 brushes and Trinity Red (+) and Green (-) For more torque slightly reduce the tension on the red spring. I do this on the dyno.
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Old 10-21-2002, 12:45 PM   #1673
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Thanks RC Nitro, I already have red and green springs, they were on the motor that came with the car I'll put some 767s on when my current brushes are worn out.
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Old 10-21-2002, 05:00 PM   #1674
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rc nitro, i would sitck with the RC12L3 its a good car. You said that you are just starting racing on carpet, my basic setup for ozite carpet is:

Front tires - Jaco Purple
Camber - 2 degrees
Caster - 4 degrees
.018 front springs
Center Shock - 30wt. AE oil with silver or blue spring
Stealth diff grease on both pads
.075 t-bar (thick one)
rear tires - Jaco Grey
Protoform Nissian P-35 Lightweight body
3mm ride height in the front and 3.5mm in the rear

*I use full compound on all my tires, you may want to start off with only half covered on the inside of the front tires

hope this helps you get going on the carpet.
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Old 10-21-2002, 05:53 PM   #1675
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Ok guys I have some questions about 12th scales.I have raced them before but not alot. So I want to get some things clear up before I get back to racing them. The car I have is a 12LW btw.

First whats a good tire size to start off at front and rear? How far can you go down to where the car will start handling funky?

Second Whats a good roll out for a pretty big track? (aka Stockton home of last years Nats) What about for a really tight techincal track like 70x30? I will be using a 13x3 and 3000 batts.

Third Ride height, I understand the inserts in the back. But in the front do u just use shims under the bottom a arm? Also in the back do u ever pre load the spring to adjust ride height like we do on sedans? Also how often do u guys actually worry about the ride height?

Fourth Traction compound. I will be mostly using TQ orange. How long before the race do I put it on.... then how soon do I take it off? What about Sun Tan lotation(same question above)?

Fifth-Bodies- Do light weight bodies really make a difference in handling? Also which one is a good neutral body?

Thanks to all.

TK
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Old 10-21-2002, 06:13 PM   #1676
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Motor question for 12th scale...

ok - a couple of questions... since I am new to 12th scale, and we are running 8 min - efficiency cleary has now become an issue - something I haven't really had to worry about with 6 cells in either offroad or TC...

I am running a GM3 right now, black spring on the pos, red on the neg, with 4499 brushes... first run - I dumped - my fault (itchy trigger finger and battery had peaked early) second through 4th run - the car was great, made a couple of spring changes on the chassis, and it kept getting better (Speedmerchant Rev. 3). Geared at 25/100 with 2.02 tires on the rear (yeah, I know they are tall... but I am being stingy on the funds for now)

The motor came off maybe a degree or two warmer than ambient temp!? is this normal?? run time was definately not an issue with stock and 3000's (charged at high amperage)

Track is a new one in Lexington KY, quite short - but fun layout.

Any suggestions on the motor setup???

Thanks in advance -

Out - Wilde
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Old 10-21-2002, 06:23 PM   #1677
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I think it's normal for a stock motor not to get hot. Mine don't and if I gear any higher I loose punch. I have been running green springs on both brushes.
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Old 10-21-2002, 07:11 PM   #1678
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Quote:
Originally posted by tufferwilde
Motor question for 12th scale...

ok - a couple of questions... since I am new to 12th scale, and we are running 8 min - efficiency cleary has now become an issue - something I haven't really had to worry about with 6 cells in either offroad or TC...

I am running a GM3 right now, black spring on the pos, red on the neg, with 4499 brushes... first run - I dumped - my fault (itchy trigger finger and battery had peaked early) second through 4th run - the car was great, made a couple of spring changes on the chassis, and it kept getting better (Speedmerchant Rev. 3). Geared at 25/100 with 2.02 tires on the rear (yeah, I know they are tall... but I am being stingy on the funds for now)

The motor came off maybe a degree or two warmer than ambient temp!? is this normal?? run time was definately not an issue with stock and 3000's (charged at high amperage)

Track is a new one in Lexington KY, quite short - but fun layout.

Any suggestions on the motor setup???

Thanks in advance -

Out - Wilde

What batt did you use. Most of the time with new racers to 12th have the bad habbit of grip it and rip it.

You need to be smooth on that triger. The smoother you are the more run time you get out of the car.

Most of the time you do not need to be on full doing the first part of the race.
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Old 10-22-2002, 03:06 AM   #1679
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Hi tufferwilde, welcome to 12th scale racing. You sound like you're in the ball park. With a 1.9 tire we usually gear 28-31/100. The motor should come off warm but not hot. Although the Reedy MVP runs hot no matter what you do. For the most part, we've found the Trinity Green 3 to be the quickest 12th stock motor. I race up at R/C Madness in CT. and BigBoysToys in MA. There is a really fast stock crowd around, so we do a lot of experimenting. Personally I like Reedy 767's and SpeedMerchant Speed Metal brushes with two greens, or a blue/green combo for springs. Taz is correct about not ripping on the throttle. 12th scale is all about being smooth and carrying your speed through the corners. With only 4.8 volts to power your car you have to be stingy with your trigger finger. A properly set-up 4 cell stock motor should draw aroung 6-7 amps at 3 volts under no load. Sometimes we'll put a vertical slot or a small hole in the brush to get amp draw down. You can make it draw more and you'll still make run time, but you won't be clicking off the fast laps at the 7 minute mark. Mark Adams pretty much dominated stock the last two 12th seasons. In every A main his car was the slowest out there the first 2 minutes and always the fastest by far the last 2. Your fast lap should only drop off 4-5 tenths from the beginning of the race to the end. Any more and your probably over geared or your motor is drawing to many amps. Hope this helps. Have fun.
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Old 10-22-2002, 04:56 AM   #1680
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Avink1: Thanks!! I just printed your setup. I am making an order now for the last of the small parts I need and will get a spring for the shock. I am running the 3 shock setup vs the damper plate, car was an LO. I have new diff rings, diff balls, .075 baralong with new purple/grey tires. I got the parma speed 8 as it was in stock. You like the P35 better than the speed 8?? Is there a differance in the 2. Oval guys are racing the state race at the track, so I will not get to run the 1/12 till next week.

tufferwide: black spring has the same tension as a red. Are you running this on 4 cell or 6? If 4 cell, that is to much spring tension. Try a green on the negitave side.
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