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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-08-2006, 09:06 PM   #16696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
That is not what he is saying at all. he is saying that one side of the turnbuckle is right hand and the other side is left hand. This way when you turn it it either shortens or lengthens the arm or whatever it is attached to.
i understand what he is saying. but just take your right turn buckle and flip and and see if you get one that is left hand thread and one that is right. The are the same thread, you just flip the tunbuckle over to get a left or right hand thread. the only reason you need to have one specifically made left or right handed is if the turn buckle is not symetric.

but the only reason I pointed that out was just incase someone had to replace a turn buckcle, if you flip it, it will be backwards. I build mine so that I can turn the turnbuckle forward to increase camber and back to decrease on both sides.
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:52 PM   #16697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
i understand what he is saying. but just take your right turn buckle and flip and and see if you get one that is left hand thread and one that is right. The are the same thread, you just flip the tunbuckle over to get a left or right hand thread. the only reason you need to have one specifically made left or right handed is if the turn buckle is not symetric.

but the only reason I pointed that out was just incase someone had to replace a turn buckcle, if you flip it, it will be backwards. I build mine so that I can turn the turnbuckle forward to increase camber and back to decrease on both sides.
The turnbuckles are right hand thread on one end and left hand on the other, just like steering tie rods.

Last edited by odpurple; 01-09-2006 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:25 PM   #16698
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Atta boy OD.
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:52 PM   #16699
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Anyone know where I can find a foam car stand for a 1/12th scale?
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:30 AM   #16700
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thanks guys for the input on the brushless system fitment cheers!
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:26 AM   #16701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Anyone know where I can find a foam car stand for a 1/12th scale?
i believe corally makes one. i use the losi mini-ts
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:36 AM   #16702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The turnbuckles are right hand thread on one side and left hand on the other, just like steering tie rods.
yeah right. Just do me a favor. Take any one of them and see which way the tread goes. and then turn it over.

WOW, I now have a right threaded turnbuckle. As I said, the only time you need to actually make a right hand thread\left hadn thread anything is if they are not symetic. and our steering links and turn buckles are symetic, so all you have to do is turn it over to work for the other side.

/////\\\\\ turned over \\\\\///// wow left hand and right hand thread. now if you are saying that each turnbuckle has a left hand and right hard thread on the same turnbuckle. then sorry, i miss understood.
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Last edited by theisgroup; 01-09-2006 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:37 AM   #16703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Anyone know where I can find a foam car stand for a 1/12th scale?
trinity also makes one. A couple of us are trying to get pdub to make one.
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:32 AM   #16704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
yeah right. Just do me a favor. Take any one of them and see which way the tread goes. and then turn it over.

WOW, I now have a right threaded turnbuckle. As I said, the only time you need to actually make a right hand thread\left hadn thread anything is if they are not symetic. and our steering links and turn buckles are symetic, so all you have to do is turn it over to work for the other side.

/////\\\\\ turned over \\\\\///// wow left hand and right hand thread. now if you are saying that each turnbuckle has a left hand and right hard thread on the same turnbuckle. then sorry, i miss understood.
The fact that the threads are "opposite" on either end is what distinguishes a turnbuckle from a piece of threaded rod. If the threads were the same over the length (as a piece of threaded rod), and assuming you had "flats" on your piece of threaded rod and that the ball ends remain attached to their ball studs, turning the rod either way would not affect the length at all. You would just be unscrewing the rod from one ball end while screwing it further into the other. The turnbuckle, with it's opposing threads (left on one end, right on the other) allows both ends to either screw further into our out of the ball ends simultaneously.

Remember how much fun it was to adjust toe , etc, in the good 'ol threaded rod days? Pop off a ball end and twist it further onto the threaded rod "tie rod". Then have to accept a compromise because you had to do full rotation intervals because the ball studs were both facing up or both facing down. Cars that had one up one down allowed half-turn "fine tuning". Nah...I'll take my turnbuckles, thank you.

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Old 01-09-2006, 11:06 AM   #16705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
yeah right. Just do me a favor. Take any one of them and see which way the tread goes. and then turn it over.

WOW, I now have a right threaded turnbuckle. As I said, the only time you need to actually make a right hand thread\left hadn thread anything is if they are not symetic. and our steering links and turn buckles are symetic, so all you have to do is turn it over to work for the other side.

/////\\\\\ turned over \\\\\///// wow left hand and right hand thread. now if you are saying that each turnbuckle has a left hand and right hard thread on the same turnbuckle. then sorry, i miss understood.
You did misunderstand. I should have said "end" and not "side". For the record, if you say "right threaded turnbuckle", you are saying it has right hand threads. If you say "right side turnbuckle" you are refering to the one on the right side of the car. wow.
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Old 01-09-2006, 01:19 PM   #16706
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Lightbulb New 1/12th scale body from PROTOform

I just wanted to give you guys the heads-up on a new "Speed 12B" on-road body. The body is a modified variant of the existing Speed 12, but this one's been changed to better suite the needs of those that run in STOCK, 19 TURN and naturally MASTERS class on carpet. It'll fit better over the front ends on cars that are out to the maximum width too. The body has a little less overall downform for added efficiency and should prove to be very fast on long straightaways. If a little downforce in the rear is needed, a pair of small (supplied) "gurney flaps" will bring up the rear bite with ease.

Having said all that, I'm also of the opinion that this body might just be the ticket in MODIFIED - in the hands of a pro-level driver. It's also sure to work in MODIfIED on an outdoor paved track. Samples of the Speed 12B #1610-21 have already been sent to ROAR for approval, and I have a photo shoot scheduled on friday. I'll have photos posted on monday.

See you all at the 'Birds! - Dale - PROTOform

Last edited by daleepp; 01-09-2006 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 01-09-2006, 01:46 PM   #16707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Try putting a small cavity on the F brushes.

-Korey
Are you puttingthe cavity in the middle? Can you alter the timing by trimming one side or the other?
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:35 PM   #16708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daleepp
I just wanted to give you guys the heads-up on a new "Speed 12B" on-road body. The body is a modified variant of the existing Speed 12, but this one's been changed to better suite the needs of those that run in STOCK, 19 TURN and naturally MASTERS class on carpet. It'll fit better over the front ends on cars that are out to the maximum width too. The body has a little less overall downform for added efficiency and should prove to be very fast on long straightaways. If a little downforce in the rear is needed, a pair of small (supplied) "gurney flaps" will bring up the rear bite with ease.

Having said all that, I'm also of the opinion that this body might just be the ticket in MODIFIED - in the hands if a pro-level driver. It's also sure to work in MODIfIED on an outdoor paved track. Samples of the Speed 12B #1610-21 have already been sent to ROAR for approval, and I have a photo shoot scheduled on friday. I'll have photos posted on monday.

See you all at the 'Birds! - Dale - PROTOform
Dale.....How soon can we see some pictures of this new body?

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:53 PM   #16709
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Default PROTOform SPEED 12B

Kevin;
like I said in the last line of my post, photo shoot friday - photos posted on monday.

Thanks for the interest - Dale
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:54 PM   #16710
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Man how did I miss that..... Thanks....I look forward to seeing what you came up with now.
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