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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-07-2006, 09:28 AM   #16666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ187RC
OK, Talked to Dave at IRS and here is what he suggested.
1. Take the O-ring and any washers or anythinglyou have on the lower spring/ disk out. The replace the Spring and the lower disk and then put the rear plate on.
2 Leave the O-ring in the top plate and put it on and then I put the washer I had on the bottom on the top, then put the spring on and then put the screw and washer back in that holds the top spring on the post back on.

Guess what, no cutting or anything and the tension is the same on both springs.
Our... you could thow away those discs and just use dampener tubes.
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Old 01-07-2006, 01:10 PM   #16667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Our... you could thow away those discs and just use dampener tubes.
Exactly.
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Old 01-07-2006, 05:17 PM   #16668
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Err need a carpet setup for t-fource red edition i think its a 3.2

Broke two t-bars on entering the straight, I found that if you laid the power down too hard the backend would kick and hit the board thus killing to t-bars the stardard Cf one which wasn't as good as the 0.63 which made the car corner much smoother. I was running it kit standard every where else except gray rears purple fronts and a crc courage shell. I am wondering if a should go softer on the rear spring and run heavier damper oil to slow the turn down a bit?

Also i need a basic way of setting the car up, I aready built the front end as mark payne said to but what else do i need to do to smooth the cornering out note i am only using the minimum amount of steering lock i can and still it to much steering.
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Old 01-07-2006, 05:21 PM   #16669
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ok,i see what you guys are saying now. I need to stop half reading posts.

i got a chance to run carpet today for the first time in about 15 or 16 years with my 1/12th.what a blast.i tq'ed but got peeled in the main.still had alot of fun.Adrian M was a missle today.he Won the main and qualified 2nd.all and all a real good day of racing.i wish they had more carpet races here in florida.
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Last edited by protc3; 01-08-2006 at 06:45 AM.
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Old 01-07-2006, 05:32 PM   #16670
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Od, or Crashby can you tell my where to find the wire on Castle Creations website? I cant find it under the products listing, and was told it was listed under some other section but I could not find it anywhere. Thanks in advance Bill.
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Old 01-07-2006, 06:15 PM   #16671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Err need a carpet setup for t-fource red edition i think its a 3.2

Broke two t-bars on entering the straight, I found that if you laid the power down too hard the backend would kick and hit the board thus killing to t-bars the stardard Cf one which wasn't as good as the 0.63 which made the car corner much smoother. I was running it kit standard every where else except gray rears purple fronts and a crc courage shell. I am wondering if a should go softer on the rear spring and run heavier damper oil to slow the turn down a bit?

Also i need a basic way of setting the car up, I aready built the front end as mark payne said to but what else do i need to do to smooth the cornering out note i am only using the minimum amount of steering lock i can and still it to much steering.
Hey there,

Basic set-up for me would be as follows (modified)

Front

0.20 front springs Camber set for even wear on the tires
10deg blocks
Parma Violets
Servo mounted FLAT
4mm ride height
Jack the gripper inside 1/4 only

Center

Ass. Silver spring
20wt oil
Spring length set for about 1.5mm of droop

Rear

Parma Pinks
Crc Thick goop (new extra heavy one)
NO side springs
0.63 t-bar
4mm < 4.25mm depending on cars turn in
Jack the gripper full

I use a bmi with damper tube set-up so basicly the same car. Seems to work OK , Hope it's of some use to you. Should have plenty of turning but remain stable
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:12 PM   #16672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-B
Od, or Crashby can you tell my where to find the wire on Castle Creations website? I cant find it under the products listing, and was told it was listed under some other section but I could not find it anywhere. Thanks in advance Bill.
Bill-
I just checked the website and it appears that the wire is no longer listed. They are not showing any products other than the motors and controllers, so maybe you should just call and ask for the 16 guage wire. Check the ordering link under the information tab for the number.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:32 PM   #16673
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Thanks OD I will give them a call Mon. Seeing Jim Roses car last week insipired me to REWIRE, nice job.
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Old 01-07-2006, 11:47 PM   #16674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-B
Thanks OD I will give them a call Mon. Seeing Jim Roses car last week insipired me to REWIRE, nice job.
Big Bill,

Hey, I thought I was your inspiration.

Oops! That was to get the Rev. 4...

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Old 01-08-2006, 06:42 AM   #16675
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hi guys

im about to get my 12th scale soon and while im gettng things i would like to get the novak brushless 5800 brushless system and was wondering if anyone has installed one in a 12th scale chassis as it seems like the motor end bell will not have enough clearance to fit in between the pod plates.

can someone please confirm my curiosty before i go order one

thanks and much appreciated
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:10 AM   #16676
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Not certain about the 5800 (though I think it would) but I've got a GTB/Velocity 6.5 in my Carpet Knife. You have to remove the top pod plate to get it in there because there isn't any taper to the endbell. That's why the brushless looks so much bigger--it's virtually the same length as the brushed motors but where the brushed motors endbells taper fairly abruptly to something under a third of the can diameter the brushless motors go straight back at full can diameter. The only thing that's a bit fussy is there is ONE (of six available) mounting "clock" positions that will work or the wire tabs interfere.

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Old 01-08-2006, 07:18 AM   #16677
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The SS5800 will fit just fine. I had the 5800 in a Carpet Knife. Like the above post stated, you need to take off the top piece of the pod to get the motor into the mount, but it works just fine.
Matt
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:18 AM   #16678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
hi guys

im about to get my 12th scale soon and while im gettng things i would like to get the novak brushless 5800 brushless system and was wondering if anyone has installed one in a 12th scale chassis as it seems like the motor end bell will not have enough clearance to fit in between the pod plates.

can someone please confirm my curiosty before i go order one

thanks and much appreciated
The SS5800 motor fits perfectly into a CK.1. The problems I had were the ESC (very big) and the wiring (touched the body causing some preload on the pod). Choosing the tallest body I could find solved both these problems.
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Old 01-08-2006, 08:36 AM   #16679
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If the 5800/SS wiring is like the Velocity/GTB wiring (I think it is) then whether the wiring touches the body or not is a routing issue. It does not on my installation. I also installed 16ga hi-flex wire to minimize any such problem should it occur (use 16ga on all my 1/12 cars). I wish I had the car here to take pics but I left it at the track. The top wiring runs just above the chassis brace just outboard of the lr body post for a straight run into the motor. The sensor bundle comes out near the pod bottom plate and runs forward to be zip-tied to the lower link (link articulates with the pod so it doesn't add "spring") then forward to the SC. The only body contact is where the sensor wire loops up a little higher than I'd like as it runs from the chassis up and over into the SC, and it doesn't create any spring effect there. I'm just not keen to shorten the bundle so I leave it.

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Old 01-08-2006, 08:55 AM   #16680
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JRX-S Bill, you are me inspiration to improve my driving skills after the spanking I got Friday at Hobbyworld!! There is now target on the rear of your car. lol Big Bill
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