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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-06-2006, 02:52 PM   #16651
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hi all im new to 1/12 and jumped in head first and bought a new 12l4 because that is about what everyone else at are track runs. but now that i have run it a while and have seen different 1/12 kits and conversions out there i wonder if a different one would suit my driving style better.

i have ran offroad nitro for about 5 years and have finished in the top 5 at some national races so i know that certain brands of truck and buggy suit more to my driving style.

so how do 1/12 with t bars compare with ones without, how about ones with damper tupes and one with plates. and i know its alot of info to but could someone give some info on what the adjustments do for your setup such as.
ride height
caster camber
stiffer softer shock
more angle on shock.
pod plate lubes
front susp. springs
ect. ect.
thanks for any info
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Old 01-06-2006, 02:57 PM   #16652
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go to the AE web site and start with Blackstocks setup - it is a good starting point for the 12L4

ps Mo Denton (a top driver-check results for the 2005 on roads in Cleveland)whipped everybody at Y-City on new years day and thats what he was runnin.........

Also check out Mike Lafaso's web site - he placed 4th in 12th mod with a 12l4 - I think he beat Blackstock and that's tuff!

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/index.html
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Old 01-06-2006, 02:59 PM   #16653
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There is a lot of discussion in this thread concerning those topics. Unfortunately, many people beleive it is nice to have all the topics stuffed into one big thread. From most responses, I gather this is generally due to laziness. People like to bookmark/subscribe to one thread and that's all they watch everday. The terrible side effect though is: it's nearly impossible to search through this monster thread and find all of the posts concerning a given topic. Plus there are multiple conversation topics simultaneously bouncing around all over the place.

The solution: Dedicated subforums for each class (like 12th scale) and have threads split up into different topics.

Last edited by James35; 01-06-2006 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 01-06-2006, 03:16 PM   #16654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
It is a switchblade for sure. It has a 6 cell chassis and the old switchblade rear end. He also states its a Trinity in the tech charts.
Wow, that's a huge surprise to me. I guess that just goes to show us all that there is no such need for new tech in 12th scale racing...

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Old 01-06-2006, 03:58 PM   #16655
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dlm where is y- city. mo also runs at tcrc in huntington.
i might like to check out this y-city.
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:04 PM   #16656
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http://www.ycityhobby.com/ alot of the fast guys from Columbus show up there..............
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:08 PM   #16657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
i always thought that the lower pods were just lower mount of the axels. it sounds like lowered pods is basically taking material off the bottom of the pod bulkheads. that seams wrong to me.

the axle is the only thing that should be lowered.the spacing between for each spring is important.there should only be maybe .010-.020 preload on each spring for both or there will be too much load on the washers.this will make it difficult to dampen the rear pod and have it work freely and consistant.i guess turning the standoffs down on the cross brace will make them uniform.
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Last edited by protc3; 01-06-2006 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:11 PM   #16658
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Y-City is in Zanesville Oh. We have been having a great 12th scale class this year. I hope you can make it down sometime. Yes Mo did win this past Sunday but a few of the regulars were not that far behind. It was great to see how we measured up to a driver with his experience and driving ability.


Ycityhobby.com

We are racing on both Saturday and Sunday, I think Sunday will be the bigger turnout this week.

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Old 01-06-2006, 04:21 PM   #16659
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Hey Craig, How's it going. Yeah i Forgot to say between you,Kevin,Jeff and Dusty there's alway a big can of whoop a** at Y-City DLM..........You guys are gettin' way fast!
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:42 PM   #16660
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how far is zanesville from portsmouth creig, i would like to come up sometime.
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Old 01-06-2006, 05:04 PM   #16661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the axle is the only thing that should be lowered.the spacing between for each spring is important.there should only be maybe .010-.020 preload on each spring for both or there will be too much load on the washers.this will make it difficult to dampen the rear pod and have it work freely and consistant.i guess turning the standoffs down on the cross brace will make them uniform but there will be quite a bit of difference in the spring tension.
Sorry, that is incorrect. On the IRS conversion the top plate sits lower than the stock one. If you lower the cross brace the same amount (by shortening the standoffs, as Doug said) it lowers the whole damper assembly, maintaining the damper spring length both top and bottom and does not alter the pre-load.
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Old 01-06-2006, 06:27 PM   #16662
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ok,maybe it came out the wrong way.yes,you cut the standoffs and it will lower the assembly and you will achieve what you are looking for BUT there is no need to lower the actual top plate drastically without supplying new standoffs is what i was getting at.if the pods are lowered by trimming the actual height and not the standoffs,then there will be way too much preload on the lower spring and screw the car up.
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Last edited by protc3; 01-06-2006 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 01-07-2006, 04:07 AM   #16663
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There is a need to lower the whole pod with some bodyshells as the standard L4 pod will touch them when the suspension is compressed.
When fitting the Yokomo rear pod (the post '04 worlds one not the YRX silver one), is lower in axle height and overall height, you buy a new post that has almost no flange at the bottom and is obvioulsy shorter to maintain the same pre load on both springs.
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Old 01-07-2006, 06:48 AM   #16664
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that is why I run a bmi. that was one of the first 4 posts out there and it was part of the kit and I knew jason would not make that same mistake. the irs 4 post is $50 and I still need a cut of tool and a good eye to make the 4 post rear end work?

if you are going to make new bulkhead and they top plate is to be lower, I think that standoffs should be part of the kit.
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Old 01-07-2006, 09:22 AM   #16665
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OK, Talked to Dave at IRS and here is what he suggested.
1. Take the O-ring and any washers or anythinglyou have on the lower spring/ disk out. The replace the Spring and the lower disk and then put the rear plate on.
2 Leave the O-ring in the top plate and put it on and then I put the washer I had on the bottom on the top, then put the spring on and then put the screw and washer back in that holds the top spring on the post back on.

Guess what, no cutting or anything and the tension is the same on both springs.
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