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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-06-2006, 07:09 AM   #16636
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J,
The pre load on the lower spring is due to the pod plates being .080" shorter in height than the other IRS pod plates.

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Old 01-06-2006, 07:35 AM   #16637
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IS there something i need to do to correct this or do I just put it together and run it like that?
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Old 01-06-2006, 07:47 AM   #16638
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To have the correct amount of preload on each spring, the chassis brace needs to be lowered the same amount. That means the 3 posts that support the brace will have to be shortened.

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Old 01-06-2006, 07:51 AM   #16639
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i always thought that the lower pods were just lower mount of the axels. it sounds like lowered pods is basically taking material off the bottom of the pod bulkheads. that seams wrong to me.
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:07 AM   #16640
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Hey guys I am having a problem with my 1/12th scale car and would very much appreciate some help. I run the carpet knife 3.2R and when I give my car full throttle from a dead stop the car is pulling to the right. I am new to carpet racing but not RC and can not figure out how to stop this. I have gone through the car and done every thing I could think of to fix this. I am running pretty much the stock setup. The car is perfectly static balanced and the tweak is right on the money. I have rebuilt the diff and have been on both sides of the fence with it, i.e. loose & tight. The tires are the exact same size from right to left. Is this something normal with the 1/12th scale cars? Or can this be dialed out. This is not very noticeable while racing except maybe coming out of a tight corner but it seems to me it shouldn’t be doing this at all. Please somebody set me straight!

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:16 AM   #16641
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first, you can not just jab the throttle on a 1/12 and think it will go straight. that is just the way it is.

2nd. you can get it close to tracking straight with smooth accel by adjusting the nut. This nut adjust tension on the diff. start loose and you will see the car track much straighter, but slips. Then just tighten until the car track to one side and back the nut off to the last position you had. hopefully the car will traack straight and your diff is not slipping. if it is, then you will need tp smooth the diff ring and rebuild the diff.
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:21 AM   #16642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Does anyone know what is happening with CEFX? I see David Spashett over here ran a Trinity switchblade in the last 1/12 national not his usual CEFX.
Are you sure it was an old Switchblade, or was it a CEFX with a Dieter/Trinity-style front end? I know Josh has been running his car with the Dieter front end on it, and is testing parts for the CEFX. I would assume David is doing the same. Personally, I can't wait until he releases the retro-fit kit. I am not a big fan of the stock CEFX front end.
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:33 AM   #16643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
i always thought that the lower pods were just lower mount of the axels. it sounds like lowered pods is basically taking material off the bottom of the pod bulkheads. that seams wrong to me.

The extra material is taken off the top. If you measure a set of each, the older style measure 1.343" and the new style measures 1.263" in height. The axle is in the same location on each set.

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Old 01-06-2006, 08:38 AM   #16644
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Thisgroup it sounds like you are saying this is not that uncommon with the 1/12 scale cars. I went to the track yesterday with fresh diff. I have always taken the time to build a very smooth diff. I ran a XXX-T for a couple of years and the diff was key in that truck and had to be perfect. I hone my rings until they are perfectly flat which make them very smooth. It might be I need to be a little more sensitive with the wrench while adjusting the diff. I will try as you say and see if it helps. Is there anything else I should look at?

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2006, 08:54 AM   #16645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Thisgroup it sounds like you are saying this is not that uncommon with the 1/12 scale cars. I went to the track yesterday with fresh diff. I have always taken the time to build a very smooth diff. I ran a XXX-T for a couple of years and the diff was key in that truck and had to be perfect. I hone my rings until they are perfectly flat which make them very smooth. It might be I need to be a little more sensitive with the wrench while adjusting the diff. I will try as you say and see if it helps. Is there anything else I should look at?

Thanks
Bump
that is all that I do to get it going straight. but you can just jam on the throttle and get it going straight. 1/12 is all about smooth. so smooth acceleration is the key. i actually run my diff just a little loose. it does not slip, but just barely.

some of the the gods in this thread may have more thoughts on this
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Old 01-06-2006, 09:53 AM   #16646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Hey guys I am having a problem with my 1/12th scale car and would very much appreciate some help. I run the carpet knife 3.2R and when I give my car full throttle from a dead stop the car is pulling to the right. I am new to carpet racing but not RC and can not figure out how to stop this. I have gone through the car and done every thing I could think of to fix this. I am running pretty much the stock setup. The car is perfectly static balanced and the tweak is right on the money. I have rebuilt the diff and have been on both sides of the fence with it, i.e. loose & tight. The tires are the exact same size from right to left. Is this something normal with the 1/12th scale cars? Or can this be dialed out. This is not very noticeable while racing except maybe coming out of a tight corner but it seems to me it shouldn’t be doing this at all. Please somebody set me straight!

Thanks
Bump

Are you running a Stock motor? If you are, and your track has decent traction, you should be able to CLAMP the throttle and the car should go straight. The only thing to check that you haven't mentioned is rear axle spacing. Scribe a line, front to rear on the rear pod plate on the chassis' centerline, then measure the distance between the centerline and the inside edge of each rear tire. If this is different, shim the axle on either side untill it's exactly the same.

One other thing to check is the front-end, the slightest binding in the front-end can cause issues like that as well.
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Old 01-06-2006, 10:38 AM   #16647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowell
The extra material is taken off the top. If you measure a set of each, the older style measure 1.343" and the new style measures 1.263" in height. The axle is in the same location on each set.

D.P.
Hey, Doug!

I just sent you a PM.

Thanks!

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Old 01-06-2006, 12:21 PM   #16648
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Default Jr servo - 3550 vs. 3650

I just bought a new servo to replace a very aged and sloppy Futuba 9601. I grabbed it at the LHS on an impulse thinking it was the newest JR digital mini. Its not. Its the older 3550 analog. Should I bother getting rid of it and go for the 3650 or is the 3550 pretty comparable?
I know the difference in specs, I'm just not sure how that will compare on the track.
I know that on my larger 3d airplanes, I can feel a significant difference between high end analogs and high end digitals, even with expo tuned to give the same off center feel. But I also know that application stresses the heck out of any servo.
Is an analog 38 ounces and .11 transit plenty for 12th, or does more make a significant difference?
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Old 01-06-2006, 12:34 PM   #16649
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I have both - but the fastest guy at our local track is using the 3550 and he is hard to beat.............
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Old 01-06-2006, 02:01 PM   #16650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Are you sure it was an old Switchblade, or was it a CEFX with a Dieter/Trinity-style front end? I know Josh has been running his car with the Dieter front end on it, and is testing parts for the CEFX. I would assume David is doing the same. Personally, I can't wait until he releases the retro-fit kit. I am not a big fan of the stock CEFX front end.
It is a switchblade for sure. It has a 6 cell chassis and the old switchblade rear end. He also states its a Trinity in the tech charts.
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