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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-16-2002, 03:43 PM   #1651
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exchange it 4 a 12M,,?,,Graphite,,?,,
If you can buy brand new,has i brought myself a 2nd hand 12M earlyer in the year & it was gash ,i got myself a new SP12M,& it was like driving a diffrent car,it was loads better,up to now ive only ever brought myself 2 brand new cars,but from now on im only going to buy brand new..its true what they say "you get what you pay for"
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Old 10-16-2002, 03:50 PM   #1652
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Quote:
Originally posted by fIShCaKe
Hi guys, I've just bought a Corally SP12G3 today, however, I know nuts about 1/12. Do give me some details so that I can kick start on this interesting scale...
Eg: Type of motors I should use, ESC, Pinion ratio, tires(I need them to run on carpet)....
Thanx!

For electronis ...smaller the better,
ESC: LRP Quantum Compitition or Novak GT7
Tires for Ozite carpet. Pink fronts, Grey rears.
TQ orange for traction compound.
gear ratio..depends on motor.
I run stock with 100/26 combo with a GM3.
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Old 10-16-2002, 04:34 PM   #1653
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Fish..Welcome to 1/12th, the fastest electrics available...

It depends on what gear you have already,if you have plenty of good 6-cells-try stock-theres not a lot of diffrence in speed and your garanteed to make the run time (8mins)-just gear up has much has you can-(66mm/rev)--if your able to get new 4-cells modified then go for that,has its slightly better at corners,being a bit lighter etc gear between say 33mm/rev to 38mm/rev,i use (64dp)spurs 96 to 104,pinions 19 to 25 (4 cell mod),i generally use 36mm/rev for a 12double,on carpet with 52mm tyres,the most commen used corally tyres for carpet is Gold rears-silver fronts or gold fronts but if you want more life out of your tyres try silver rears,also smaller & lighter the electrics the better..doese the G3 use tweak screws.?..oh,and use tyre addertives,sauce the rears and on the insides on the fronts,up to about 90% of the tyre, depending on how much grip you want..hope this helps
& !GOOD LUCK!

Check out BRM motors best stock motors in the U.K http://homepage.ntlworld.com/glyn.ward/
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Old 10-16-2002, 04:52 PM   #1654
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Wow, the smack is getting deep in here


Rob " I finished 2 places ahead of Skip" King
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Old 10-16-2002, 07:47 PM   #1655
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Did you SUCK that bad too?
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Old 10-17-2002, 07:13 PM   #1656
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Looking at my watch and I'm still 2 places ahead of you.
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Old 10-18-2002, 08:07 AM   #1657
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darnould: Thanks for posting the info tip on the settings. Still reading the past pages trying to catch up. I understand the running different or what you want. My TC is an X-Ray, everyone else runs a TC3.

I just got my 12L, got it used and it is a mess shims missing spacers missing, diff bad, bearings shot..... Just ordered another $30 in parts. Saw the post on using the .075 flex deck and got one last night at the LHS.
I have a question on spur's. What do you guys run for size? I will start in stock class, two of us trying to get things started for 1/12? Manual says the spur is 75 tooth 48, but it is 64 pitch and 88 tooth. LHS has 96 up in spurs. Also, what size should I run the tires?
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Old 10-18-2002, 08:54 AM   #1658
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I have been running a 96 spur, when the tires get really small it is almost as big as the tires.
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Old 10-18-2002, 08:56 AM   #1659
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Hey, thanks dudes.. Hey Stevie, insteresting explaination and cool set up ya have man! But I am having problems understanding what is rev and mm? Is there any other kind of simpler introduction available? hehehe...
I'm afraid my G3 does not come with a tweak screw, and by the way, what's the rear set up like eh? Stiff or soft rear? How's the dampening system gonna work?
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Old 10-18-2002, 11:15 AM   #1660
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fishcake, rev is one revolution of the tire. mm is milimeter. What stevie is telling you is the rollout that he uses for different motors. To figure out rollout take the diameter of the tire, in milimeters, multiply that by pi (3.1415...), then multiply that number by the pinion gear, and finally divide the answer by the spur gear. Example 52mm x pi x 26 / 100 = 42.47mm/rev.
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Old 10-18-2002, 10:45 PM   #1661
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RC Nitro- yeah running what you like instead of what everyone else does can be lonely sometimes but it's still the best way...have to be true to yourself.

Keep up the good work and hopefully all of the previous post you are reading from everyone is really helping you out.

Try running a 96 spur as suggested but i personally run 104 because i do mod. Tires size for the rear i start at 1.94 and go down to 1.84" which means that i must increase my pinion by a tooth once at 1.89" and again at 1.84" to keep the same rollout. i also have to adjust rear axle cams to keep the same rake from front to rear so i start off with number 1's and around 1.89" i go to number 4's. Generally the larger the tire the more grip it produces so you can use this as a tuning aid at big carpet races where the black groove gets laid down.

Kev- what time are we meeting at Venture on Sunday morning? Robk and i will be driving up there to meet you and ride with you from there seperately.
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Old 10-18-2002, 10:48 PM   #1662
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Kev- that didn't come out right. duhooo
what i was trying to say is that Robk and i will be driving seperately up to Venture to ride with you from there.
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Old 10-18-2002, 11:53 PM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally posted by Avink1
fishcake, rev is one revolution of the tire. mm is milimeter. What stevie is telling you is the rollout that he uses for different motors. To figure out rollout take the diameter of the tire, in milimeters, multiply that by pi (3.1415...), then multiply that number by the pinion gear, and finally divide the answer by the spur gear. Example 52mm x pi x 26 / 100 = 42.47mm/rev.
Arh-hah... Finally got it! Thanx Avink1! By the way, is RC12L3 a good choice of 1/12? Any comments about it eh?
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Old 10-19-2002, 07:44 AM   #1664
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newracer: Thanks! I will install the 96 spur I just bought.

darnould: I will give you all a laugh. The forum is ~ 53 pages yesterday am. I hit printable setup and list all 1656 posts. Then I hit print.... I ran my lazer at work out of paper twice I was in a meeting in my office at the time. My contractor started laughing the 2nd time...... I could not see the printer from where I was paper was starting to fall on the floor. 356 pages to print 53 forum pages. Guess I have a bit of reading to do

Thanks for the tire info, I will convert this to mm as that is what I am use to, started usnig rollout in 1/8 scale. Already made me a rollout chart for 88, 92, & 96 spurs Glad I order those adjusters! They did not come with what I got. On the rake, you lost me. My car is in pieces right now, I want to start from scratch as this car was abused, so I cannot look. On rake do you mean ride height? ie 3mm front 3.5 mm rear? 2nd question front tire size? My new ones are comming, order went the wrong place
Thanks for the great info. I am sharing this with my bud and cheif competiton, want to get the class running.

If I want to start with a new car, would you recomend the CRC or the switchblade?? We plan on running stock 4 cell. The pic I saw of the switch blade looks sweet.
John

Last edited by RC Nitro; 10-19-2002 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 10-19-2002, 08:47 AM   #1665
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fishcake, the RC12L3 is a very good choice for a 1/12 scale car. It is very easy to adjust and well designed and fast. If you are running it on carpet try to find a RC12LC chassis for it if you can, it ia a little thicker and has less flex than the L3 chassis. If you are running on asphault then use the stock chassis. Don't worry if you can't find a LC chassis because it isn't a must have thing to race on carpet but it helps.

If you are wondering what I am running for a car fight now it is an RC12LW chassis with the new style rear pod and t-bar, dynamic strut front suspension, CRC top plate (the one on the rear pod) and Trinity dampner tubes.
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