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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-30-2005, 11:10 AM   #16561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
OD...... I had a horrible night racing tonight and I need your help. My LHS will have six days to get these parts and I need your wisdom.

Tonight was our last race for points and I went way too hot into the first corner, completely blowing up the servo saver, a-arm, rc12l3 chassis man this is going to hurt the old pocket book.

considering the damage, would it be prudent to just upgrade to the L4 front end and chassis? I'm assuming the spare L3 parts I have will work with the L4. And if so, what do I need to get the new front end and chassis to adapt to my current L3.

I thought about the Rev4 front end but I have spare arms for the L3. So I'm not sure about going to a completely new front end. I would totally love to get a Rev4 but bicycle mechanics in Louisiana only make so much.

Man I'm down. I cost myself a 50$ gift certificate.
The race to the first corner is one of the reasons I quit racing the Radio Shack cars. Remember, you have 8 minutes to get to first. And 1/12th scale is gentlemen's racing, where everyone is polite and says please and thank you!

You might as well convert to the L4 chassis if you are racing on carpet. You will need the chassis (AE 4558) and the battery trays (AE 4563). You could change the bottom plate (4559) as well but the L3 one will work since it is the same thickness. The only different parts on the front suspension are the suspension mounts (the 0, 5, and 10 deg blocks, AE4561). I don't know if the other parts are from new molds or not, but every thing fits between L4 and L3. The front body mounts are different, the chassis is drilled for the 4/40 screws that hold them, you could drill and counter sink the chassis for the L3 mounts (8/32) or get the L4 mounts. You might want the chassis protectors (4560), the little plastic jobs that go under the front body mounts. There is also the front cross brace (4564), some use it, some don't. It can tweak the front of the chassis if the dimensions aren't perfect, so be careful.

I think that's everything, hopefully someone will correct me if I missed anything.

Here's to higher wages for bike mechanics in Louisiana!! --
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Old 12-30-2005, 12:04 PM   #16562
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[QUOTE=odpurple]The race to the first corner is one of the reasons I quit racing the Radio Shack cars. Remember, you have 8 minutes to get to first. And 1/12th scale is gentlemen's racing, where everyone is polite and says please and thank you!

You might as well convert to the L4 chassis

i did the same thing i killed the l3 chassis so i went to the l4
the l3 front end fits the only things you really need are the battery trays l4 chassis and front post
if you havent already i would go with the irs axel with the big diff rings
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:27 PM   #16563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The race to the first corner is one of the reasons I quit racing the Radio Shack cars. Remember, you have 8 minutes to get to first. And 1/12th scale is gentlemen's racing, where everyone is polite and says please and thank you!
Please may I pass you tomorrow? Pretty pleeeeeeeeeeeze...
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Old 12-31-2005, 02:58 AM   #16564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Please may I pass you tomorrow? Pretty pleeeeeeeeeeeze...
I'll be trying to pass anyone I can !!!!!!!!!! In the "B"main
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Old 12-31-2005, 03:01 AM   #16565
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Just a quick question...Can the front cross brace on a L4 cause the car to be hard to get correct tweek ???

Thanks,
Chris....
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Old 12-31-2005, 05:43 AM   #16566
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If it twist the chassis because it's not the correct lenth: yes. Lay the chassis on flat surface to check. File out the holes in the brace if neccessery, or toss it completely.
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Old 12-31-2005, 07:38 AM   #16567
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the biggest problem i found with running the cross brace is that if the lower suspension arms are not perfectly perpendicular to the chassis then the brace will not line up.i have machined the bottom of my lower arms where they mount to the chassis and had much better luck but its a pain to do this every time i change them.i found it just not to be worth it to run the brace.all the braces i have checked have all been exactly the same so i dont think there is a variance in the cross brace.have any of you guys had a cross brace fit good without any mods to the lower arms?
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Last edited by protc3; 12-31-2005 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:17 AM   #16568
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Thanks for the help guys. I look forward to seeing the difference between the L3 and L4.
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:41 AM   #16569
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I simply left the front brace out. Gives me an easy place to mount a club transponder. Doesn't seem to have any ill-effects on handling either.

I trained with Markus Mobers yesterday. Darn that guy is fast! I was surprised he only lapped me twice in 8 minutes. It felt worse!
I had a good look at his car. He runs a CRC T-fource with lowered radio plate, no Tbar brace, no center radio plate standoff and really small tires.
Time to start tinkering!
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:46 AM   #16570
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hey guys need some help wit some gearing im on a 100t and dont kno what pion to use
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:16 AM   #16571
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what motor are you running?
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:26 AM   #16572
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stock
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:51 AM   #16573
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also,what size rear tires are you running?
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Old 12-31-2005, 10:07 AM   #16574
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And maybe what batteries (and are they in good condition)he's using might also be helpful , along with is it a long or short track, carpet or Tarmac ??
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Old 12-31-2005, 10:09 AM   #16575
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i for got what size the tyers are its a new carpit track new lay out for the novak so no ones been on it and there good huricane batts nice rip to them
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