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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-29-2005, 10:11 AM   #16531
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Thanks. Would you happen to have a part number or link to it on the crc website? I haven't been able to find it.

Andy

Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman996
I think that CRC has a kit - it even comes in blue to match your 12L4.
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:18 AM   #16532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adavid
Thanks. Would you happen to have a part number or link to it on the crc website? I haven't been able to find it.

Andy
Here is the hot setup!

http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html

Check out part number - IRS1162
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:22 AM   #16533
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how do u guys like the crc pro cuts tires
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:29 AM   #16534
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The picture for IRS1162 only shows the side pod plates and a top deck. Are the damper tubes and other hardware included or is that something I need to buy separately? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Here is the hot setup!

http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html

Check out part number - IRS1162
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:58 AM   #16535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adavid
The picture for IRS1162 only shows the side pod plates and a top deck. Are the damper tubes and other hardware included or is that something I need to buy separately? Thanks.
The IRS pod conversion doesn't come with any tubes or a cross brace. The only complete conversion kit for tubes that I have seen is the CRC #1328 Uni-Tune Suspension kit. It has tubes, top plate, cross brace and all the hardware to convert the car to side springs (most people don't use the side springs)
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:09 AM   #16536
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Cool. Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The IRS pod conversion doesn't come with any tubes or a cross brace. The only complete conversion kit for tubes that I have seen is the CRC #1328 Uni-Tune Suspension kit. It has tubes, top plate, cross brace and all the hardware to convert the car to side springs (most people don't use the side springs)
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:32 AM   #16537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattman
how do u guys like the crc pro cuts tires
http://rctech.net/forum/showpost.php...ostcount=15882
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:04 PM   #16538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adavid
Hi,

What brand of parts and/or conversion kits do people normally use to fit damper tubes on a 12L4? Thanks.

Andy

the BMI conversion comes with the option of running damper plates or the tubes.the conversion comes with the chassis,body mount cross brace,aluminum lowered pod plates,lower rear pod plate,upper pod plate for damper tubes,upper pod plate for damper washers,aluminum damper post with center locator pin and mounted with 2 screws instead of 1,springs for damper washers,aluminum standoffs,and all necesary hardware.we are working on making a real nice set of damper tubes and should have them available soon.it will be right after we release our 1/12th car.
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:15 PM   #16539
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Thanks for the info. That's definitely a lot of tuning options.

Andy


Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the BMI conversion comes with the option of running damper plates or the tubes.the conversion comes with the chassis,body mount cross brace,aluminum lowered pod plates,lower rear pod plate,upper pod plate for damper tubes,upper pod plate for damper washers,aluminum damper post with center locator pin and mounted with 2 screws instead of 1,springs for damper washers,aluminum standoffs,and all necesary hardware.we are working on making a real nice set of damper tubes and should have them available soon.it will be right after we release our 1/12th car.
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:51 PM   #16540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
The steering turnbuckles level should be a good starting point. If you start changing that, you enter the difficult world of ackerman settings.
In a nutshell: ackerman defines if your car generates more toe-in or toe-out when turning the wheels. Max efficienvy should be that your car doesn't generate any toe-in or toe-out when turning.
This setting is mainlly controlled with the position of servo and by placing shimms under ballstuds etc. This is generally something I don't want to mess with too much. I let the boys who are designing these cars figure out the optimum setting!

Another thing that's influenced by placing shimms under the ballstuds is bump-steer. Again in a nutshell: it's how the steering angle of your car changes as the suspension is compressed.

As general advice: mount your servo the way it's described in the manual (same size servo saver, servo position etc.), than you're safe. There's already too much things to adjust on these cars. Just make sure the steering links can move freely without touching any of the suspension parts in any position.
I am getting a little confused on how the angle of the linkage rods can affect the Ackerman setting. Since the steering arm rotates around a fixed point (the spindle) how does the angle of the linkage rod affect anything? It seems to me that regardless of the angle of force being applied to the ball stud, there would be no effect to the steering arm. I am not disagreeing with your post , I would just like to understand it better.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-29-2005, 01:33 PM   #16541
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the angle of the turnbuckle from front to rear effects ackerman,vertically effects bumpsteer.i normally set my bumpsteer to none or a little bump toe out.if you are running the servo on the aluminum AE angled mounts,i run the turnbuckles at the same angle as the upper arm.this gives me no bumpsteer.i run my angle of the turnbuckle dead straight looking at the car from the top.
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Old 12-29-2005, 02:52 PM   #16542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
thanks dude
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Old 12-29-2005, 03:31 PM   #16543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdav
My 3.2r is a few months old but came with the spring balls and I assume taller standoffs. Are the new lower standoffs a new part# or is it a running change?
No there is a part number, the original are very skinny and the new shorter ones are fat and hour glass shaped with both ends slightly milled down so that they are chromed. There are only two, the skinny taller ones and the fater hour glass shaped shorter ones. If you don't have the fater short ones, I'll call and get a part number for you. If I remember correctly my kit did come with the balls, I just took them out.
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Old 12-29-2005, 03:41 PM   #16544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darnold
Pulfinator = Mike Pulfer? If so just wanted to congradulate you on your Cleveland Stock 12th scale win this year. Merry CHRISTmas and a Happy New Year to you Mike and your family, please tell your dad i said hello...(i guess the "lil" mike can finally die off.. ...ah memories from the four years i raced in the middle 80's, man that was a long time ago... )
Thanks Mr. Arnold. I appreciate that. My Dad also says hello. Hope you also have a HAPPY NEW YEAR as well.
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Old 12-29-2005, 03:46 PM   #16545
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hey guys i race 10 scale alot and i just picked up a 12scale and when i go to sodder my wire from my esc to the neg battrie side it some how has power wit the esc off. i was just wondering whats is the problem ?? is there a spical wire i need to use to conect the 2 bats to the other 2 ????
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