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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-28-2005, 05:16 PM   #16516
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Default 3.2r

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulfinator
In the 3.2R there aren't or doesn't need any balls under the springs. The rear cross brace was lowered. What they did was eliminate the balls and put on a shorter stand off, then a longer set screw was added to get the spring to reach the chassie. You can run balls under the springs if you choose, there is room for a shorter set screw and the ball. I have had all versions of the carpet knife from the original to now and have been very a custom to putting them in. At Cleveland this year I took them out and really liked the car.

My 3.2r is a few months old but came with the spring balls and I assume taller standoffs. Are the new lower standoffs a new part# or is it a running change?
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:20 PM   #16517
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With my servo on mounts (not flat on the chassis) the steering links point down toward the center. Should they be level? It's a carpet knife with the factory servo mounts, airtronics 94145, and small servo saver.
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:06 PM   #16518
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Thanks Kev, It'd be great if you could check out the turnbuckles.When I move the steering from left to right (or right to left) there seems to be some binding due to the angle of the turnbuckles.It also seems to cause a lot of play in the servo saver.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
Guy....The links should be level or just a little bit above level at the servo saver. You might want to think about getting another servo other then the HiTec....for some reason these dont center that well and or hold center....although it was a while ago when I used one. If yours is newer it might not be that bad but just keep that in mind. If you need any help with the front end of the car come see me as I had one of these for a while and I will show you some easy way to check things out.
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:13 PM   #16519
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Outlander, mine wanted to do the same thing with my tires trued to "club racing" size. The reason is the front suspension is shimmed up very high (relatively speaking) but keep in mind that the servo doesn't move when you raise the blocks to lower the ride height, so many times you run into the turnbuckkles binding on the flat spot of the front arms. I simply filed that flat spot a lilttle lower on mine to get rid of the bind.

If we were fast as Kevin then we wouldn't have to worry about running tall tires at the club races cause they would just send us more....LOL
J/K Kevin-
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:28 PM   #16520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlandr91
Thanks Kev, It'd be great if you could check out the turnbuckles.When I move the steering from left to right (or right to left) there seems to be some binding due to the angle of the turnbuckles.It also seems to cause a lot of play in the servo saver.
No problem....If you are out at IRP on Monday I will take a look at it for you then. If there is play in the servo saver you might just need a new one. I have had some that were brand new had a lot of play in them, so that might be something to look into aswell.


Jason....yeah as fast as me... you would be amazed at how tall I start my tires for club racing....hehehe.
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Old 12-28-2005, 11:22 PM   #16521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterhenderson
Bob,

Optinum size-front 1.65" rear 1.74", that is what I ran at indoor champs. As for throw away size, you get @3 runs at that size.
For club racing I run @ 1.69 fronts and 1.78 rears, and they would last for @ 2 weeks of club racing.


Walter
Thanks Walt
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Old 12-28-2005, 11:22 PM   #16522
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Guys out there running the T-Fource-
Are you running the stock T-bar or switching over to the AE .063 one? Any particulars if you have?
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:25 AM   #16523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Guys out there running the T-Fource-
Are you running the stock T-bar or switching over to the AE .063 one? Any particulars if you have?
Who's going to have their t-force out on the track first JB? You, I'm taking my sweet time since the sedan is still my main focus.

Sanding and glueing all the pieces tonight.
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Old 12-29-2005, 12:29 AM   #16524
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I just got done sanding tonight. I'm in NOOO big hurry. My t-fource won't probably be ready for a couple of weeks. My Yoke is so strong right now so I see no need to rush it.
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Old 12-29-2005, 05:20 AM   #16525
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hey guys

just wanted to say thanks to all who have helped me with questions
I just have a few brief ones left now

what are Pro cut tyres? are these just a brand? or tyres that have been trued down to race conditions?

Has anyone brought donuts and reglued them onto their existing rims that have been cleaned up throughly with sucessful results? or do you guys just buy new wheels and foams already mounted every time?

Why do you guys run 64 pitch and not 48 pitch?

whats the best body for asphalt? that is low traction and techincial

Thanks in advance guys! sorry for the nonsense!
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:22 AM   #16526
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pro cuts are crc tires cut down to race size. save your truer on the first cut. lol

64 pitch give you a little bit more control of roll outs.
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:23 AM   #16527
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Well I have never raced 1/12th on asphalt do I am a learner here also.

But what I do know.... is that in the UK we race on what is regarded as low traction surfaces as we are banned from using really aggressive additives.

So the universal (well 80%) body of choice in the UK is the Parma Zytek. I then have the CRC body on call for when I need more steering.

But I would wait for the real asphalt experts to respond!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
hey guys

whats the best body for asphalt? that is low traction and techincial
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:34 AM   #16528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
hey guys

just wanted to say thanks to all who have helped me with questions
I just have a few brief ones left now

what are Pro cut tyres? are these just a brand? or tyres that have been trued down to race conditions?

Has anyone brought donuts and reglued them onto their existing rims that have been cleaned up throughly with sucessful results? or do you guys just buy new wheels and foams already mounted every time?

Why do you guys run 64 pitch and not 48 pitch?

whats the best body for asphalt? that is low traction and techincial

Thanks in advance guys! sorry for the nonsense!
Reglue tires: that's what I mostly do. When I glue them myself they don't come off that easily. Saves me a few bucks also. You do need acces to a tire truer off course!

I run 48 pitch. 64 Pitch is more efficient and allows finer adjustment in rollout. It's also more fragile, so 48pitch is no bad choice for a not-so-clean outdoor track.

Another body that works on low traction surfaces is Trinity's Lola T310. Either you think it's beatiful, or totally hideous (i still haven't figured it out for myself ). Anyway it has serious traction. In lightweight it's somewhat fragile though.
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:39 AM   #16529
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Default Damper tubes for a 12L4

Hi,

What brand of parts and/or conversion kits do people normally use to fit damper tubes on a 12L4? Thanks.

Andy
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Old 12-29-2005, 10:02 AM   #16530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adavid
Hi,

What brand of parts and/or conversion kits do people normally use to fit damper tubes on a 12L4? Thanks.

Andy
I think that CRC has a kit - it even comes in blue to match your 12L4.
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