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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-26-2005, 05:03 PM   #16486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlandr91
Hi Guys, I'm new to 1/12 scale,before I jump in with both feet I bought a Reflex12--brand new for $50.Now I'm finding no info on the car.I went on Trinity's website and they don't even mention the car.My question is what is wrong with this car? Why don't they support it?

they have a new car now (black widow). the reflex is good car....but parts are scarce. contact trinity direct to see what they have left.
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Old 12-26-2005, 07:44 PM   #16487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlandr91
Hi Guys, I'm new to 1/12 scale,before I jump in with both feet I bought a Reflex12--brand new for $50.Now I'm finding no info on the car.I went on Trinity's website and they don't even mention the car.My question is what is wrong with this car? Why don't they support it?
Trinity parts support has always been lackluster. Trinity stuff is everywhere but, the parts are impossible to find. It took me three months of back order to get damper tubes for the switchblade. When they finally showed, I had already switched to a different car.
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Old 12-26-2005, 07:58 PM   #16488
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It seems you're right, as near as I can see the Reflex12 was released in 2004? Here we are a year later and parts availability is nil! Well, like I said, this is just a "starter" car, If I like racing 1/12 I'll buy a better car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX
Trinity parts support has always been lackluster. Trinity stuff is everywhere but, the parts are impossible to find. It took me three months of back order to get damper tubes for the switchblade. When they finally showed, I had already switched to a different car.
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:09 AM   #16489
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Welcome to the world of 1/12th scale racing!
The Trinity reflex car can suit all your needs. Take your time building it, and make really really sure the front end doesn't bind in any place. You'll need to ream out some parts for that. The upper and lower arm balls and the steering blocks need to be checked for binding. Find the sweet spot between play and binding. Double check that camber and caster setting are exactly the same left and right.
Another important note: make sure the rear pod and main chassis are at the same height when the car is ready to run (with electronics and batteries installed). i.e. make sure the rear pod doesn't "hang low" or is jacked up by the center shock.
Switch the tires left and right every other run.
Stiffen the front tires sidewalls with CA, otherwise your car will easily traction roll.
Just make sure you can get the most of this car before moving on to another. You'll probably find out that you don't even need another car to run at the front of the pack. The Reflex did win some major races when it was just released and Trinity was still suporting it at their best.
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:22 PM   #16490
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Hi

Have just updated www.12thrc.com with photos and instructions on the prevention and repair of rear tyre chunking.

Hope you find this helpful

Regards

Mark
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:41 PM   #16491
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Default 1/12 tips

Thanks Mark. Outstanding work.

I have a question for you. When attaching the football(3.2R) I get a tweak. I followed the directions but would get a tweak everytime. My tweak as viewed from the rear looked like a smiley face. Both outside rear edges would raise up. I nailed it down to the football screws that were not perpendicular to the chassis. Do you use the stock hardware or have you had this problem before? Do you use tape to hold the batts in?
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Old 12-27-2005, 01:35 PM   #16492
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Tom,

The O ring used for the battery hold down on the CK will cause the chasis to curl up the way you describe. Never store the car with the O ring installed or it will warp the chasis.

I always ran my car using the O ring but I never went to Marks level of checking for tweek so I may introduce some if used.

Greg
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Old 12-27-2005, 01:35 PM   #16493
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Whats a good starting point for tires when club racing on carpet?
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Old 12-27-2005, 02:01 PM   #16494
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Default tires

How about 1.90 rear and 1.80 front. I usually go down to 1.85 rear and 1.75 front. Smaller to a point will be faster.
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:02 PM   #16495
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Hi Tom

I am not sure what your tweak is. Does the centre pivot (the football) assembly drop onto the chassis bolts without interfearence? Why are the chassis bolts not perpendicular to the chassis?

In answer to the battery tape question ... in the "Total Tweak Guide" at www.12thrc.com, I explain that I do NOT use the CRC rubber O ring to hold the batteries in. I use battery tape.

So I kind of agree with Greg. I am suspect of the O ring. I have no direct proof but last year I had a lot of tweak problems which made me REALLY think about it. A lot of what you read on www.12thrc.com comes from my tweak paranoia. I now have NO tweak issues but I realise some may think I am a little "over the top". So be it.

Cheers

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdav
Thanks Mark. Outstanding work.

I have a question for you. When attaching the football(3.2R) I get a tweak. I followed the directions but would get a tweak everytime. My tweak as viewed from the rear looked like a smiley face. Both outside rear edges would raise up. I nailed it down to the football screws that were not perpendicular to the chassis. Do you use the stock hardware or have you had this problem before? Do you use tape to hold the batts in?
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:07 PM   #16496
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Hey Mark-
Is the info presented for the 3.2R good for the T-Fource I'm building?
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:24 PM   #16497
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Hi Jaybee

What I know, I know well. I think about stuff and come to conclusions. I change my mind when someone explains where I am wrong. But.....

I am in my 2nd year of 1/12th and I have only run the CK 3.2R. I have never run a T Bar car... so you see I have no insight.

But.. all the front end build info is the same. Some of the tweak principles can be applied.

Hope this helps

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey Mark-
Is the info presented for the 3.2R good for the T-Fource I'm building?
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:19 PM   #16498
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Mark Payne, I take offense of your web site. If I make a sandwich every time I fix chunked tires.....I won't fit on the drivers stand!

Seriously your site is the best for explaining 1/12 scale set up and repair I have ever seen. Thanks for your effort.
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:59 PM   #16499
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LOL

The BEST instructions tell you to eat, etc, so Mark is right up there. The 1/32 scale racing kits MRRC did a few years ago (from Mark's neighbors on the Jersey Isles) told you to sit down with a large glass of milk and a plate full of cookies and RTFM. The idea was not to rush what shouldn't be rushed.

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Old 12-27-2005, 07:22 PM   #16500
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Thanks for the info! I have one question.When looking at the front of the car, the steering turnbuckles are level, I think they should be on a slight downward angle where they connect to the servo.I'm using a Hitec HS225MG servo and a small servo saver.I'm thinking of putting a small washer under the ballstud to raise the outside a bit.What do you think?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
Welcome to the world of 1/12th scale racing!
The Trinity reflex car can suit all your needs. Take your time building it, and make really really sure the front end doesn't bind in any place. You'll need to ream out some parts for that. The upper and lower arm balls and the steering blocks need to be checked for binding. Find the sweet spot between play and binding. Double check that camber and caster setting are exactly the same left and right.
Another important note: make sure the rear pod and main chassis are at the same height when the car is ready to run (with electronics and batteries installed). i.e. make sure the rear pod doesn't "hang low" or is jacked up by the center shock.
Switch the tires left and right every other run.
Stiffen the front tires sidewalls with CA, otherwise your car will easily traction roll.
Just make sure you can get the most of this car before moving on to another. You'll probably find out that you don't even need another car to run at the front of the pack. The Reflex did win some major races when it was just released and Trinity was still suporting it at their best.
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