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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-20-2005, 08:26 PM   #16396
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wow thanks alot for showing me that link.....helped me alot

thanks

Mike
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Old 12-20-2005, 09:18 PM   #16397
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Rev4-Bill (aka JRXS-Bill) are you still running the sedan or just the 12th? Thats my problem, I try to run both and cant do all that well when I run both. Hope to make it to Stockton soon, Happy Holidays .
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Old 12-21-2005, 12:45 AM   #16398
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Hi Mike

I will go on and start making handling setup notes as well as the build orinenatated stuff. I am out of time for the site now and need to have a break from it!

In the mean time, I would start with the setup below... however remember that in the UK we race with non smelly additive and our grip levels are slightly lower than yours I think. You may want to go a little stiffer in the pod area.

Front tyre: CRC purple at 45mm max, CRC Magenta if you need more turning but I would advise 43mm max on Magenta.

Rear tyre: CRC Gray at 50mm max

Damper lube: CRC Red.. the ligther one

White side spring .. red for more steering
0.020in Front spring
10 degree reactive castor block .. 5 degree for less agressive steer

No pod rise, 35 weight in the shock and the Olive Green spring

Yep... thats about it

Cheers

Mark


Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
ok i just got into 12 scale racing...i have a CRC 3.2R bloody knife....have no clue with what to start my setup with......i actually know the front and rear ride height procedures but nothign eles...springs...front and side...damper tube lube weight???l......wat else i dont no can you guys help me out

thanks

Mike
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Old 12-21-2005, 01:22 AM   #16399
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Great job on the web site Mark! I appreciate it greatly. It helped to stimulate some thoughts.

If I can offer a suggestion, if you take more pics in the future, watch what your camera is deciding to autofocus on. In many of your pics, the camera didn't focus on your intended target. Switch to manual focus if possible.

Keep up the good work!

Last edited by James35; 12-21-2005 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 12-21-2005, 02:48 AM   #16400
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Hi James,

My name is Mark!
Yes I agree about the camera shots. It has no manual focus! Arghh. It does have a macro setting which I have to use on most of the close work. I don't really have the right tool for this job to be honest with you.

Its an old Cannon Powershot S110, I can manual the white balance and the exposure but not the focus!

I will try for a better camera on the next post which will be about Wheel and Tyre choice and maintenance.

Cheers

Mark
Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
Great job on the web site Mike! I appreciate it greatly. It helped to stimulate some thoughts.

If I can offer a suggestion, if you take more pics in the future, watch what your camera is deciding to autofocus on. In many of your pics, the camera didn't focus on your intended target. Switch to manual focus if possible.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 12-21-2005, 11:30 AM   #16401
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Woops, sorry about that Mark. I updated the post I'm looking forward to any updates. I read every last word you put up. I've adjusted my lift to none, and can't wait to try it out at tonight's racing. Even though tonight's racing is oval, it may still help a little. My 12L4 car on the other hand, has a lot of lift. It goes way up and the shock does not stop any lift at all. I make that change soon too. It's easy to do.
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Old 12-21-2005, 12:31 PM   #16402
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thats awesome mark i run a AE and i can still use all that great info.
thanks for all the time you put into it for us
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Old 12-21-2005, 04:49 PM   #16403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Hi Mike

I will go on and start making handling setup notes as well as the build orinenatated stuff. I am out of time for the site now and need to have a break from it!

In the mean time, I would start with the setup below... however remember that in the UK we race with non smelly additive and our grip levels are slightly lower than yours I think. You may want to go a little stiffer in the pod area.

Front tyre: CRC purple at 45mm max, CRC Magenta if you need more turning but I would advise 43mm max on Magenta.

Rear tyre: CRC Gray at 50mm max

Damper lube: CRC Red.. the ligther one

White side spring .. red for more steering
0.020in Front spring
10 degree reactive castor block .. 5 degree for less agressive steer

No pod rise, 35 weight in the shock and the Olive Green spring

Yep... thats about it

Cheers

Mark

Hi Mark

what track conditions is this set up used for?
thx
Lou
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Old 12-21-2005, 09:05 PM   #16404
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What is no pod rise?
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Old 12-21-2005, 11:16 PM   #16405
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Traction!
Guys, another disappointing evening. I got a hold of a bottle of Niftech to try tonight at my local track. This track uses pretty much all TQ traction products, but the 12th scale cars are not doing so well. We have the latest rubber backed CRC Fast Track carpet that is now two months old. For an added fact, I took my temp gun to the carpet surface and found that it was 60F. I cleaned a set of Jaco purple front wraps and double pink rear wraps with a rag and motor spray to start off with a base line tire. I applied the Nifteck fully to the rears and 50% to the fronts. It evaporated quite quickly, like less then 5 minutes. So I re-applied the same amounts and again, it evaporated in about 5 minutes. The car ran quite well for the first 4 laps, then continued to push more with every lap. Finally at 3 minutes, it had rediculous push with a uncontrollabe oversteer "on throttle". The tires were a gooey mess up front and rather normal looking in the rears. I took the same car and battery back to the pits, cleaned the tires, and literally used WD-40 as traction sauce. Full rears and 50% fronts. Wipped them 10 minutes later and tossed the car back out there. It actualy lasted about 4 minutes before it was awful to drive.

Needless to say, I withdrew from the nights racing as did the entire feild of 12th scalers. Un able to complete a run due to uncontrollable traction conditions.

If I was new to 12th scale, I would have given up long ago. But I have about 20 years doing this and I have never seen this before.

I guess that I am asking if anyone out here races with other scales with multiple traction sauces being used, if you have found that magic bullet to cope with this?

Does anyone think that additional heat in the building and/or some box fans to circulate air after hours would help evaporate the TQ out of the carpet?
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Old 12-21-2005, 11:45 PM   #16406
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Have you tired the old method of sunblock to keep the traction longer?
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:11 AM   #16407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by look
Hi Mark

what track conditions is this set up used for?
thx
Lou
Well it pretty generic for the medium grip carpets we run on over here in the UK and has become my default starting point. We are doing 34ish laps in 8 mins with 19T and a couple more with mod on most tracks so that should help you guage the track size.

I did not mention that 80% of UK drivers use the Parma Zytek shell and that is important as we have found it offers the best handling on our tracks.

Also we use addatives like CS Grip or Jack the Gripper .. all non volitile types. "smelly additives" are banned in the UK for all classes at all levels.

Hope that helps

Mark
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:16 AM   #16408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
What is no pod rise?
Hi

This will help explain:
http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...g-and-pod.html

Pod rise = Pod lift = The amont the chassis is allowed to rise upwards beyond its static rest height. The limit in the movement is contrilled by the length of the shock.

Mark
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:33 AM   #16409
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I didnt know that US made CRC got its way to UK. where is the exact location of the track in Reading

how do you cope with the inconsistency & fragile nature of the 2 tweak ball cap stick, i 've forgotten its name
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:56 AM   #16410
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Hi HK

Most of the 1/12th cars we run in the UK are US made. Associated, CRC, CEFX etc... hmmm not even thought where Corrally is made. And yes, CRC is well established in the UK.

The closest track I can race 1/12th at is about 30 miles out of Reading. Most of my 1/12th racing is at our National series.

Are you refering to the tweak brace? Please have a look at www.12thrc.com read the "Total Tweak Guide" post for more info.

Cheers

Mark


Quote:
Originally Posted by HK
I didnt know that US made CRC got its way to UK. where is the exact location of the track in Reading

how do you cope with the inconsistency & fragile nature of the 2 tweak ball cap stick, i 've forgotten its name
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