R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-20-2005, 12:09 AM   #16381
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Crashby (or anyone in "Norcal" with a T-Force), Do you have a starting point setup for the Gilroy track with the T-Force (block front end)?
.020 fr spr
.075 t-bar 3 screws
5 deg reactive
max castor
red center spring
try purple / white to start with - pretty safe.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 12:10 AM   #16382
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by insideline
The solvent smell of Niftech is much worse than Paragon, I can't imagine banning Paragon for Niftech. Niftech evaporates so fast, it can't be good for the full 8 mins.
You obviously haven't tried it, you would be impressed.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 12:16 AM   #16383
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Bill,

I didn't find it any worse than TQ, I had the same issues there.

Chris
I was routinely wiping it off with paper towels. After reading the several posts, I doubt I will be doing that any more. Stuff worked well otherwise.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 12:20 AM   #16384
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
I was routinely wiping it off with paper towels. After reading the several posts, I doubt I will be doing that any more. Stuff worked well otherwise.

Bill,

I actually found wiping it off necesary, tamed out the first minute and improved consistancy for entire run to the point that i had identical handling from start to finish. I also sauced two or three times before the race and cleaned the tires with motor spray after each run.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 12:54 AM   #16385
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,207
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
We have been over this time and again. It not the winter green in Paragon that kills you it the fumes from the lacquer thinner make up most of the volume of liquid in the can.

Would it be safe to use Home Depot brand lacquer thinner instead of....?

How about suntan lotian? I see many people use that too.
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 02:43 AM   #16386
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hi guys

i have access to new CRC CKr2 kits does anyone know if these kits are suited to outdoor tracks ? i have been told by that these were run at the worlds by Marc Rheinard and Jilles Groskamp

kind regards
BT
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 06:44 AM   #16387
jas
Tech Apprentice
 
jas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 90
Default AE RC12L4

What you don't like about the RC12L4 when compared to others (CRC, Corally, Speedmerchant, etc.)?
The RC12L4 is pretty much the defacto choice in town, parts support is the main reason, I guess.
jas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 10:58 AM   #16388
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jas
What you don't like about the RC12L4 when compared to others (CRC, Corally, Speedmerchant, etc.)?
The RC12L4 is pretty much the defacto choice in town, parts support is the main reason, I guess.
If you've got AE parts support, you pretty much have parts support for every T-bar car. Since all the cars but the Corally and older Trinity cars use AE front-ends, and all the T-bar cars use AE t-bars, you could still run pretty much any of them, as those are really the only two items that break on the cars.

What we've found locally is that the L4 chassis tends to break around the battery tray area, and many people prefer tube dampeners over the disc system included in the L4.

I personally prefer link cars, as I feel they are more adjustable, and tend to be more "free" feeling on the track.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 12:01 PM   #16389
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Actually the recall that Paragon had back in 95 was because they didn't have child proof caps because of the methyl salicylate.

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml96/96025.html

But this is only bad in heavy heavy doses. here is some good reading for your perusal

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/Paragon.html

Thanks to Mike Lufaso
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 12:44 PM   #16390
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

So, how true is it that the worlds Paragon wells have dried up? Forget Iraq, bring on the hunt for more Paragon!

Is there another source for Paragon online? our local dealers seem to not be able to get any.
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 05:02 PM   #16391
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 117
Default More complete 1/12 Tips for you

Right... I got to where I wanted to go with the tips (for now):

My big mouth has said about 10% of what the voices in my head are saying but I cannot stand any more fiddling with cameras for a while.

So

The Complete Tweak Guide to the CRC CK 3.2R is now online with sad little videos and more pics etc.

www.12thrc.com now gets you straight in.

Cheers

Mark
Mark Payne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 05:24 PM   #16392
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,122
Trader Rating: 238 (100%+)
Default

Mark--that's brilliant!!

Thanks for going to all that effort.

Scottrik
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 06:46 PM   #16393
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 124
Default

Mark, thank you for the blog. The information you provided IS VERY helpful.
I really appreaciate the work you put into it.
Thanks,
Matt
mpetrich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 07:09 PM   #16394
Tech Fanatic
 
factory racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 949
Default

ok i just got into 12 scale racing...i have a CRC 3.2R bloody knife....have no clue with what to start my setup with......i actually know the front and rear ride height procedures but nothign eles...springs...front and side...damper tube lube weight???l......wat else i dont no can you guys help me out

thanks

Mike
factory racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2005, 07:44 PM   #16395
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
ok i just got into 12 scale racing...i have a CRC 3.2R bloody knife....have no clue with what to start my setup with......i actually know the front and rear ride height procedures but nothign eles...springs...front and side...damper tube lube weight???l......wat else i dont no can you guys help me out

thanks

Mike
Check out the link in Mark Payne's post a couple back. Very good site!! Even though his site is about CRC cars, most of what he says can be applied to all 1/12th cars.

Great effort Mark!!
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Bubonic-X
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:57 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0