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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-14-2002, 05:32 AM   #1621
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Quote:
Originally posted by Besercoe
PM me is you know where one is for sale at a reasonable price
I have a Corally SP12 G3....and you can't have it! LOL
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Old 10-14-2002, 08:40 AM   #1622
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Skip- Huh???? Were you talking to Kev?? I didn't get the "you know the drill" and "let's see if you can back up all of the BS"??? I'm assuming you were talking to Kev.

Johnny Socko- Thanks on the kingpin deal, how did i miss THAT? LOL!
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Old 10-14-2002, 02:21 PM   #1623
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Several racers have Carpet Knives at my local track. One of them noticed that if you put a straight edge on the rear of each tire, on the right side (pinion/spur side) the straight edge will be aligned with the front wheel but on the other side the edge is about 3-4mm away from the front tire. We checked 3 cars and they are alll the same. What could it be? My car has it too but drives great. I have an IRS axle with a clamping hub and no spacers on mine. The others have the kit axles, don't know if they have spacers or not. Maybe I have my clamping hub on wrong?
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Old 10-14-2002, 05:02 PM   #1624
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Dave......I think Skip has been spending too much time up in the land of cheese b/c I cant make heads or tales of what he said either. I think hes refering to you that they only race 12th scale stock....IE "you know the drill". And as far as backing up the BS do you want me to go out and get a 12th scale car so I can beat you in that class aswell? Im not sure who he ment backing up the BS for But what ever I will be going up to trackside this sunday so any smack talk can be done in person or over a burnt track pizza. ....See ya sunday Skipper doodle dee.

Captian Kaios out..........
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Old 10-14-2002, 05:05 PM   #1625
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Rcracer, you can get straight reamers at most better tool stores or from mcmaster carr online. What most people think of as a reamer is a tapered reamer that you use to put holes in bodies, etc. Or you can try polishing the kingpin like ausracer suggested too.

Newracer, You probably have your hub on backwards. The IRS hub has a "long" side and a "short" side. Put the hub on the axle with the short side in. This will move your left rear in enough so that your rear wheels are equal distance from center. Check your right side spacing too as most cars have a slightly wider rear track than front track ( this helps steering).
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Old 10-14-2002, 08:19 PM   #1626
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Ok, I'll have a look......
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Old 10-14-2002, 09:15 PM   #1627
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Kev- hey is RobK going with you? When ARE you going to get your 12th scale...oh wait i bet it's when i get my TC. LOL, LOL, LOL!!!! Hey by this summer i should have one or a 2wd off road car and we can run then. Of course i can also run one of your older Schumacher TC's if you want. Boy what a shameless plug for a TC that was. LOL, LOL, LOL, iiii can aredly i mean hardly type after that one. LOL!!!

NewRacer- in my opinion all 12th scales should have their rear track checked periodically to make sure they are the same on both sides like Johnny Socko said. What you do is take a ruler and place it in the middle of the two screws in the center of your chassis (ones for antenna and the other your mono-ball or in the case of a t-bar car the two pivot balls) and then make a mark at the back of your rear pod bottom plate. Now you have the actuall center line to measure from and you take a ruler or callipers and measure from the centerline both sides and shim to equall and max legal width accordingly. This will also help fix pulls to one side under accelleration. Also make sure you do what Socko told you to do with fliping the hub around.
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Old 10-14-2002, 09:26 PM   #1628
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I flipped the hub around and that seamed to fix it. I was trying to think of a way to measure it, how you said makes perfect sense. I'll measure it like that to check it more accuratly. Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-14-2002, 09:27 PM   #1629
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Tigger.....I dont know if Rob is going with me or not I have yet to talk to him this week. I have a 12th scale just dont race it localy to much but with the increase of cars at Scotty's I might race it more.....and with the smack Skiper talking too that might be more of an incentive.
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Old 10-15-2002, 01:14 AM   #1630
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My Yokomo YRX-12WE will be in my doorstep this Thursday!
I can't wait to build this thing! I will keep you guys posted on this car and how well it performs on the track!
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Old 10-15-2002, 01:39 AM   #1631
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I can tell you now it will be great!!
Got my Yokomo 12L3 2001 Special up and running (this and the YRX-12 are almost the same, just different carbon used), and it is awesome!!
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Old 10-15-2002, 01:42 AM   #1632
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Do you know where I could find setups for it or should I just set it up just like I would and AE 12L3?
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Old 10-15-2002, 01:54 AM   #1633
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At the moment I'm using the Kit setup, but it seems to respond to the same inputs as a 12L3, as it is one.....only it is 4-cell and 2mm longer...
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Old 10-15-2002, 11:45 AM   #1634
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has anyone used the yokomo1/12 scale body yet? How does it handle on carpet?
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Old 10-15-2002, 11:47 AM   #1635
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sigearhead- will you be running your yok sunday at ultra? ill be bringing out the rev.3
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