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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-15-2005, 09:19 AM   #16261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Looks good, I have a hell of a time getting the bodies to sit right. It is definatly not as easy as mounting a sedan body.
Here is a good tip for mounting bodies straight on your chassis.

Take an old body and keep adjusting the body mounting holes (making them bigger) on that body until the body sits in the exact position you want the body on the chassis. Then while holding the body in that perfect position, make marks on the body with a marking pen bisecting the body post, in both directions, fore and aft. Then cut away most of the body around the bottom so that when you set the old body, with the marks on it, on top of your new body, you can mark the new body where the holes should be for the perfect alignment. Then when the new body with the perfect holes becomes no longer useable, reuse that body repeatedly for perfect hole marking on new bodies.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:13 AM   #16262
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That is a good idea, l think i may try that. Thanks.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:43 AM   #16263
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For those of you from the midwest that will be heading to the Birds this year the January Jam at TWOH is a must. Below are the details and a link to the web site. The track is considered by the mod oval guys to be THE SMOOTHEST flat track around with one of the nicest facilities. There comments about the recently held Toys for Tots race is at http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showth...7&page=1&pp=15



Where: World of Hobbies and Games (http://www.theworldofhobbies.com/)
Cincinnati, Ohio
When: January 27 Friday -- Practice - Open 9:00 till 9:00
January 28 Saturday -- Racing - Open 7:00
Price: $20.00 first entry $10.00 second

Prizes: Minimum of 12 entries pays back $100 first in "A" $50.00 second in "A"
$25.00 third in "A" $35.00 for winning the"B"

Less than 12 entries pays back 50% of entries for first "A" -- 25 for
second "A" -- 10% for third "A"

ALL traction compounds Paragon, Niftech, TQ products are ALLOWED. Look for Pre-registration at www.theworldofhobbies.com

I believe the 12th classes will be Stock, 19t, 5800 brushless, and open mod.
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:27 PM   #16264
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who else go through rear bearings like crazy? i maintain my bearings very well, i lube em frequently but they just go gritty after a while. these bearings arent cheap either (crc). anyone have experience with ceramic bearings in their 1/12 especially the rear? i thinking of investing just wanna ask before i buy some and have the same problem.
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:08 PM   #16265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Looks good, I have a hell of a time getting the bodies to sit right. It is definatly not as easy as mounting a sedan body.
My body posts are always cut short. They have only one hole above where I normally place the pins. More often than not, tall body posts just help to get you hung up in incidents with other cars.

Before I paint, I place the clear body on the chassis and mark the locations of the posts on the outside. Nothing to it...And this applies to TC as well.

Bill
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:18 PM   #16266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
who else go through rear bearings like crazy? i maintain my bearings very well, i lube em frequently but they just go gritty after a while. these bearings arent cheap either (crc). anyone have experience with ceramic bearings in their 1/12 especially the rear? i thinking of investing just wanna ask before i buy some and have the same problem.
OD and I have been running ceramic bearing throughout the car for the last two years, both indoor and outdoor. Some of the bearings in my cars are the original bearings from my first purchase! If you keep them clean, as you obviously are, then the only way you can destroy them is from hard lateral impacts. Some of my longest wearing ceramic bearings I got from KGB who used to have the best prices. They wised up and now are not that much cheaper than other suppliers. RC4Less has good prices as well. They only bearing in the car that does not hold up as long as the others is the outside diff bearing that the cone goes against. Yeah, yeah. I know all about the slapmaster thrust bearing. Used those fifteen years ago.

Once you go ceramic, you never go back!!
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:42 PM   #16267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
They only bearing in the car that does not hold up as long as the others is the outside diff bearing that the cone goes against. Yeah, yeah. I know all about the slapmaster thrust bearing. Used those fifteen years ago.
Can someone give me some general info on the Slapmaster Thrust? Can it be used with an IRS big-ring rear diff? How do I install it? How much is it?/Is it worth it?
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:42 PM   #16268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
who else go through rear bearings like crazy? i maintain my bearings very well, i lube em frequently but they just go gritty after a while. these bearings arent cheap either (crc). anyone have experience with ceramic bearings in their 1/12 especially the rear? i thinking of investing just wanna ask before i buy some and have the same problem.
do you use the original ride height adjusters? I found mine to bind severely and eating up my bearing in no time. After getting hold of the IRS ride height adjusters the problem was solved. Since then, I've only replaced the diff outer bearing.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:42 PM   #16269
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Default Murdock ceramic bearings

Go to Murdock R/C for complete sets of ceramic bearings and diff balls for your 1/12th scale cars at $35/set. Enough to do your whole car.

Rob Murdock actually caters to oval car racing. Be sure to tell him if you want flanged or unflanged front wheel bearings when ordering.

Just received a couple ceramic sets from him today.

http://members.willinet.net/bmurdock...KRC/index.html
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:44 PM   #16270
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Steve,

You going tomorrow
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:47 PM   #16271
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Don't make me lonely tomorrow guys...
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:48 PM   #16272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Can someone give me some general info on the Slapmaster Thrust? Can it be used with an IRS big-ring rear diff? How do I install it? How much is it?/Is it worth it?
Yes it can be used on the IRS big-ring rear diff. I have it in my car now for a little over a year and haven't had to replace a bearing since. I think it is worth it I was buying a diff bearing at least once every 2 weeks. My diff is extremely smooth. Go to the MS2.3 thread and post your question there Brian will more than happy to explain it to you.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:52 PM   #16273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Go to Murdock R/C for complete sets of ceramic bearings and diff balls for your 1/12th scale cars at $35/set. Enough to do your whole car.

Rob Murdock actually caters to oval car racing. Be sure to tell him if you want flanged or unflanged front wheel bearings when ordering.

Just received a couple ceramic sets from him today.

http://members.willinet.net/bmurdock...KRC/index.html
thanks. does the ceramic bearings feel gritty after a while?
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:53 PM   #16274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
Yes it can be used on the IRS big-ring rear diff. I have it in my car now for a little over a year and haven't had to replace a bearing since. I think it is worth it I was buying a diff bearing at least once every 2 weeks. My diff is extremely smooth. Go to the MS2.3 thread and post your question there Brian will more than happy to explain it to you.
is the IRS big ring diff. the same as the CRC big ring diff?
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:56 PM   #16275
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I'll be there
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