R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-12-2005, 09:37 PM   #16231
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 12
Default 12l4 set-up help:^)

Hey guys jumping into 1/12 electric 2 things i have a 3.2r roller with low roll and other options email make offer car ran 3 times<you can steal it from me>,More importantly i need a starter KICKER set-up for a high grip Black ozite track,T-plates to front springs much appreciated:^)
Xtreme RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2005, 09:42 PM   #16232
Tech Elite
 
GrandeGixxer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 2,409
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

What exactly are you trying to say? Are you selling the 3.2r and need a setup for another car? Also, as I am sure you know, 1 persons setup is not going to work the same for you as it will for them. Driving styles are different and you will need to work to find your best setup.
GrandeGixxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2005, 10:08 PM   #16233
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 12
Default

yes,ive had no luck with the 3.2r and more importantly the track i run on uses road rails and as soon as i shoot over one the links,etc breaks,the l4 finished the race!And im just looking for a starter set-up for high grip Mod racing!
Xtreme RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2005, 10:53 PM   #16234
Tech Master
 
Speed Demon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ROCK GARDEN
Posts: 1,053
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Here's pics of the servo and the links; I assume this is what you're talking about...
JayBee,

WHat servo saver you are using? Any part# for it? I am using the same servo as yours..
__________________
CUSTOM CRAWLER & ROCK STACKER
Speed Demon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2005, 11:14 PM   #16235
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
JayBee,

WHat servo saver you are using? Any part# for it? I am using the same servo as yours..
Kimbrough #131...
__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 02:56 AM   #16236
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Yokomo YRX-12WE if you can find one. The best for outdoor, low traction.
thanks Crashby!
a guy at my local track also just purchases that yokomo chassis and told me its the best chassis for outdoor as well

but you did mention "if i could find one" i assume they dont make them anymore if so whats another alternative / 2nd best outdoor chassis?

thanks in advance crashby
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 03:21 AM   #16237
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Was anyone looking for a yokomo?

Here's a used one:
1/12 Yokomo WE NEVER RAN, GREAT X-MASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 08:50 AM   #16238
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
thanks Crashby!
a guy at my local track also just purchases that yokomo chassis and told me its the best chassis for outdoor as well

but you did mention "if i could find one" i assume they dont make them anymore if so whats another alternative / 2nd best outdoor chassis?

thanks in advance crashby
Tower Hobbies has them at $219.95. I got one from here.

And Stormer Hobbies has them at $239.95. Part No. YYRX12WE

Otherwise, I do occasionally see new and/or used ones on eBay and RCTech.net. As the above post says, there is a nice one on RCTech.net right now.

Bill
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 09:47 AM   #16239
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntensweapon
cypress.... do you have camber issues with the old skool blocks? i always had some out of the package that weren't right.
Yes, There are pairs that just aren't right, but that's to be expected from 15 or so year old molds I generally get two or three sets at a time and try to "match" them the set on my primary car right now has just under two degrees of caster w/ no shims, and the camber checks in right around 1.5 degrees. Alot of us used to have them sent out to a machine shop in our area to have them "evened-up" and in some cases milled down for more ride height, but since discovering the milled steering block trick I haven't had to have any milled down.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 10:07 AM   #16240
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
... but since discovering the milled steering block trick ...
want to share with the group?

E.
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 01:45 PM   #16241
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
want to share with the group?

E.
It's just taking .30 off the botom of the "Old Skool" steering block, then shimming the top beteen the block and the upper e-clip to take up the slack. You can then reposition the steering block on the kingpin to adjust your rideheight using shims, and have a negligible effect on the roll center. Bruce stated on the Rev4 thread that he'd have a tutorial on the Speedmerchant site covering this soon.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 02:29 PM   #16242
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 338
Default

Cypress Midwest, Do you have a 8441 steering block that you could check against an old skool block - doesn't look like the bottom would need to be milled - only shimmed - it looks to me like the same ackerman could be had with the first set of holes????????
DLM2005 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 02:44 PM   #16243
Tech Addict
 
RichChang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 587
Default

If you do the steering block milling, just remember you will need to dremel a bevel into the the leading edge of the top of the suspension blocks. Otherwise, the rims of your front tires will rub.

Make sure the tires spin freely not only when the wheels are straight, but also when turned left/right.

-Rich
RichChang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 07:09 PM   #16244
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichChang
If you do the steering block milling, just remember you will need to dremel a bevel into the the leading edge of the top of the suspension blocks. Otherwise, the rims of your front tires will rub.

Make sure the tires spin freely not only when the wheels are straight, but also when turned left/right.

-Rich
You also need to remove a little material from the suspension arm at the rear edge by the lower end of the steering block, or you won't get full steering throw.

dlm: I'm pretty sure it still adds a bit of Ackerman
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2005, 07:17 PM   #16245
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: the CHI
Posts: 408
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hey i need help looking for a speedo for my 1/12 scale should
i get a novak gtx or a ko vfs-1
Matthew.H is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:20 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0