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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-11-2005, 11:10 AM   #16201
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Nope, I would just shim your links so they are parallel with the ground. prevents any weird bump steer. I generally tried making the link straight both in relation to the rear axle (when you look at the car from above and parallel to the ground when you look at it from the back of the car.

-Korey
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:11 AM   #16202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Crosier-
Thanks but I didn't find anything wrong with the servo; I just went out and bought a new servo and plan on sending this one in

Crashby-
Oohhh too late...already opened her up but found no stripped gears so what can I say, maybe the circuit board? Oh the servo saver is A-OK Anyway the servo was mounted on the angled mounts but the new servo (Hitech HS-225MG) is mounted flat w/ Shoegoo. It doesn't fit between any of the mounting positions (the width is pretty narrow) but the car seems to be tracking fine with it. I know placing the servo flat changes the Ackerman effect to some degree but does it affect the car negatively?
Thanks for the help guys ...
servo that is mounted flat usually increased bump steer and is required to shim the ball struds. i like to mount my servo angled. it saves my front tires from getting dented from a crash.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:12 AM   #16203
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If you looking for a good servo that fit in CRC's car, take a look on the new JR Z-3650 digital and metal gear servo. Small, fast and plenty of torque. The JR Z-3550 is direct fit too but is nylon gear and analog.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:27 AM   #16204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart42
If you looking for a good servo that fit in CRC's car, take a look on the new JR Z-3650 digital and metal gear servo. Small, fast and plenty of torque. The JR Z-3550 is direct fit too but is nylon gear and analog.
i already have a jr3550. i was just asking to see if theres more out there that will fit the crc chassis.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:30 AM   #16205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Nope, I would just shim your links so they are parallel with the ground. prevents any weird bump steer. I generally tried making the link straight both in relation to the rear axle (when you look at the car from above and parallel to the ground when you look at it from the back of the car.

-Korey
Here's pics of the servo and the links; I assume this is what you're talking about...
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Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:31 AM   #16206
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Thanks for the tips. The car went together nice. It kinda makes me want one for myself now lol.
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Old 12-11-2005, 12:15 PM   #16207
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Unless its BRAND NEW replace the servo saver. There can be cracks you can't see and the spring gets week even though it feels fine. The same with .020 front spring.

PS........from another board. They have added a 19t class at both ROAR Nats next year. Now 12th scale drivers can run two classes.
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:55 PM   #16208
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Default 12l3 questions

hiya,

I normal do 1/10th and 1/8th ic on road, Since winter is here, i decided to go 1/12th racing indoor !!

Brought a second hand associated 12l3 from member of club...two question..

How would you mount a standard size servo such as ko 2143 on the car ? Seen picts on net, but seem like they are glued on!! If so what would you use ?

Instead of using reinforced tape to mount cells onto chassis, is there a special battery strap u can buy or just plain old velcro strap ( would the strap touch the ground or there is a method for strapping battery in ?

Would be grateful if you could post picts of mod ...

Thanks

xtreme888
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Old 12-11-2005, 03:25 PM   #16209
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If the servo is flat aginst the chassie it is probable shoe-gooed to it. As far as the battery straps you'll want smothing super thin so it wont drag on the ground under a load. I've seen some battery straps before, but never tryed any out......

Chris....
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Old 12-12-2005, 01:31 AM   #16210
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What do you guys like for a 19 turn (fixed timing) motor on a larger high bite track? Looking to buy to purchase for March since there's a bigger race coming up but it only has 19T 1/12th. Is there a motor on the horizon that looks promising that would prevent me from purchasing now? Also, some spring and brush combos would be helpful.

Thanks,
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:08 AM   #16211
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hey guys
need some help on choosing the right car please

looking for a 12th scale that can be run on a reasonably flat low traction outdoor asphalt track.

thanks in advance guys
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:13 AM   #16212
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I've got a mini xpress roadrunner. I think its 1:12 AFAIK. I may be able to answer some questions but doubtfull
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:02 AM   #16213
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Is there any "set-up" manuals/tips/dos and don'ts out there for 12 scale?
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:22 AM   #16214
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This may or may not be a useful post but here it goes.

I'm currently running a Reedy PT 10x2 geared out to 100 spur and a 23 pinion. I'm running full size tires front and rear; I just trued them to even them both out so I don't know the exact roll out so don't ask.

My point is that I was told by my race director that I'm running a motor with too much tourqe which maybe true however what I was looking for is more acceleration out of the corners... so I thought hey try the bigger motor. Well apparently its too big... I was told by another racer that I should try a 12x3 or a 14x3 something that had softer acceleration.

So here's the issue... I'm looking to shoot out of corners why would I go with a smoother motor? Personally, its pretty neat that I power out of the coroners and the rear end sticks out a bit and then strengthens out, and I know that's not the fastest way around the track. So would going to a smoother motor help my lap speeds or just a simple slap in the face with some time I'll master the no slam the gas method of cornering?
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:36 AM   #16215
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Here's the slap in the face : (no offense, only trying to help)
Throttle control is paramount in any from of racing. Even in touring, though most racers running touring don't have any throttle control. That way none of them will ever become top racers. Mashing the throttle coming out of the corner upsets the car, making it loose acceleration and lets your car travel unneccessary distance, while consuming unneccessary power. Using a smoother motor will only mask your lack of throttle control, and probably make you slower overall. In the long run you'll be better of running a hotter motor and learning to control that finger.
It takes time and dicipline, but you'll become a better driver overall, in any class of racing.
Try this: run your car with 75% of throttle MAX. Keep at least 25% of throttle, even in the slowest corners. If you can't make the tightest turns, build in more steering. You'll find that after a few pack's practice, you'll be just as fast as you were before, while having much more runtime.
At that point you can gear up, and really become faster.
This is what I've been trying to teach myself during last summer season, and it has really paid off: I beat the german Pro10 top using basic electronics against their high-zoot stuff at the end of the outdoor season.
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