R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-10-2005, 09:40 AM   #16171
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Crashby, (and jph)

I see what you are saying here but I don't see the wieght balance having a big effect on tweak at least not in a comparison of these two circumstances. If the wieght balance is off by too much it will affect handling if you do a positive tweak or not. If the wieght balance is not right and you tweak the car for even wieght on the front then there is no way the weight can be even on each wheel. I haven't thought it all the way through but tweaking the car does not redistribute the weight in the car, just the pressure on the front wheels. The way I "tweaked" the car was to tweak it normally and then back each screw of by one full turn so the distance the spring were away from the balls was the same each side. Not much else to do I think. i know I haven't thought it all through yet but I'll get there.

Crashby, I have a repaired ICS for you.

Chris

Chris
Why did you bother to tweak the car and then back the springs off? By backing off the tweak screws until there are gaps between the springs and the top of the rear links you have effectively removed any tweak changes you made.

Thanks for the repair on the ICS. I wish I was there racing this weekend.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 12:04 PM   #16172
Tech Elite
 
BillyCaldwell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: OKC, Oklahoma
Posts: 4,005
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to BillyCaldwell
Default

I am building a CRC T Fource Team Red Edition for my bud. Other than the normal carbon prep, are there any other useful tips to help make this a great build?

Thanks in advance.
__________________
Maclin | VP-Pro USA
BillyCaldwell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 12:16 PM   #16173
Tech Addict
 
Jammin'Trey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bennington, Ne
Posts: 404
Send a message via ICQ to Jammin'Trey
Default

Polish the front king pins and make shure that the rear pod moves very freely.
Jammin'Trey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 03:51 PM   #16174
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lawtonlosi
I am building a CRC T Fource Team Red Edition for my bud. Other than the normal carbon prep, are there any other useful tips to help make this a great build?

Thanks in advance.
Use the .020 (can't remember what it comes with) springs and start off with either the 5 or 10 degree blocks, I use the 10s. I also use the .75 T-bar from associated as opposed to the CRC T-bar and side springs, but that's up to your friend what way he wants to go.
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 04:15 PM   #16175
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Chico, Ca
Posts: 810
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Why did you bother to tweak the car and then back the springs off? By backing off the tweak screws until there are gaps between the springs and the top of the rear links you have effectively removed any tweak changes you made.

Thanks for the repair on the ICS. I wish I was there racing this weekend.
Crashby,

This is Chris, I'm using Ruben's laptop at the track, hence the different handle. I would think that as the outside front spring compresses int he corner also the outside (I think) side spring will contact. I'm not backing them off much but I wanted any contact between spring and ball to be even either side.

I wish you and the other crusty ones were here, we only have 5 12th scalers.

Chris
schurcr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 07:33 PM   #16176
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

My 12th-scale friends-
I have been using the KO 949 in my car since I've had it with no problems until...yesterday
The servo just won't center. I've tried using the 'quick' trim on the radio and it would correct the problem initially but a few seconds later veer right/left, hard right/hard left . So I said screw the Main and fix the car, zeroed out all trim & endpoints_re-centered the servo on the car_rebuilt the links to stock settings_reset stock camber_repositioned servo saver. Then adjusted the car to the radio but in the end, same damn problem So I've come to the conclusion that the all-impressive 949 is busted. I wonder if it has something to do with being a 6V servo instead of a 4.8V one Do I need a receiver pack on the car too? For right now though I just went out and bought a HiTec HS-225MG. Do you guys think the KO is busted?
__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 07:40 PM   #16177
Tech Master
 
dakrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: 96th ABW
Posts: 1,581
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
My 12th-scale friends-
I have been using the KO 949 in my car since I've had it with no problems until...yesterday
The servo just won't center. I've tried using the 'quick' trim on the radio and it would correct the problem initially but a few seconds later veer right/left, hard right/hard left . So I said screw the Main and fix the car, zeroed out all trim & endpoints_re-centered the servo on the car_rebuilt the links to stock settings_reset stock camber_repositioned servo saver. Then adjusted the car to the radio but in the end, same damn problem So I've come to the conclusion that the all-impressive 949 is busted. I wonder if it has something to do with being a 6V servo instead of a 4.8V one Do I need a receiver pack on the car too? For right now though I just went out and bought a HiTec HS-225MG. Do you guys think the KO is busted?
more likely
dakrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 08:36 PM   #16178
Tech Master
 
dakrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: 96th ABW
Posts: 1,581
Default

***UPDATE***

i finally got a chance to run the corally steering link in my t-fource and the results are ok..... i like the way to car track straight the cornering is a lil slower and my front wheels have multiple dents in the inner rim due to the contact of the bigger ballcup from a crash. im switching back to turnbuckle style. i love the straightness but aint worth my tires.
dakrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 08:43 PM   #16179
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: colorado springs
Posts: 225
Default

Jaybee,

A reciever pack will let you have the full speed and torque of the servo. That is the main reason why I use one in stock. btw, I have a ko 949 servo in mine, and I don't have a $100 to have less than 100% performance .

I would open up the casing on the ko and see if you stripped a gear. If you stripped a gear, the replacement is far cheaper than a new servo.
darkangel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 09:04 PM   #16180
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

I'm looking into it now ...
__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 09:31 PM   #16181
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default Thank you Crimson Eagle and the 3 Wise Men

Thanks for leading me to the Rev 4 guys...

Easily cut a couple tenths off during my maiden run with it at Stockton and had an 11.9 sec lap during the race. Wow...What a car!

Hope to see you all next weekend for the NW Carpet Champs...Get well OD.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 10:04 PM   #16182
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 285
Default

Bill........was the track layout the same as we ran on Wednesday? Glad you like the Rev4!
jrrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 10:23 PM   #16183
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Yep, exact same layout. Believe Ruben has enough positive comments about this layout so it may well be what we use next weekend for the Champs.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 10:29 PM   #16184
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 285
Default

I vote for that......let the bite build up like what it will be at the Nats.

Thanks.........Jim
jrrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2005, 10:45 PM   #16185
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 81
Default

Chris: Are you using progressive or standard springs in the rear?
__________________
Jake

E-Mail: JPHRacing001@aol.com
www.JPHRacing.com
JPH Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:33 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0