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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-09-2005, 12:17 PM   #16156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
On the subject of 12th scale posting. Cypress, a few of us on Wednesday evening ran a setup with the tweak screws backed off on our Rev 4's in stock. I like this a lot it felt like the car was a lot less nervous and the rear of the car was felt more bolted down. I compensated but running max caster (new style front end) and more traction compound on the front. Car was great, a lap improvement for the race and .4 sec improvement for a lap. This wasn't all down to the side springs though, I worked on the front end of the car which helped a lot. Have you tried this yet with any success?

Chris
We ran 1mm of gap between the side springs and links at the Indoor Champs with great success. Seemed to really help over the bumps, and let the car reall transfer weight quickly to the outside front tire, so the cars turned in really well, then once the outside spring was loaded, the car behaved just as it normally would. Bruce actually has Dumas' and Pritch's set-up on the site now, and that little trick is listed in their set-ups.

I'm hoping to make it out to Stockton for the Nats this spring, I wanna get the chance to race with you left coast guys. You all seem to be really great guys with a good bit of knowledge, so obviously I'd like to meet the 12th scale gang out that way.
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:27 PM   #16157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
My apologizes to everyone I hope you can forgive me my intentions where good I think my excitement got the better of me. My post was after another good night of racing. At last I have found a car that is consistent. My previous car I struggled one race it would be good the next it would be what the heck is going on. Anyway it has been nice to work with Brian because he has been so helpful.
It's cool! I too have let enthusiasm for my chassis cloud the wording of many of my posts in the past, so it's entirely understandable.
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:38 PM   #16158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
...my own Odyssey minivan....

Scottrik
You admitted on a public forum that you dirve a minivan

Now that's funny. I've made to my mid 30's with 2 kids, so far no minivan

E.
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:46 PM   #16159
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That's what happens when you're comfortable with who you are. Keep at it--you'll get there.

Plus...guess what car EVERYBODY wants to take when we go on a racin' road trip? That's right. Once you've owned one you'll never want to be without one. I know I won't, and I've never had kids and am too old to start now.

Scottrik
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:46 PM   #16160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
My apologizes to everyone I hope you can forgive me my intentions where good I think my excitement got the better of me. My post was after another good night of racing. At last I have found a car that is consistent. My previous car I struggled one race it would be good the next it would be what the heck is going on. Anyway it has been nice to work with Brian because he has been so helpful.
Thankyou for the gracious and unqualified apology, I'm sure the other guys who frequent this thread will also be more than happy to accept it. Also this happens to most of us at one time or another I know I have done it. How are you finding the slapmaster car? I always had trouble running the side springs in conjunction with the t-plate. If I get to try it again this year that is something I will definifely play with. I never found a mod setup I really liked.

Chris
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:50 PM   #16161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
That's what happens when you're comfortable with who you are. Keep at it--you'll get there.

Plus...guess what car EVERYBODY wants to take when we go on a racin' road trip? That's right. Once you've owned one you'll never want to be without one. I know I won't, and I've never had kids and am too old to start now.

Scottrik
Gettin' close... The wife wants a toyota highlander hybrid.
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Old 12-09-2005, 02:27 PM   #16162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Thankyou for the gracious and unqualified apology, I'm sure the other guys who frequent this thread will also be more than happy to accept it. Also this happens to most of us at one time or another I know I have done it. How are you finding the slapmaster car? I always had trouble running the side springs in conjunction with the t-plate. If I get to try it again this year that is something I will definifely play with. I never found a mod setup I really liked.

Chris
Thanks all for excepting my apology.

I really like the car compared to my previous car I am able to put up 3 more laps through eight minutes with the same track layout. I find the car to be really easy to drive. I also have found trouble with the side springs so I removed them and just use dampening oil. Brian runs side springs and his car looks awesome. I contribute that to my driving style or lack there of. The last couple of years I have been running mod with my previous car and it was a struggle. I spent more time moving over than learning how to drive it. Finally this year we have good group of guys running 19 turn or stock.
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Old 12-09-2005, 06:56 PM   #16163
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Originally Posted by burgboyz
I ordered 4 of the cefx lmp p-900 bodies off of the cefx.net site.
I'll report back if and when they arrive!!!!!
Surprise,surprise!! My bodies showed up today. It took over a month to get here....but they are cool!! I hope it doesnt take that long on my next order.
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Old 12-09-2005, 09:28 PM   #16164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
Thanks all for excepting my apology.

I really like the car compared to my previous car I am able to put up 3 more laps through eight minutes with the same track layout. I find the car to be really easy to drive. I also have found trouble with the side springs so I removed them and just use dampening oil. Brian runs side springs and his car looks awesome. I contribute that to my driving style or lack there of. The last couple of years I have been running mod with my previous car and it was a struggle. I spent more time moving over than learning how to drive it. Finally this year we have good group of guys running 19 turn or stock.

yes I think 19T is probably the most fun though I'm probably better at stock. I'm not good at throttle control so mod is not my best class. Maybe if I ran it for a few months I'd improve.

What was your previous car?

Chris
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Old 12-09-2005, 10:44 PM   #16165
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My original car was a L4 even though it was good especially in stock I had a heck of a time with it in mod. It seems with the MS2.3 the faster you go the easier it is to drive the car. I have throttle control issues with mod as well but lap times with a 19 turn are pretty close and much easier for me to drive. Another force for me buying the car is I drove Brians car last year after a race and the faster I went the easier it was to drive.
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Old 12-09-2005, 10:46 PM   #16166
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Chris: If you run the springs with a small gap, what sets the tweak of the car?
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Old 12-09-2005, 11:24 PM   #16167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPH Racing
Chris: If you run the springs with a small gap, what sets the tweak of the car?
You set the tweak on the car when you build it by placing the components on the car so it is equally weighted from left to right. Then every time you go on the track, you make sure that the left and right front tires are of equal diameter and the left and right rear tires are of equal diameter. As long as you don't bend something, the tweak should not be too far off. It is a challenge to get the components on the car and keep the car balanced.
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Old 12-10-2005, 01:35 AM   #16168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
You set the tweak on the car when you build it by placing the components on the car so it is equally weighted from left to right. Then every time you go on the track, you make sure that the left and right front tires are of equal diameter and the left and right rear tires are of equal diameter. As long as you don't bend something, the tweak should not be too far off. It is a challenge to get the components on the car and keep the car balanced.
Crashby, (and jph)

I see what you are saying here but I don't see the wieght balance having a big effect on tweak at least not in a comparison of these two circumstances. If the wieght balance is off by too much it will affect handling if you do a positive tweak or not. If the wieght balance is not right and you tweak the car for even wieght on the front then there is no way the weight can be even on each wheel. I haven't thought it all the way through but tweaking the car does not redistribute the weight in the car, just the pressure on the front wheels. The way I "tweaked" the car was to tweak it normally and then back each screw of by one full turn so the distance the spring were away from the balls was the same each side. Not much else to do I think. i know I haven't thought it all through yet but I'll get there.

Crashby, I have a repaired ICS for you.

Chris

Chris
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Old 12-10-2005, 01:49 AM   #16169
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Hay just wanted tell ya all good luck tomorrow, as I will not be able to make it. May not make it till after the first of the year......
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Old 12-10-2005, 02:25 AM   #16170
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What size wrenches are needed for the Rev4? Is there a manual for the car that I can download?
Thank you!
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