R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-08-2005, 10:35 AM   #16111
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Question for those running the Yokomo. I just got one for aspault for a cheap price. Like the looks of the design, but like all t-bar designs, it seems like you can tune with the t-bar. I went to the Yok site and only found one t-bar. I know it seems optimum for asphault, but we've been running on a hybrid industgrial carpet and the traction falls in betweem asphault and ozite. My question is, can I find a different t-bar, or willl others like the L4 fit, or am I stuck with that one option?
The best thing to do is switch to the AE t bar. Then you have all the various choices available from graphite to spring steel. You have to change to AE pivot sockets, the Yokomo ones will not fit.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 11:16 AM   #16112
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
drsfly this is the only carpet chassis you should be looking at http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...56#post1987256
Well, I'll have to disagree, if you want a PROVEN carpet chassis conversion for your Yok you could go with the car that just finished one, two at the US Indoor champs in Mod 12th scale.

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1407.html

Plus it gets rid of that stupid T-bar!!!
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 11:28 AM   #16113
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 11:45 AM   #16114
Tech Master
 
Number 11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,377
Default

YEP your right what the hell was I thinking suggesting another chassis.
Number 11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 11:48 AM   #16115
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
YEP your right what the hell was I thinking suggesting another chassis.
it's not that you suggested another chassis, it's that you said it's the only chassis worth considering.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 12:39 PM   #16116
Tech Master
 
Number 11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,377
Default

That's my opinion fella! Are you telling me I can't have an opinion on RC Tech? You offer an opinion of what you like and know I am not slamming you on your opinion.
Number 11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 12:46 PM   #16117
Tech Master
 
Number 11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,377
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
YEP your right what the hell was I thinking suggesting another chassis.
MidWest I did say you where right why are you harping on this?
Number 11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 12:52 PM   #16118
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
YEP your right what the hell was I thinking suggesting another chassis.
Sorry, I thought the above post was a sarcastic retort to my post, so I merely explained why I posted what I did. No real harping intended.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 12:55 PM   #16119
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Number 11
That's my opinion fella! Are you telling me I can't have an opinion on RC Tech? You offer an opinion of what you like and know I am not slamming you on your opinion.
I have to agree with cypress here, you did not originally state it as your opinion, you stated it as fact, and that "fact" has been challenged, not supported.

Furthermore I have to agree with cypress about the Rev4, in my opinion, it's a great 12th scale carpet car. Now the unusual carpet may cause some issues but the rev4 is so good I think it would work out fine.

The slapmaster car is an excellent car, I know, I have one. I'm driving a speedmerchant right now though as I think it goes through the corners a little better.

Chris
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 12:56 PM   #16120
Tech Master
 
Number 11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,377
Default

Nope not trying to start anything here I guess if you heard it from my mouth it would sound better than typing it out. After I read my post it does sound kind of sarcastic.
Number 11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 01:08 PM   #16121
Tech Regular
 
drsfly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NE. Ill
Posts: 443
Default chassis choices aplenty

Well in the long run I may wish I had gone for one of the choices mentioned here but a sale price is a sale price so I went for the BMI. I am sure it will be good enough to get my feet wet in the 12th arena. My driving skill level is well below the level of my cars(fk05) performance capability so this should be a real comedy of errors.
Thanks for all the input.

Darrald
drsfly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 01:09 PM   #16122
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
... . so i have to settle with a jr3550
There's nothing wrong with the JR servo. Settling would be with an Airtronics servo. jmo.

E.
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 01:14 PM   #16123
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Number 11... you need to execise caution when you mention what car is best for carpet around CypressMidWest as he has a very strong (good or bad) opinion (feeling) about the SpeedMerchant cars

You'd have to go back approx. 3-400 pages to see some of the battles that used to somtimes occur over differences of opnions. It was all good in the end though.

E.
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 01:15 PM   #16124
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by drsfly
Well in the long run I may wish I had gone for one of the choices mentioned here but a sale price is a sale price so I went for the BMI. I am sure it will be good enough to get my feet wet in the 12th arena. My driving skill level is well below the level of my cars(fk05) performance capability so this should be a real comedy of errors.
Thanks for all the input.

Darrald
The BMI is a decent car, and you should do fine. 12th scale is actually easier to get around the track than a TC. It's just harder to be perfect for 8 mins. with a 12th scale car than it is to muscle a grocery getter around for 5 mins. As long as you put a decent build on your car, and get the set-up right, you'll be okay. 12th scale is all about details, so if the cars good it'll actually make you're driving look better than it is. Good luck and keep the questions coming!
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2005, 01:19 PM   #16125
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Number 11... you need to execise caution when you mention what car is best for carpet around CypressMidWest as he has a very strong (good or bad) opinion (feeling) about the SpeedMerchant cars

You'd have to go back approx. 3-400 pages to see some of the battles that used to somtimes occur over differences of opnions. It was all good in the end though.

E.
Strong point I've been doing this for about 18 years, I've run virtually every competitive brand of chassis, and in that time I've learned alot of things, so I tend to stick very strongly with my convictions.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:54 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0