R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-06-2005, 10:39 AM   #16066
Tech Elite
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 4,577
Default

Sag at rest, or when you lift the front?
__________________
Mason McCombs
NewRed Hobbies & Indoor Facility
Off-Road, Dirt Oval, Crawlers & Pullers
Mason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 10:56 AM   #16067
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1
Default Looking for new 1/12

Hello friends:
I am looking for a new 1/12.
I am thinking in Calandra Carpet Knife 3.2R and Corally SP12M2
What do you think?
My first use will be asphalt.
Another model?

I would be very grateful if you could help me.

A lot of thank's
runahue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 11:07 AM   #16068
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
On adifferent note... A friend of mine gave me a bunch of colored computer power supply wire that is 18 gauge and says to use it for my RC cars.
Can this wire be used for it? I see 12-14 and some 16 gauge seems to be the standard for 6 cell cars and I also see some that uses slot car wire for their 12 scale cars.....

THX in advance.
16 guage is the norm for four cell 1/12th scale cars. It has more voltage drop per length than 14 but I can't tell the difference on the track. Slot car lead wire is 18 or 20 guage but I've never seen anyone use it for RC power wire. You may have seen pictures of cars on this forum using Castle Creations 16 guage wire, which has a very thin jacket (that's why we use it); and it looks like 18 ga.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 11:15 AM   #16069
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason
Sag at rest, or when you lift the front?
I honestly dont know and I am not running my 12th scale for awhile to test it. I would assme its up in the air and how much you can raise the steering block before contacting the spring. I have always built my front ends with zero preload and zero sag (or as close to it as I can get).
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 11:21 AM   #16070
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
16 guage is the norm for four cell 1/12th scale cars. It has more voltage drop per length than 14 but I can't tell the difference on the track. Slot car lead wire is 18 or 20 guage but I've never seen anyone use it for RC power wire. You may have seen pictures of cars on this forum using Castle Creations 16 guage wire, which has a very thin jacket (that's why we use it); and it looks like 18 ga.
I also noticed on Dumas' winning Speed Merchant car at Cleveland that he had 12ga wire from the batteries to the speed control and 16ga wire from the speed control to the motor. The main reason for using 16ga wire is to eliminate any restrictions placed on the movement of the motor pod by 12ga wire and to reduce weight. I may have to try using 12ga on the battery to speed control connection.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 11:23 AM   #16071
Tech Elite
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 4,577
Default

I would imagine that with a stiffer setup, and a mod motor, there might be some need for some 'droop' as you could possibly lift the front end off the ground (either straight line or quick directional change) and droop would still give you steering up to a point. In any case, after the tires come off the ground it doesn't matter what the setup is.
__________________
Mason McCombs
NewRed Hobbies & Indoor Facility
Off-Road, Dirt Oval, Crawlers & Pullers
Mason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 11:26 AM   #16072
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Mason-that makes a lot of sense-thank you.
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 11:26 AM   #16073
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
I may have to try using 12ga on the battery to speed control connection.
No! Don't do it! I can't beat you now, you don't want to go any faster. And another thing, don't use any locktight; I like it when the nuts fall off your car!
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 12:21 PM   #16074
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fremont, Ca.
Posts: 78
Default

Just a quick question about 16ga. wire. I want to rewire my GT-7 with 16ga. wire, but was wondering if I have to leave the shocky diode inline with the motor for the ESC to work correct ?? If not will any damage happen from not using it ??

Thanks

Chris........
Grub_Maker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 12:48 PM   #16075
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grub_Maker
Just a quick question about 16ga. wire. I want to rewire my GT-7 with 16ga. wire, but was wondering if I have to leave the shocky diode inline with the motor for the ESC to work correct ?? If not will any damage happen from not using it ??

Thanks

Chris........
For 4 cell stock you can probably get away without the schotky, but I'm not sure because I always used it when I ran a GT7. As long as it's connected to the motor it will function. Here's a picture of how I attached it to my Rev3.

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:50 PM.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 01:12 PM   #16076
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I have been running a GT7 with no diode for months now (1/12th stock) and no problems what so ever.
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 01:54 PM   #16077
Tech Fanatic
 
crimson eagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 841
Send a message via ICQ to crimson eagle
Default

8 gauge solid copper, it's the only way to fly

Chris
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-chrisrhodesrev4b.jpg  
crimson eagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 02:39 PM   #16078
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fremont, Ca.
Posts: 78
Default

Thanks guys !!!!!!! I think I may run without the schocky.....less wireing = simple = more fun at the track, and less to go wrong !!!! Plus my L4 needs to go on a diet anyhow....lol....

Thanks,
Chris...
Grub_Maker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 06:15 PM   #16079
Tech Elite
 
Taz_S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Santa Rosa CA
Posts: 2,551
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Crashby and OD: I having jake order me a Rev 4 what eles should he get from Speedmerchant and what Servo are you running?
__________________
Jake's Performance Hobbies http://www.jphracing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/757500284356171 Facebook Group for Pro 10
Taz_S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2005, 07:03 PM   #16080
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz_S
Crashby and OD: I having jake order me a Rev 4 what eles should he get from Speedmerchant and what Servo are you running?
Front arm braces are nice. Everything else is there. KO 949
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:51 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0