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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-05-2005, 12:03 AM   #16051
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yea i grabed up a 12th a few weeks ago and i only have a total of 7 packs trough it and loving it. cheaper and real quick. who knows... maybe my TCs will take a back seat for a lil while
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Old 12-05-2005, 12:07 AM   #16052
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Ya I hear yah. I haven't raced TC all indoor this year. As a mater of fact I'am selling one of my TC to make room for that "non T-bar car".
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Old 12-05-2005, 12:26 AM   #16053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Nilsen
Hey Guys, I need some advice.

I'd like to get into 1/12 scale, and plan to buy a new kit. I'm having a bit of difficulty figuring out which to get, though.
I have got to stand up for the home team here. The Rev.4 is just great, hands down the car to beat. For your average price you get a top notch kit that includes a genuine IRS big ring diff and a genuine set of IRS lowered pods. No cheap knock offs here.

The car handles incredibly well and setup help is very easy to get. Bruce Carbone is HANDS DOWN the best resource for setup information any racer could possibly have and with the amount of his drivers that frequent these forums you won't be lost.

Overall I feel the car is easier to maintain and keep running fast than anything else. With the use of the older style front end, no T-Plate and not having to run saddle packs your life is a whole lot more enjoyable.

Nick
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Old 12-05-2005, 06:40 AM   #16054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picco007
The droop I am talking about is really the length of the center shock. If the shock is long then you will have droop if it is shorter then the amount of droop is less.

If you pick up your car from the front end and look to see if your rear pod is lower. You would have to hold the car let's say with your left hand looking at the car from it's side at eye level. Look at the rear pod to see if it droops lower than your main chassis. That is what the droop is.

More droop in my case gives me less on power steering. An almost level rear pod in relation to the main chassis will give you more on power steering.

Let me know if how it works or if there is the other things that I mentioned earlier that may cause your loose car.
thanks picco007... I must admit that I've never heard a droop in pan car before..
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Old 12-05-2005, 07:32 AM   #16055
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Grub Maker you and your friends excitment is the thing that will make this class grow!! Good Luck.
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Old 12-05-2005, 07:44 AM   #16056
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today I look at my manual I realize there is caster setting. What is the starting setting reccomended?
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Old 12-05-2005, 03:44 PM   #16057
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what size spur shoudl i run. i already have a 100 on there but as my tures wear down the spur is getting close to the carpet. and that is with 46 mm rears. should i go to a 94 or somthing like that?
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Old 12-05-2005, 03:50 PM   #16058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
what size spur shoudl i run. i already have a 100 on there but as my tures wear down the spur is getting close to the carpet. and that is with 46 mm rears. should i go to a 94 or somthing like that?
96 tooth spur is a good fit for stock or mod. I use a 92 when I need a really high gear, like for 19 turn.
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Old 12-05-2005, 04:01 PM   #16059
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What is a good motor brush combo for 1/12 scale? I am running Putnam reds and purple springs (ouch) in my crc
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Old 12-05-2005, 04:02 PM   #16060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
what size spur shoudl i run. i already have a 100 on there but as my tures wear down the spur is getting close to the carpet. and that is with 46 mm rears. should i go to a 94 or somthing like that?
I have been running an 88T spur for about 18 months. For the pedantic wise asses out there (you know who you are -cough OD cough-). That doesn't mean the same one.

Chris
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Old 12-05-2005, 04:08 PM   #16061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
I have been running an 88T spur for about 18 months. For the pedantic wise asses out there (you know who you are -cough OD cough-). That doesn't mean the same one.

Chris
88, then 87, then...at what point do you change it?
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Old 12-05-2005, 07:56 PM   #16062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin'Trey
What is a good motor brush combo for 1/12 scale? I am running Putnam reds and purple springs (ouch) in my crc
I know Putnam uses their green springs for 1/12th scale tuned motors. I go back and forth between red +/green - and green/green using trinity springs. For brushes I've only used F brushes and they seem to work well in my monster and roar stock, Putnam uses green/blue combo which I may give a shot once I run out of F brushes, 767s are also the good old standby.
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:56 PM   #16063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
88, then 87, then...at what point do you change it?

I'll usually change it when you get within 4 laps of me, last time I was down to about 14 teeth.
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:30 AM   #16064
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On adifferent note... A friend of mine gave me a bunch of colored computer power supply wire that is 18 gauge and says to use it for my RC cars.
Can this wire be used for it? I see 12-14 and some 16 gauge seems to be the standard for 6 cell cars and I also see some that uses slot car wire for their 12 scale cars.....

THX in advance.
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Old 12-06-2005, 10:29 AM   #16065
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Default Front droop?

hey all,

I have been seeing racers adding back in droop to the front suspension. Not droop like we do on our TC's per se, more like sag in the front springs.

Can anyone tell me what running the front end with a little sag does compared to running shimmed up tighter?

Thanks,
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