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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-04-2005, 08:57 PM   #16036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
You may just have to replace the majority of the parts in the front end. Sometimes just replacing the balls in the upper eyelet and the lower A arm will eliminate most of the slop. When I looked at your front end, it looks like you may have to replace the steering block as well. Niftech makes bronze balls for the upper eyelet and the lower A arm and RC4Less also has the balls that are Teflon coated. I have not used the stock plastic kit balls in years. Start with new balls and new steering blocks.

Hi Crashby,

Yes you are probably right, I have replaced the lower steering blocks which has helped with up/down play and I have got some upper eyelets to change. I need to pick up some of the balls for the eyelet though as those ones are plastic, The lower ones are anod alum but they still don't feel good. I'll have to sort something out. RC4less may be good Niftech can be difficult to deal with even though they do the best stuff.

Chris
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:59 PM   #16037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
The best way to take the slop out of a Rev.4 front end is to run the old school setup

Nick,

I have a rev 4 with the old school front end, it isn't working for me right now.

Chris
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:02 PM   #16038
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Is there any 1/12th scale racing in Orange county Ca.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:05 PM   #16039
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The old school front end is dialed on the rev. 4 for big races where there is alot of bite, however for club racing it doesnt always have enough steering. There is a problem with the mold, that not every arm is molded perfect left to right, sometimes one has a degree more castor or camber than the other, however you really cant tell any difference on the track, and if you are that dedicated then you can shim it out if you really want. Although like any plastic part it does wear, i have run the same arms since the carpet nats last year and they are still good. The only play i really get is un dampened up travel however i just use motor shims to take it out.
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:11 PM   #16040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormperson
The old school front end is dialed on the rev. 4 for big races where there is alot of bite, however for club racing it doesnt always have enough steering. There is a problem with the mold, that not every arm is molded perfect left to right, sometimes one has a degree more castor or camber than the other, however you really cant tell any difference on the track, and if you are that dedicated then you can shim it out if you really want. Although like any plastic part it does wear, i have run the same arms since the carpet nats last year and they are still good. The only play i really get is un dampened up travel however i just use motor shims to take it out.
I need to work on my old school front end car as it is a lot less work, I have a problem with it right now which I nees to sort out. It's diving into the corners really hard, verging on undriveable and washes out coming out. I havent worked out the problem yet. I need to set it up with a wheel radio so my victims.... Er I mean friends can check it out.

Chris
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:14 PM   #16041
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I learned that from P2 a while back. Althougth it is something that may help at certain times. Pushing on power or loose on power can be handled with other adjustments.

I have just learned to check the droop and go from there.

Talk to you soon!
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:16 PM   #16042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Thanks for the info picco007; that bit of info is very useful indeed

Your welcome. Like I said that is one form of adjustment that can help.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:27 PM   #16043
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Hey Guys, I need some advice.

I'd like to get into 1/12 scale, and plan to buy a new kit. I'm having a bit of difficulty figuring out which to get, though.

I've had people advise to stick with a t-bar car... since they are easier to tune and i'm new to 1/12 scale. Sound advice?

I'm hesitant to buy an associated 12L4 because I've had people say the build quality isn't all that great, the chassis is a little weak, the batteries are in a crappy orientation, and you've got to spend $$ to get a lowered pod and lowered front arms almost immediately.

I like some things about the Corally SP12M, but people warn me away from it because you have to use Corally wheels (which don't use 1/12 standard arbors for tire truers?) and I don't much like that you've got to buy car-specific pinions.

I'm somewhat interested in a CRC car, but there there's Speedmerchant, Trinity, Hyperform, etc, etc.... <bob's brain gets melty>

So, what should I get? Any suggestions (with explanations) would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:50 PM   #16044
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I've just entered the realm of 1/12 again and purchased a rc12l4. It's pretty dialed, build wasnt that bad either. Almost all of the 1/12's use one of Associated front ends..... so there is no way around that. All of the 1/12's will require work to build correctly, since they are so sensative to everything. The 12l4 is pretty easy to dial in though. Mine was pretty good out of the box, lowered pods and arms arent really a must have.... But they are nice. It does come with the good axle, which is super cool.

-Korey
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:01 PM   #16045
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You can say that again Sushi Boy's car is dialed.
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:34 PM   #16046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Nilsen
Hey Guys, I need some advice.

I'd like to get into 1/12 scale, and plan to buy a new kit. I'm having a bit of difficulty figuring out which to get, though.

I've had people advise to stick with a t-bar car... since they are easier to tune and i'm new to 1/12 scale. Sound advice?

I'm hesitant to buy an associated 12L4 because I've had people say the build quality isn't all that great, the chassis is a little weak, the batteries are in a crappy orientation, and you've got to spend $$ to get a lowered pod and lowered front arms almost immediately.

I like some things about the Corally SP12M, but people warn me away from it because you have to use Corally wheels (which don't use 1/12 standard arbors for tire truers?) and I don't much like that you've got to buy car-specific pinions.

I'm somewhat interested in a CRC car, but there there's Speedmerchant, Trinity, Hyperform, etc, etc.... <bob's brain gets melty>

So, what should I get? Any suggestions (with explanations) would be greatly appreciated.
I have a T-Fource as well as a couple Corallys (euros spec). Both cars are great and have their advantages and disadvantages. The Corally is infinitely easier to work on, it's also damn near bulletproof. The main negative would be the lack of setup help, which is the main reason I'd turn you away from it.

The great thing about the T-fource is it comes with the lowered pods, damper tubes, no tapes battery retainers, and you can use the T-bar or side springs for setting tweak, and plenty of setup help on the web. So, T-fource gets my vote unless you don't mind feeling around a bit for a setup and buying some extra pinions and arbor (the tires are cheap and Stormer ships fast so I don't think that's a big issue). The next car I will be trying out is either a Carpet Knife or Rev4, that's the great thing about 1/12th scale, you can try cars and they will be competitive for years at a time and they are half the price of most sedans.
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:37 PM   #16047
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I just started racing 1/12 scale, and what a change from TC. I'am loving it !!!! I went with a 12L4. I can't really compare being this is my first 1/12 scale, but the fast guys are running CRC's or Speedmechent's. When I finally got my car in that 10% window of diled it is the funnest class I've ever run. And talk about a group of racers that are willing to help out !!!! This is it. Thanks to all the 1/12th guys from stockton. With out you racers I would of Ebayed the L4 long ago. Low cost to run, easy on your motors, and some killer help from some of the most experenced racers at the track !!! Can't beat that......
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:46 PM   #16048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grub_Maker
I just started racing 1/12 scale, and what a change from TC. I'am loving it !!!! I went with a 12L4. I can't really compare being this is my first 1/12 scale, but the fast guys are running CRC's or Speedmechent's. When I finally got my car in that 10% window of diled it is the funnest class I've ever run. And talk about a group of racers that are willing to help out !!!! This is it. Thanks to all the 1/12th guys from stockton. With out you racers I would of Ebayed the L4 long ago. Low cost to run, easy on your motors, and some killer help from some of the most experenced racers at the track !!! Can't beat that......
That's liquid truth dripping from your lips; I couldn't have said it any better
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:58 PM   #16049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
That's liquid truth dripping from your lips; I couldn't have said it any better
Yeah, the sad thing is that it's still not a very popular class throughout the country. I understand why it lost popularity years ago, but I can't quite figure out why it's not gaining in popularity again faster than it is
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Old 12-05-2005, 12:02 AM   #16050
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I've have two of my friends and fellow racers comming into the class. Let one of them drive my car, and he was HOOKED !!!! Me and my friends are new to the class so please excuse the excitement....
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