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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-04-2005, 01:38 PM   #16021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
what part of the front end developes slop
I noticed slop mainly in the lower pivot ball and the upper a-arm. Grab a hold of your front wheel and start wiggling and just figure out what's doing it. Keep an eye on your springs and watch for them to develop play, over time they will start to collapse. When you replace them make sure you shim any play out but don't create pre-load.

When I switched over to the Hyperform car I was using the CRC front end parts and I was really pleased with them. The aluminum castor blocks where very straight and the delrin upper arms provided less wear for sure. I felt doing the CRC front end parts was a decent deal and it was by far the most consistent strut front end I have ever run.

Here is a picture of it on my old Hyperform rig:
http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...chmentid=84393

Have fun,
Nick
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Old 12-04-2005, 02:03 PM   #16022
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Anyone using Reedy Pt on your 1/12? i'm using a 9x2 and a 10x2 and wonder whether i should use 728 or 729 brushes. I read that 728 brushes were designed for 4 cell 1/12 use but i also heard from some other reputatable source saying 729 are actually better or just as good?
Any comments?
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Old 12-04-2005, 04:23 PM   #16023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Them boys, Crashby and OD were fast today at Stockton.

Their Rev 4s hauled...
When Chris said that JRRC had turned in an 11 second lap last Wednesday and in practice Saturday morning, no one was even close to an 11 second lap, I thought JRRC was still a step ahead of all of us. But in the main, five of the ten drivers all got into the 11 second range.

1. Chris (the winner) - one lap at 11.997
2. Ruben (nice run Ruben for never getting to play much) - 11.939
3. Aaron Biner (Aaron did have one lap in the 11's on his last qual) - 11.907
6. OD (second fastest lap of the day) - 11.904 and...
Last Place, (you gots to finish to win, Crashby) - 11.760

After my batteries peaked and during the last main before our main, I re-peaked the batteries at 8 amps. Gave my car a ton of rip at the start of the race but I am sure it's hard on the batteries.

Can't wait for the next race!!
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Old 12-04-2005, 04:37 PM   #16024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
I noticed slop mainly in the lower pivot ball and the upper a-arm. Grab a hold of your front wheel and start wiggling and just figure out what's doing it. Keep an eye on your springs and watch for them to develop play, over time they will start to collapse. When you replace them make sure you shim any play out but don't create pre-load.

When I switched over to the Hyperform car I was using the CRC front end parts and I was really pleased with them. The aluminum castor blocks where very straight and the delrin upper arms provided less wear for sure. I felt doing the CRC front end parts was a decent deal and it was by far the most consistent strut front end I have ever run.

Here is a picture of it on my old Hyperform rig:
http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...chmentid=84393

Have fun,
Nick
if only crc makes lowered front arm.... which they can if they want to. i hate buying parts from two different sites.
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Old 12-04-2005, 05:40 PM   #16025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
what part of the front end developes slop
It is usually the lower arms at the pivot ball that cause me the most problems. I have seen that GPM has alm. lower arms that use the upper plastic pivot ball mounts, witch are cheaper to replace . does any one have any experience with them?
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Old 12-04-2005, 05:57 PM   #16026
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is driving a 12th scale any different than driving a 10th scake. also has anyone have luck w/ the CEFX C12?
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Old 12-04-2005, 05:58 PM   #16027
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Just grind you arms down
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:03 PM   #16028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae4ever
It is usually the lower arms at the pivot ball that cause me the most problems. I have seen that GPM has alm. lower arms that use the upper plastic pivot ball mounts, witch are cheaper to replace . does any one have any experience with them?
so theres going to be a link between the lower arm and the pivot mount which will strip easily from a collision.
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:04 PM   #16029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _nick_
Just grind you arms down
i tried doing my own but always comes out uneven. id rather pay a lil extra then having a +10 camber
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Old 12-04-2005, 07:10 PM   #16030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
When Chris said that JRRC had turned in an 11 second lap last Wednesday and in practice Saturday morning, no one was even close to an 11 second lap, I thought JRRC was still a step ahead of all of us. But in the main, five of the ten drivers all got into the 11 second range.

1. Chris (the winner) - one lap at 11.997
2. Ruben (nice run Ruben for never getting to play much) - 11.939
3. Aaron Biner (Aaron did have one lap in the 11's on his last qual) - 11.907
6. OD (second fastest lap of the day) - 11.904 and...
Last Place, (you gots to finish to win, Crashby) - 11.760

After my batteries peaked and during the last main before our main, I re-peaked the batteries at 8 amps. Gave my car a ton of rip at the start of the race but I am sure it's hard on the batteries.

Can't wait for the next race!!


Steve,

I'm right with you, I'm looking forward to the next race too. My car was not that good on the final (or all day even), I really need some ideas for tightening up my front end it's horrendously sloppy. OD mentioned something about Bud's parts in the front end and I did find the BRP web site but they had nothing that I could see that would be usefull. Car was slow too I think my stock motors are getting tired, they are about 8 months old now and it was easy to see on the track. As you can tell from my fast lap time, things were not optimal for me. That race win was purely luck, I had a good start and rode it all the way home. All things being equal, the men to beat right now are JRRC and Crashby, but I'll take the luck when I can get it.

Please anyone, suggestions for reduced slop on the new style associated front end would be welcome, I'm running it on a Rev 4.

Chris
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Old 12-04-2005, 07:44 PM   #16031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
my car does have the T plate. its a Kawada M300SP. I am confused with the droop in 12th scale... can you explain it a bit?
thanks


The droop I am talking about is really the length of the center shock. If the shock is long then you will have droop if it is shorter then the amount of droop is less.

If you pick up your car from the front end and look to see if your rear pod is lower. You would have to hold the car let's say with your left hand looking at the car from it's side at eye level. Look at the rear pod to see if it droops lower than your main chassis. That is what the droop is.

More droop in my case gives me less on power steering. An almost level rear pod in relation to the main chassis will give you more on power steering.

Let me know if how it works or if there is the other things that I mentioned earlier that may cause your loose car.
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Old 12-04-2005, 07:53 PM   #16032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picco007
The droop I am talking about is really the length of the center shock. If the shock is long then you will have droop if it is shorter then the amount of droop is less.

If you pick up your car from the front end and look to see if your rear pod is lower. You would have to hold the car let's say with your left hand looking at the car from it's side at eye level. Look at the rear pod to see if it droops lower than your main chassis. That is what the droop is.

More droop in my case gives me less on power steering. An almost level rear pod in relation to the main chassis will give you more on power steering.

Let me know if how it works or if there is the other things that I mentioned earlier that may cause your loose car.
Picco,

Interesting info there, this weekend I found myself adjusting the center shock spring tension for a couple of races until I realised one of the ball sockets was unscrewing. i must admit I did not pay much attension to the change in handling, I'll have to pay attention to that.

Chris.
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:06 PM   #16033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picco007
The droop I am talking about is really the length of the center shock. If the shock is long then you will have droop if it is shorter then the amount of droop is less.

If you pick up your car from the front end and look to see if your rear pod is lower. You would have to hold the car let's say with your left hand looking at the car from it's side at eye level. Look at the rear pod to see if it droops lower than your main chassis. That is what the droop is.

More droop in my case gives me less on power steering. An almost level rear pod in relation to the main chassis will give you more on power steering.

Let me know if how it works or if there is the other things that I mentioned earlier that may cause your loose car.
Thanks for the info picco007; that bit of info is very useful indeed
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:42 PM   #16034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Steve,

I'm right with you, I'm looking forward to the next race too. My car was not that good on the final (or all day even), I really need some ideas for tightening up my front end it's horrendously sloppy. OD mentioned something about Bud's parts in the front end and I did find the BRP web site but they had nothing that I could see that would be usefull. Car was slow too I think my stock motors are getting tired, they are about 8 months old now and it was easy to see on the track. As you can tell from my fast lap time, things were not optimal for me. That race win was purely luck, I had a good start and rode it all the way home. All things being equal, the men to beat right now are JRRC and Crashby, but I'll take the luck when I can get it.

Please anyone, suggestions for reduced slop on the new style associated front end would be welcome, I'm running it on a Rev 4.

Chris
You may just have to replace the majority of the parts in the front end. Sometimes just replacing the balls in the upper eyelet and the lower A arm will eliminate most of the slop. When I looked at your front end, it looks like you may have to replace the steering block as well. Niftech makes bronze balls for the upper eyelet and the lower A arm and RC4Less also has the balls that are Teflon coated. I have not used the stock plastic kit balls in years. Start with new balls and new steering blocks.
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:48 PM   #16035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Please anyone, suggestions for reduced slop on the new style associated front end would be welcome, I'm running it on a Rev 4.
The best way to take the slop out of a Rev.4 front end is to run the old school setup
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