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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-04-2005, 06:26 AM   #16006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Is your car totally stock?
im lookin to get one
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:40 AM   #16007
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guys.. may I know why 1/12th scale are prode to spinning? I mean when coming out of corner.
Could this be due to diff is too tight? or any other tips??
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Old 12-04-2005, 06:49 AM   #16008
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Could be your diff is too tight. But if you have a t-plate car, you may not have enough droop in your car (rear pod hangs a little lower than your chassis). It also could be tweak or the distance from center of your car to the outside of each wheel could be off too.

There are a number of things that can be the cause of this type of problem. Hope you find out what it is.
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:39 AM   #16009
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my car does have the T plate. its a Kawada M300SP. I am confused with the droop in 12th scale... can you explain it a bit?
thanks
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:32 AM   #16010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
my car does have the T plate. its a Kawada M300SP. I am confused with the droop in 12th scale... can you explain it a bit?
thanks
If it's spinning in just one direction (say left turns only) then it's something to do with the balance of the car, tweak, uneven width etc. If it's spinning all the time then it's most likely just a setup problem.

Please post your setup and describe the track to us.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:50 AM   #16011
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Nick-C, how did you come up with that avatar. I like it.
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Old 12-04-2005, 12:27 PM   #16012
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what would be a good body and tires for a 12L4? also what about a general setup. what part snormaly break on the 12L4? thx for the help
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Old 12-04-2005, 12:39 PM   #16013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Nick-C, how did you come up with that avatar. I like it.
It's something I made a year or so ago, it was 100x100 pixels and I am so lazy that I just shrunk it to fit over here. What can I say, I have a strange sense of humor and way too much time on my hands.
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Old 12-04-2005, 12:52 PM   #16014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
what would be a good body and tires for a 12L4? also what about a general setup. what part snormaly break on the 12L4? thx for the help
I went between the Parma Speed 8 and the Protoform Speed 12 quite a bit and really liked the way the Protoform body worked for me. As far as tires what surface are you racing on and in what class?

The car is quite durable as long as you aren't making hitting boards too much of a habit. You will want to have some T-Plates on hand, that's usually where the car will break under a hard side/rear hit. The biggest problem with the L4 in my opinion is wear parts. You need to keep an eye on your front end and take care of slop as it develops and don't be afraid to throw away T-Plates. You are racing a very small car that goes very fast and all of those little wobbles and flexes add up and make for a very erratic car.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:02 PM   #16015
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What spur do you peeps run in stock on medium sized track using a monster stock motor? What is a good rollout for that motor? I have a 3.2r and use the 100t spur it came with and wondered what is a good brand spur to run.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:12 PM   #16016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
I went between the Parma Speed 8 and the Protoform Speed 12 quite a bit and really liked the way the Protoform body worked for me. As far as tires what surface are you racing on and in what class?

The car is quite durable as long as you aren't making hitting boards too much of a habit. You will want to have some T-Plates on hand, that's usually where the car will break under a hard side/rear hit. The biggest problem with the L4 in my opinion is wear parts. You need to keep an eye on your front end and take care of slop as it develops and don't be afraid to throw away T-Plates. You are racing a very small car that goes very fast and all of those little wobbles and flexes add up and make for a very erratic car.
running a stcok putnam monster stock and on a smooth tight technical fast ozite carpet track
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:16 PM   #16017
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what part of the front end developes slop
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:20 PM   #16018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
What spur do you peeps run in stock on medium sized track using a monster stock motor? What is a good rollout for that motor? I have a 3.2r and use the 100t spur it came with and wondered what is a good brand spur to run.
I am a Kimbrough fan through and through. Always found them to run a lot smoother (you can just hear it) and they last. Running 100t in stock with pinions in the 26-30 range all depending on motor and tire. Take some practice time and just work the rollout on the track, it's almost impossible for someone to nail it without being there.

Nick
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:25 PM   #16019
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Nick-C:

Dude, I just saw your Avatar!
ROTF!
I always knew they had something going!
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:29 PM   #16020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
running a stcok putnam monster stock and on a smooth tight technical fast ozite carpet track
When I was running an L4 this was my basic starting point for just about every place I ran.

Front:
10 Degree Castor Blocks
One Shim On Each Side
1 Degree Camber
.020 Springs
Purple Tires (About 1/2 Sauced)

Rear:
Thick T-Plate
Light Lube On The Discs (5,000wt Or So)
Blue Shock Spring With 50wt Oil
Batteries All The Way Back
Grey Tires (Full Sauced)

Depending on the track you might want to go softer on the shock spring, the blue may not be where it's at. If you find the car pushing you might want to try the batteries forward. It's all about taking a little practice time to figure out what's going to work best for your particular track.
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