R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-02-2005, 03:11 PM   #15976
Tech Elite
 
mtveten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,632
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

So I have been told that I need to ca the sidewalls of the 12th scale fronts and rears but how much of the sidewall to I need to glue and what is the best way to do this?

Mark
mtveten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 03:24 PM   #15977
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I true my tires and round the edges then mount them up on the car. In the rear I take the pinion off and rotate the axle while the nozzle of a CA bottle is just touching the surface of the side wall. I tiny squeeze to get the glue flowing is all it takes. Capillary action with draw out the CA you need to coat the side wall. Start at the rim an spiral out to where you rounded the tire. All you need is a little bit. Your side wall should look matte black not shiny from the rim up to half of the radius where you rounded the tires.

If your side walls look shiny put them on the truer and sand off the CA and start over. Shiny side wall are too thick/hard and will crack and chunk in crashes. Matte black side wall are still flexible but they have a protective CA crust to reduce chunking that reduces traction and make the car nicer to drive.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 03:32 PM   #15978
Tech Elite
 
fjm9898's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 3,003
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

yea take it from me.... shiny is bad. one of my rears a cunked like crazy after the first run after i CA'ed them.... well there goes 20 bucks
__________________
Xray '007 US and a bunch of other outdated stuff
fjm9898 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 04:09 PM   #15979
Tech Adept
 
Numskull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: IN THE WOODS
Posts: 116
Default

dose anty one no where to get old 1/12 scale ,associated parts.older then the L3.not shear of the tipe.
Numskull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 04:13 PM   #15980
Tech Adept
 
Numskull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: IN THE WOODS
Posts: 116
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
He's all ready to get bashed upon ..,
let the bashing begean:lol .my 12th is ready with a new paint job to make it fair. JayBeeare you runing on sunday?how about 27t?
Numskull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 08:15 PM   #15981
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Numskull
dose anty one no where to get old 1/12 scale ,associated parts.older then the L3.not shear of the tipe.
What parts do you need?
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 08:52 PM   #15982
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by barry
can anyone tell me what is the ratio of a 10t motor with 6cells on a 12th scale? thanks
I don't think anyone answered your question, Barry.

Try starting out at 23 pinion and 100 spur. It really is all about roll out. With that motor I would start at a 38mm roll out and then go higher if you still have battery left at the end of a solid eight minute run.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 09:07 PM   #15983
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Do you guys think it helps your driving if you practice with a faster motor, meaning if you normally race stock then do you think practicing with a 19T would be beneficial?
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 09:18 PM   #15984
Tech Addict
 
Jammin'Trey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bennington, Ne
Posts: 404
Send a message via ICQ to Jammin'Trey
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Do you guys think it helps your driving if you practice with a faster motor, meaning if you normally race stock then do you think practicing with a 19T would be beneficial?

I got bored with stock aftergoing to 19t I love speed !

But You do get faster running 19t because your thought process gets faster and so do your reaction times. This was how it is for me.
Jammin'Trey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 09:23 PM   #15985
Tech Elite
 
GrandeGixxer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 2,407
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I feel like it messes with your timing. Your brain kinda tells you when you need to make a turn, and if your car slows down it may make it harder to drive.
GrandeGixxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 09:23 PM   #15986
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Do you guys think it helps your driving if you practice with a faster motor, meaning if you normally race stock then do you think practicing with a 19T would be beneficial?
Absolutely!! If you don't tear the car up first.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 09:28 PM   #15987
Tech Master
 
barnacle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: FL
Posts: 1,602
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Does anybody know the Yokomo part number for the blue aluminum dampner post that is threaded up top. I think it comes with there latest kit. Basically an aluminum copy of what comes with the 12L4.

Thanks
__________________
Mike Dobbs
Race Opt MTS T'2
WWW.DISCHARGERC.COM
U.S. DISTRIBUTOR FOR RACE OPT BRAND
barnacle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2005, 11:37 PM   #15988
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,015
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Please, please, please tell me that is @ 5V
Yes, it is at 5V.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2005, 03:14 AM   #15989
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Numskull
let the bashing begean:lol .my 12th is ready with a new paint job to make it fair. JayBeeare you runing on sunday?how about 27t?
I ran 27t tonight; did pretty good too- won 2 out of 3 heats, then won the main (glad ritchie decided not to run ) First time out with the car too. I think my sedan's taking a lil' bit of a breather
__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2005, 07:42 AM   #15990
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Do you guys think it helps your driving if you practice with a faster motor, meaning if you normally race stock then do you think practicing with a 19T would be beneficial?
Like swinging a heavy bat in the on-deck circle. Running a 19T in 12th scale helped my stock sedan driving considerably. I would say that's a definite YES.

Then again, once you run the 19T, you will hate the stock motor. I'm not going back to stock in my sedan after running the 19T motor.
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:25 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0