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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-28-2005, 07:18 AM   #15871
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A guy I race with used the Kimbrough covers, they worked good but he thought they didnt let the rear axle spin as free as without.
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Old 11-28-2005, 07:29 AM   #15872
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Does anybody know where I can get the quick release shock mount??
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Old 11-28-2005, 07:54 AM   #15873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineburner
Does anybody know where I can get the quick release shock mount??
There is a quick release shock mount?

That would be wonderfull, im tired of destroying ball cups using pliers to get the shock on and off.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:00 AM   #15874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-B
A guy I race with used the Kimbrough covers, they worked good but he thought they didnt let the rear axle spin as free as without.
The Kimbrough covers don't touch the working parts. They just partially cover the area of the diff balls and exposed rings to ward off some grit and carpet material. And they do add that fraction of an ounce to the drivetrain.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:30 AM   #15875
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Default quick release shock mount.

I dont know the part number but theisgroup, (I beleive thats who it was) recommended some x-ray parts. Every time I take my shock out all I need is a 3mm. I will look tonight for the part number.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:54 AM   #15876
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here is a pic of the instruction manual for the xray and the parts I used. Since I run an xray, I had these available to me. may cost a pretty penny if you had to buy all the parts. make sure you cut the ball cup down so that it does not bind on anything.
Attached Files
File Type: zip xray.zip (31.1 KB, 119 views)
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:56 AM   #15877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineburner
Does anybody know where I can get the quick release shock mount??
the plane guys have one that you can use. visit you lhs and as the plane guys for a quick release ball cup.

I use the lower part of an xray shock. it was cheap for me. had it in my pit box
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:05 AM   #15878
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Default Couple of questions

It has been so long since I have raced 12th scale that I need a little help. I can't remember what angling the t-bar does. For example,

Raised in front:
Raised in rear:

Now this is the tough question, what does adjusting the height of the damper tubes? For example,

Raising the outer:
Lower the inner:

Thanks guys, just need to freshen up on a couple things, hoping to make it to Snowbirds and then back to running my XB8 for the national races in 2006.
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Old 11-28-2005, 10:21 AM   #15879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Joor
It has been so long since I have raced 12th scale that I need a little help. I can't remember what angling the t-bar does. For example,

Raised in front:
Raised in rear:

Now this is the tough question, what does adjusting the height of the damper tubes? For example,

Raising the outer:
Lower the inner:

Thanks guys, just need to freshen up on a couple things, hoping to make it to Snowbirds and then back to running my XB8 for the national races in 2006.
For your first question as to putting a small washer under the pivot ball? If you put the washer under the front pivot ball, it puts a small pre-load condition on the T bar when the car is at rest, fully prepped, ready to go onto the track and the chassis and rear pod is on the same plane. Some feel that by doing this you can create a little more forward bite from the rear tires. I have tried it both ways many times and I cannot feel the difference.

As to your second question about the angle of the dampener tubes, I always try to set the angle so that I get the most movement of the piston in the tube. I feel that I get the most consistent dampening that way. You may have to adjust the weight of the lube you are using. For example, on the Trinity Reflex 12, the dampener tubes, in the stock position, move very little. To get more effect from the dampener tubes on the Reflex 12, I had to use a littler higher weight lube in the tubes. On my Rev.4, because the dampener tubes have a lot of movement in them, I can use a little lighter lube than on the Reflex 12.

I have found that all of this "fine" tuning is an inexact science and that testing changes on the track provide the most significant findings. While someone else’s setup might give you a starting point, it may not be the perfect setup for you. Only when you understand your driving skill, preferences and how changes affect the handling of the car, will you be able to perform at your optimum.
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:12 PM   #15880
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Thanks, Just need to know what the basic geometry changes do is all. I got everything else covered

What your saying is on the tbar is,

Raised in front: Gives more steering off power and less on
Raised in rear: Give less steering off power and more on

On the damper tubes I am asking about adjusting angle on 1 particular car, not length of stroke or thickness of lube from car to car. Or did I misunderstand your reply.

Yes I understand testing is best, that is what I do, but during the week I only get to mentally masturbate (table race) my car so I wanted some material to look at.
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:27 PM   #15881
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CRC's new High Rollers?

Anyone try them yet?

My personal experience is that Jacos are too fragle for me and TRC's are up to speed yet my doors are still open for a tire company... GQ's aren't on our shores yet but an option when they do make it here.

So back to the root question; anyone try the new CRC High Rollers?
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:36 PM   #15882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deznuts05
CRC's new High Rollers?

Anyone try them yet?

My personal experience is that Jacos are too fragle for me and TRC's are up to speed yet my doors are still open for a tire company... GQ's aren't on our shores yet but an option when they do make it here.

So back to the root question; anyone try the new CRC High Rollers?
There were lots of people running them in Cleveland last week including myself. To get the car to work I still had to cut them down, out of the box the diameter was creating handling issues. After talking with Bruce Carbone he pointed out the the increased size was altering the roll center of the car too much. Once we ripped them down to 1.65-1.68 front and 1.75 rear they worked quite well. Had I packed enough ahead of time I would have just stuck with Jaco 's on the car.

In my limited mind, not bad but didn't have anything going for it. Jaco works and the new wheels are very durable, why fix what isn't broken?
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:47 PM   #15883
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thanks Nick-C for your post.

Nick-C I have a question, you mentioned that Jaco's have a new wheel? do you have a pic of it? The reason I ask is because I've went threw 2 set in one club race and was not impressed by their build.

The neon Green/yellow TRC rear rims held up great but just like any consumer I tired the Jacos and I really like how they made my car handle; however I found that the Rear rims were very easy to crack.

Now are you saying that Jaco came out with a new wheel that is mounted with the regular stage 1 compunds?

Thanks
Rudy
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:54 PM   #15884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Joor
Thanks, Just need to know what the basic geometry changes do is all. I got everything else covered

What your saying is on the tbar is,

Raised in front: Gives more steering off power and less on
Raised in rear: Give less steering off power and more on

On the damper tubes I am asking about adjusting angle on 1 particular car, not length of stroke or thickness of lube from car to car. Or did I misunderstand your reply.

Yes I understand testing is best, that is what I do, but during the week I only get to mentally masturbate (table race) my car so I wanted some material to look at.
You have the T bar washer part correct but backwards. Just reverse your definition.

What I try and do with the dampener tubes is get as close to a 1:1 ratio of movement between the tubes and the motor pod.
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Old 11-28-2005, 01:16 PM   #15885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deznuts05
thanks Nick-C for your post.

Nick-C I have a question, you mentioned that Jaco's have a new wheel? do you have a pic of it? The reason I ask is because I've went threw 2 set in one club race and was not impressed by their build.

The neon Green/yellow TRC rear rims held up great but just like any consumer I tired the Jacos and I really like how they made my car handle; however I found that the Rear rims were very easy to crack.

Now are you saying that Jaco came out with a new wheel that is mounted with the regular stage 1 compunds?

Thanks
Rudy
I think Jaco just improved the durability of their wheels after having a bad batch of two, they don't look any different as far as I know.
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