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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-23-2005, 03:05 PM   #15781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
Is everyone running blue/green or green/green in the monsters?
I prefer purple on both sides gives the motor a little mot push out of the corners.
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:32 PM   #15782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecrow2k
V.Nice
Im looking at 12th scales as I recently went to a National event. Im keeping a eye open though incase Its just a phase of wanting something because of the novelty. Although 12th scale is increasing popularity at our club. What is the cheapest kit you can buy brand new that can be competitive?
i have a carpet knife 3.1 on the shelf for 149.99
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:38 PM   #15783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The front end on my car is IRS. A really nice set up when I built it but now I think the CRC front end is better, but less adjustable. The IRS gets some slop in it when it wears a little.
When I built the car I wanted to keep all the aluminum blue so I used an IRS diff, the stock diff sucks because it only uses six balls. For performance the best diff is from Niftech.
The pivot balls form Niftech (for the front suspension and the t-bar) are heavy but fit tighter than others I've tried. The set-up tool from Niftech really works great and is quick although you can do the same with a good set of calipers (that being said I always use the Niftech tool).
From Niftech:
Diff, rings, right side hub (the left side hub will make your car too wide)
pivot balls
diff balls (if you use steel-I do not)
diff lube in the syringe
micro bearing oil

BTW-cut two slots in the chassis next to the t-bar so you can tape the cells in two on each side-much more secure.

tell jay bee all of these are available from his local track except the niftech tool which i can get
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:46 PM   #15784
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:47 PM   #15785
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it the kimbrough servo saver for airtronics the same as for jr?
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:54 PM   #15786
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Houdini, do you have any pics of the car? Is it in good shape? Does it come with any spare parts?
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:24 PM   #15787
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The 3.1 Houdini is refering to is brand new kit.
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:51 PM   #15788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
it the kimbrough servo saver for airtronics the same as for jr?
The Kimbrough #113 servo saver for Airtronics and KO has 23 splines. The #114 for Futaba has 25 splines and the #131 for Hitec has 24. I couldn't find a reference to which one fits the JR so you may have to count the splines.
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:39 PM   #15789
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23T for JR, KO, and Airtronics. 24T for Hitec and 25T for Futaba.

Mark
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:41 PM   #15790
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thanks!
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:45 PM   #15791
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Has anyone tried the CRC C60 Evo3 LMP body? Looks like it has alot of overall downforce.

-Korey
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:55 PM   #15792
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does anyone know the spring rates for team crc side springs and center springs in-order from soft to hard? why wont they include this in the package?
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Old 11-23-2005, 08:22 PM   #15793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
does anyone know the spring rates for team crc side springs and center springs in-order from soft to hard? why wont they include this in the package?
From softest to hardest: orange, blue, white, red, green, purple.
Same as Speedmerchant, and orange is NLA.

This is to the best of my recollection, it doesn't seem to be published anywhere anymore.
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Old 11-23-2005, 08:46 PM   #15794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
From softest to hardest: orange, blue, white, red, green, purple.
Same as Speedmerchant, and orange is NLA.

This is to the best of my recollection, it doesn't seem to be published anywhere anymore.

thank you! what about the center springs?
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Old 11-23-2005, 08:53 PM   #15795
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Here's what I have in my notebook on springs. It's kinda been collected over time from a few different places. Hopefully, this can help others out, too...

Center spring: Preload on the center spring is used only for setting ride height. if you want the car stiffer or softer, you need to change the spring. A stiffer center spring usually makes the car steer more in the middle and exit of the corner (accelerating). The only place this really doesn't hold true is if the track is very bumpy. Because the car is too stiff, it is chattering in the bumps and losing traction.

More mid/exit steering: stiffer spring
Less mid/exit steering: lighter spring

Olive Green: 6 lbs
Silver VCS: 8 lbs
Blue: 10 lbs
Gold: 12 lbs
Red: 14 lbs
Copper: 16 lbs
CRC Stiff Silver
CRC Super Stiff Silver



Side spings: Side springs control how reactive the car is around center. Stiffer springs equal more initial turn in, less chassis roll and more steering response (although most noticeable around apex).

More entrance steering: stiffer side spring
Less entrance steering: lighter side spring

Blue: soft
White: medium
Red: firm
Green: x-firm
Purple: xx-firm


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