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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-23-2005, 09:00 AM   #15766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
2 runs on a 767 in a 12th scale car? What the hell are you doing to them?
I use a pretty long break-in to seat the brushes fully. Then once I notice the serrations are almost gone on the positive side(heavier tension) I rebuild which is usually around 2-3 runs after the break-in.
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:05 AM   #15767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
What brushes are most of you guys using in your Monsters. I bought 5 pairs of F-Brushes tonight and after doing so kinda thought maybe there was a better brush for 1/12th... Anything else I should try for comparison sake?
Run the H-brushes, thay work great in the monster, and last alot longer too. Don't run suraided brushes, you com doesent las as long. If you do get H-brushes fiel the leading edge down a little for less drag. Not only does you come last but you dont have to rebuild it as much, and it goes alot faster.
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:06 AM   #15768
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most of the time, you can just re-serate the brush and they are good to go. some brushes seam to loose something after the serations are gone.
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:08 AM   #15769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
I use a pretty long break-in to seat the brushes fully. Then once I notice the serrations are almost gone on the positive side(heavier tension) I rebuild which is usually around 2-3 runs after the break-in.
Well that explains a lot. Not to get too far into a motor discussion, but you might be abusing and using up your brushes before you ever get to the track. To me, a 767 is one of the longer lasting, high performance brush I have used. I get 6-8 4-cell runs on a set of brushes and the serrations aren't even gone. 200 seconds at 2 amps with a com drop on each brush is all you need for a 767 to work perfectly on a fresh cut com.

Maybe it's just me, but your type of maintenance isn't normal with a 767 Reedy brush.
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:14 AM   #15770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Well that explains a lot. Not to get too far into a motor discussion, but you might be abusing and using up your brushes before you ever get to the track. To me, a 767 is one of the longer lasting, high performance brush I have used. I get 6-8 4-cell runs on a set of brushes and the serrations aren't even gone. 200 seconds at 2 amps with a com drop on each brush is all you need for a 767 to work perfectly on a fresh cut com.

Maybe it's just me, but your type of maintenance isn't normal with a 767 Reedy brush.
Thanks for the tips Apex, I guess I'm on so used to my routine with my sedan it has just carried over to 1/12. I will try your method this weekend and see what happens.
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:17 AM   #15771
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12l4newb,
I highly recommend the slapmaster thrust bearing. It is heavier but it massively reduces maintenance. If you crash a lot (like me) the loads exerted on the original non-thrust bearing tend to damage it very quickly resulting in a notchy diff action. If you dont crash then it should not be a problem....
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:01 AM   #15772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartarse88
12l4newb,
I highly recommend the slapmaster thrust bearing. It is heavier but it massively reduces maintenance. If you crash a lot (like me) the loads exerted on the original non-thrust bearing tend to damage it very quickly resulting in a notchy diff action. If you dont crash then it should not be a problem....
thanks for the input. im slowly cutting back on the number of wrecks but it does seam like the thrust bearing might be a good option for me. How do you go about ordering from these guys. I dont notice anyway to do it on their site. do you just email them?
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:07 AM   #15773
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Think that is what I did, got a few sent to the UK, good guy to deal with.
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:16 AM   #15774
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You can send a PM to "slapmaster6000" on here, or send him an email (blbodine@comcast.net ).
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:33 AM   #15775
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i personally know brian. he is a great guy. send him a email. he is not always on RCTech so he might not get the PM for a few days.
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:41 AM   #15776
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I find it funny how I can get 10 runs plus on brushes and they are getting better not worse. I can honestly say that the only brush I ever ran 2 times and then threw it out was the old 4499's I had almost 20 runs on 767s in my TC4 and the only reason I changed them was because I was a knucklehead and ran my motor up to almost 200 deg...that discolored those brushes
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Old 11-23-2005, 12:26 PM   #15777
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I agree, Bob. I get 4 to 6 8-minute runs on a motor, then skim the comm, clean the brushes, remove the edges and put everything back together. I have a set of 767s in my Reedy 19T that have over 15 runs on them, and they still look perfect.

You don't need to break them in that long, they don't need to be 100% "seated" to perform VERY well.
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Old 11-23-2005, 01:05 PM   #15778
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how do you clean the brushes?
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Old 11-23-2005, 01:14 PM   #15779
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I use a fiberglass stick/brush to just remove the glaze on the brush face. Wipe them off with a clean rag, file the leading and trailing edge off and put them back in the motor. Depending on the shape of the brush face I am using at the time (timed, trimmed, hole, etc), I may re-shape the brush to be what I need them to look like.

For me, with stock and 19T motors, I try to keep the motor work on race day to a minimum, and most of the things I do with a motor are taken from Big Jim's theories on race motor prep. Even though the guy had little tact with people on the internet and had very few "people skills", his motor work is legendary, and definitely worth listening to. Eddie O is a big believer in his concepts, and Team BrOOd has an awful lot of hardware to prove that he knows what he's doing. Big Jim's Black Book, and the info found on www.rccars.com is invaluable.


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Old 11-23-2005, 02:53 PM   #15780
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Bill, I probaly wont be seeing you any time soon, youll be too busy building those new kits!! I really have to get over to Stockton soon its been too long since racing there. At Gilroy they have been running stock and 19 turn in the same heats, but more stock than 19 turn. I wish we could get a strong, steady 12th scale group racing there. Hope to see you soon, Happy Thanksgiving. Big Bill
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