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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-21-2005, 04:53 PM   #15676
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Default reviving old tires

I've found that Niftech tire compound does a good job of re-conditioning old rubber. Put it on heavy and let it dry, you'll be surprised how much better the tire feels.
I did this on an old transmitter wheel donut that was hard as a rock and it actually made it soft again.
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Old 11-21-2005, 04:56 PM   #15677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
Yeah, where exactly do you put the CA?
Put the ca on the pin where it goes through the aluminm block, that is where the slop occurs. You have to be careful not to get it in the plastic upper arm. The arms do wear and can be replaced, but the pivot holes in the blocks get loose much faster.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:09 PM   #15678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Put the ca on the pin where it goes through the aluminm block, that is where the slop occurs. You have to be careful not to get it in the plastic upper arm. The arms do wear and can be replaced, but the pivot holes in the blocks get loose much faster.
dont make any sense at all, there is no aluminum block in the dynamic front end, what pin? kingpin? the slop occurs at the lower arm where the pivot ball sits, it has a gap thats why its moving up and down.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:43 PM   #15679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
dont make any sense at all, there is no aluminum block in the dynamic front end, what pin? kingpin? the slop occurs at the lower arm where the pivot ball sits, it has a gap thats why its moving up and down.
He was speaking of the A arm pivot pin on the IRS front end. It was in response to my advise that although I used it on my YRX12-WE, it does get loose. The pivot ball slop was another discussion.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:45 PM   #15680
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ohh ok. i got mixed up there.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:50 PM   #15681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Put the ca on the pin where it goes through the aluminm block, that is where the slop occurs. You have to be careful not to get it in the plastic upper arm. The arms do wear and can be replaced, but the pivot holes in the blocks get loose much faster.
OD missed the question completely.

Everyone wants to know how to take the slop out of the pivot balls in the lower control arms and the upper eyelet.

What Kevin said to do is put some CA on the ball, let it dry, and then pop it back into the lower control arm and upper eyelet. Of course, remembering to press the ball in through the larger hole. Then insert the kingpin and work the ball around until it is free. Slop all gone! Eventually you will have to replace everything as that is a one or two time fix only.
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:15 PM   #15682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
OD missed the question completely.

Everyone wants to know how to take the slop out of the pivot balls in the lower control arms and the upper eyelet.

What Kevin said to do is put some CA on the ball, let it dry, and then pop it back into the lower control arm and upper eyelet. Of course, remembering to press the ball in through the larger hole. Then insert the kingpin and work the ball around until it is free. Slop all gone! Eventually you will have to replace everything as that is a one or two time fix only.
hey what was size of the paino wire you use for right hight?
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:29 PM   #15683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz_S
hey what was size of the paino wire you use for right hight?
It's 3mm drill blank.
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:33 PM   #15684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
We have been racing with our batteries set up like on the L4 for 20 years with no huge problems. What tape are you using? Did you round the edges of the carbon chassis where the tape goes?
Using 3M fiber glass tap, the tap didn't cutoff by chassis. On my EP TC it works perfectly.

Adrian did you glue the battery together? I didn't glue them and is using ultra-soft LRP bridge, already got 5 or so LRP bridge snap into 2 pieces after crash.
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:34 PM   #15685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
OD missed the question completely.
I didn't miss anything. JayBee asked what front end I have on my YRX12-WE. I told him it is the IRS front end but it is prone to getting loose. Serpenracer1 posted that he puts some ca on the pin, which is just what I do. Dakrat was talking about pivot balls, not me. Now go back in the basement
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:41 PM   #15686
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my L4 chassis is bent and there is a crack on it as well. So i need to get a new chassis. Just wondering if i should just get a replacement L4 chassis or should i go for some conversion kit?

The car will be for outdoor asphalt mod only (i have a CRC Carpet knife for indoor). And i want to keep it a T-bar car. So what would you guys suggest?
Should i just get an AE replacement chassis? or go for a conversion kit? (and which one?)

My L4 was handling like a dream before the damage and I don't want to spend too much money unless there is a real benefit. (like no need to use tape)

Suggestions/comments are welcome!
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:42 PM   #15687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I didn't miss anything. JayBee asked what front end I have on my YRX12-WE. I told him it is the IRS front end but it is prone to getting loose. Serpenracer1 posted that he puts some ca on the pin, which is just what I do. Dakrat was talking about pivot balls, not me. Now go back in the basement
OD since you own YRX12-WE, do you think it's no good for asphalt track with too many corner but for smooth high speed asphalt track? I saw your comment on how YRX12-WE performed on asphalt but my track is indoor asphalt (yep) and it's quite small, 10T is same speed with 23T (just too many sharp lowspeed corner ). Kind wonder if longer wheel base and outter weight displacement will causing drawback in such track.

Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:54 PM   #15688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
my L4 chassis is bent and there is a crack on it as well. So i need to get a new chassis. Just wondering if i should just get a replacement L4 chassis or should i go for some conversion kit?

The car will be for outdoor asphalt mod only (i have a CRC Carpet knife for indoor). And i want to keep it a T-bar car. So what would you guys suggest?
Should i just get an AE replacement chassis? or go for a conversion kit? (and which one?)

My L4 was handling like a dream before the damage and I don't want to spend too much money unless there is a real benefit. (like no need to use tape)

Suggestions/comments are welcome!

if I was in your situation, i would get a bmi convertion but thats just me. but in order to do this, your going to have to reconfigure your batter packs since the battery position is different (horizontal/vertical). IMO its also easier to strap your pack the vertical way.
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:54 PM   #15689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
OD since you own YRX12-WE, do you think it's no good for asphalt track with too many corner but for smooth high speed asphalt track? I saw your comment on how YRX12-WE performed on asphalt but my track is indoor asphalt (yep) and it's quite small, 10T is same speed with 23T (just too many sharp lowspeed corner ). Kind wonder if longer wheel base and outter weight displacement will causing drawback in such track.

Thanks.
Theoretically a car that transitions quickly would be desireable for a track like the one you describe. The reason the Yokomo works so well for me is that it is less reactive and easier to drive. I also have a Hara conversion which would have to be considered the opposite design philosophy for an asphalt car with it's batteries in the center. The car doesn't handle as consistantly for me. I think you have to try both to see what is best for you.
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:58 PM   #15690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
if I was in your situation, i would get a bmi convertion but thats just me. but in order to do this, your going to have to reconfigure your batter packs since the battery position is different (horizontal/vertical). IMO its also easier to strap your pack the vertical way.
but isn't the BMI chassis quite thick and is better for indoor carpet?
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