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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-17-2005, 05:30 PM   #15601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
yea i know that from TC. i just guess i dont get how the yok would have more flex then a l4 since they seem so much alike unless the yok just has the thinner chassis.
The YRX-12WE has a thinner chassis with more cutouts than a 12L4 but the most important difference between the YRX-12WE and the 12L4 is the battery placement. The batteries on the Yokomo are the furthest from the centerline of the car, than any other 1/12th scale car. That feature, along with the more flexible chassis, is what makes the YRX-12WE a very good asphalt car. We did some testing with a 12L4 on asphalt by taping the batteries in the car with them hanging out of the battery slots away from the centerline and the car worked much better on asphalt than with the batteries in the stock position. The car worked so much better that JRRC went out and bought an YRX-12WE that next week!! The regular YRX-12 has the batteries in the same position as the 12L4. Only the WE model has the wider battery spacing.
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Old 11-17-2005, 05:44 PM   #15602
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ahh i got ya. thanks guess somthing like battery from center point was just somthing a bit harder to notice in the pics. how did you get the batteries on a L4 to hang out without them falling out?
also do you think it would be possible to buy the yok chassis and body post bar and toss them on a l4 or is there more? just trying to figure out how to make a l4 a bit more competitive on aspahlt.... just in case
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Old 11-17-2005, 07:10 PM   #15603
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The wheebase on the Yokomo is longer as well.
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Old 11-17-2005, 07:14 PM   #15604
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I moved the batteries as far out (from center) as possible. They were sitting on the battery tray instead in it. I taped them in both left to right as well as front to back. Not pretty, but I learned about polar moment in a 12th scale car.
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Old 11-17-2005, 07:18 PM   #15605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
Not pretty, but I learned about polar moment in a 12th scale car.
could be known as "Having a Senior Polar Moment"...
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Old 11-17-2005, 07:36 PM   #15606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
Does the fibreglass antenna help protect the car in flips? I have noticed that with my DSM I can tuck the antenna under the body with no radio problems but if I remove the fibreglass antenna would I be more likely to break when the car becomes airborn?

Has anybody tried running without the antenna?

Thanks,
Mark
Hi MArk
you can run the car with or without the antenna..the reason having an antenna it to keep the car from rolling......I know that the some where in the
ROAR Rules , the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event.
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Old 11-17-2005, 07:41 PM   #15607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
ahh i got ya. thanks guess somthing like battery from center point was just somthing a bit harder to notice in the pics. how did you get the batteries on a L4 to hang out without them falling out?
also do you think it would be possible to buy the yok chassis and body post bar and toss them on a l4 or is there more? just trying to figure out how to make a l4 a bit more competitive on aspahlt.... just in case
Hi Frank
Keep in mind that the yokomo wheel base is alittle longer than L4
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Last edited by OVA; 11-17-2005 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 11-17-2005, 07:44 PM   #15608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjm9898
ahh i got ya. thanks guess somthing like battery from center point was just somthing a bit harder to notice in the pics. how did you get the batteries on a L4 to hang out without them falling out?
also do you think it would be possible to buy the yok chassis and body post bar and toss them on a l4 or is there more? just trying to figure out how to make a l4 a bit more competitive on aspahlt.... just in case
All you need is the YRX-12WE chassis, chassis cross brace and the lower pod plate. Everything else from the 12L4 will bolt right on theYokomo pieces. Swap back and forth between those parts and you can quickly go from a great carpet car (12L4) to a great asphalt car (YRX-12WE)!!

Like I posted, Stormer has all of the pieces except the chassis. You could probably find the chassis someplace. Maybe one of the Japanese on-line shops.
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Old 11-17-2005, 09:11 PM   #15609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
The YRX-12WE has a thinner chassis with more cutouts than a 12L4 but the most important difference between the YRX-12WE and the 12L4 is the battery placement. The batteries on the Yokomo are the furthest from the centerline of the car, than any other 1/12th scale car. That feature, along with the more flexible chassis, is what makes the YRX-12WE a very good asphalt car. We did some testing with a 12L4 on asphalt by taping the batteries in the car with them hanging out of the battery slots away from the centerline and the car worked much better on asphalt than with the batteries in the stock position. The car worked so much better that JRRC went out and bought an YRX-12WE that next week!! The regular YRX-12 has the batteries in the same position as the 12L4. Only the WE model has the wider battery spacing.
I'm not very familiar with weight transfer in 1/12, but in TC more inline weight placement help car to change direction faster. However I dont really feel the difference of traction.

So by saying moving battery outward on chassis would help 1/12 on asphalt, means better traction? or something else? If the traction is better, would CRC CK have very bad asphalt traction since the bettery is in very center of the car.

I'm curious because I mainly play on asphalt but I dont like saddle battery, but if inline battery would hurt the performance on asphalt, using T-bar seems the only way to go on asphalt...
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Old 11-18-2005, 08:58 AM   #15610
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I am building a new 12th scale (let the hyperdrive go for an addition to my F1 collection) I always us the big ring diff. On my old car I had the IRS version. I now have a CRC and the hub on the oppsite side is huge! Is this to off set weight or should I just use my old lighter one? Thanks
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:19 AM   #15611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA
I know that the some where in the ROAR Rules , the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event.
False. Pan cars have been allowed to run solid rollover antennas for decades.

Here are the 2005 ROAR rules verbatim:

5.2 GENERAL VEHICLE RULES

5.2.4
No roll-over antennas are allowed unless noted in the class rules. Roll-over antennas are defined as any vertical antenna strong or stiff enough to support the weight of the vehicle when resting on the tip of the antenna and one side of the vehicle.

8.2.1
“Roll-over” antennas are allowed in on-road classes only, not in any oval or offroad classes. The exposed ends of such antennas must be fitted with a button or ball having a diameter of at least 5/16".




Just don't want anyone to do something based on incorrect information.
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:35 AM   #15612
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[QUOTE=ApexSpeed]False. Pan cars have been allowed to run solid rollover antennas for decades.

Solid rollover is the same as no roll over antenna

anyway we both saying the same thing.solid rollover must permitted @ ROAR sanction event all pan car
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:41 AM   #15613
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No, you previously wrote: "the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event."

I interpreted your comment to mean that no rollover antennas are allowed at ROAR events. Pan cars are definitely allowed to have rollover antennas at all on-road races, ROAR or not.
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:50 AM   #15614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
No, you previously wrote: "the all pan car must have no roll-over antennas allowed in roar sanctioned event."

I interpreted your comment to mean that no rollover antennas are allowed at ROAR events. Pan cars are definitely allowed to have rollover antennas at all on-road races, ROAR or not.
yes I did said that....I really mean saying is you don't to have the solid antenna as long your not racing roar sanction event.....I do understand the ROAR Rules...Thanks
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Old 11-18-2005, 01:00 PM   #15615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA
yes I did said that....I really mean saying is you don't to have the solid antenna as long your not racing roar sanction event.....I do understand the ROAR Rules...Thanks
I'm guessing it's just a language barrier thing, I knew what you meant, I think...
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