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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-16-2005, 06:21 AM   #15556
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Thanks for the info yok and crash. the metal ruler...... I mean associated tape tool sounds like a good idea.

So far im loving 1/12th scale, and i'm surprised at how durable these little cars are. It seems that the main expense is going to be replacing chunked tires all the time. I read the tip of CA'ing the sides so will have to give that a try.
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:07 AM   #15557
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Definitely CA the sidewalls for more durability. Pretty much eliminates that issue...Assuming you don't hit much.
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:08 AM   #15558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
Steps to building a winning Rev4:

1. Buy kit
2. Give kit to OD
3. Get finished car from OD
4.
OD...OD...OD...
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:46 AM   #15559
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Does the fibreglass antenna help protect the car in flips? I have noticed that with my DSM I can tuck the antenna under the body with no radio problems but if I remove the fibreglass antenna would I be more likely to break when the car becomes airborn?

Has anybody tried running without the antenna?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:58 AM   #15560
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The sole purpose of the fiberglass antenna is to self-right the car if you flip over its supposed to flip you back on your wheels.

You can run without one you'll just be a turtle if you flip your car.
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Old 11-16-2005, 10:56 AM   #15561
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Default Old school slot car solder techniques

hey OD
This is Kevin in Louisiana. You and I enjoyed watching Blackstock chase down Cyril in Vegas. You then left when the Sedans started to race because you didn't want to watch "glorified radio shack cars" race.

You explained your soldering process to me and Ive been practicing but I cant get that really clean solder like you talked about.

Could you post it here?
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:16 AM   #15562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
hey OD
This is Kevin in Louisiana. You and I enjoyed watching Blackstock chase down Cyril in Vegas. You then left when the Sedans started to race because you didn't want to watch "glorified radio shack cars" race.

You explained your soldering process to me and Ive been practicing but I cant get that really clean solder like you talked about.

Could you post it here?
That pretty funny - I race 12th and Touring Car and I have to agree with him they are "glorified radio shack cars" and so are some of their drivers - they sometimes should call the class "glorified radio shack cars racers- with attutides!!!!!!!!"................LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:18 AM   #15563
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I don't get the TC joke... granted I started with a TC (racing wise) and then actually became decent with mirco which lead me to try 12th and I'm ok with...

But I still don't get the TC Joke... anyone?
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:23 AM   #15564
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I suppose it depends upon when you started racing - if you can remember Lake Whiperpool, Laserlite, and just tring to make that 4 minutes before ya' dump.................and going way fast
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:31 AM   #15565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deznuts05
But I still don't get the TC Joke... anyone?
It's just a joke. !/12th cars have been around a lot longer than Touring Cars, so it's just a way of poking fun at the "newcomer". We like to think that 1/12th is superior to TC so likening them to the similar looking toy cars at Radio Shack seems funny to some of us grumpy old men. I don't really have anything against TCs, although thier huge popularity is something of a mystery to me.

The originator of the reference to "Radio Shack Cars" is the original grumpy old man, Steve Ashby (Crashby).
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:37 AM   #15566
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My feeling is 12th takes a little more driving skill - but that's opening another "can of worms"..............
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:46 AM   #15567
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I see... I'm no newbie to the hobbie per-say I still have my TA02... which in my opinion started the TC crazzy but whatever...

as per driving skills... I drove a tweaked tc3 Me =teh suck... bought a micro yes... a xray m18 strapped in a 17t motor and my skills got better and 3months later I jumped onto the 12th crowd because I heard that it's a skill builder... well I am 1sec slower than the rest of the guys but I must credit it back to the TC. And with all the crazzy stock motors I've seen stocks run with laptimes as good as the mod cars and I've seen tc times as good as 12th mod times so ehh... to each their own But Radio shack that's pretty low might as well call them a Tyco or a Nikkion (spelling wasn't my strongest point).

but now I get the joke... yes laughs all around
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Old 11-16-2005, 11:57 AM   #15568
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If you get the chance check out 12th mod at The Gate sometime - now that's fast...............
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:05 PM   #15569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLM2005
If you get the chance check out 12th mod at The Gate sometime - now that's fast...............

right now I'm working my way up to Horsham... if I'm 1sec behind at my club events... I'm sure to be 10 sec behind @ Horsham and anywhere else. Still learning Haste = waste
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:24 PM   #15570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
You explained your soldering process to me and Ive been practicing but I cant get that really clean solder like you talked about.

Could you post it here?
Getting a good solder joint takes a lot of practice. I learned to solder building slot car chassis, the soldering we do in RC is child's play compared to trying to stick a piece of piano wire onto a thick brass plate or a piece of 1095 blue spring steel. The method I use is difficult to master, so I'll post it and another, easier way. As I remember, we were talking about soldering batteries.

OD method:
Clean the ends of the cells by scrubbing with motor spray. Tin the ends of your battery bars, you want enough solder on them to make your joint-you won't add any solder when attaching them to the battery. You also want solder on the sides of the ends of the bars (clear as mud?) Place a tiny drop of acid flux on the battery ends where the bar will sit (only do one bar at a time, or the flux will dry out). Place the bar on the cells and put a little rosin flux on the top of the ends. Hold the bar down with an xacto or whatever, and put the tip of your iron on top of the battery bar end. The iron should have a tiny bit of solder on it to aid heat transfer. When the bar heats up the solder between the bar and the cell will melt, making a perfect joint with a minumum of solder. Inspect the solder joint to make sure that there is a little fillet of solder all the way around the contact point of the bar. Scrub the finished pack with motor spray to remove any trace of flux.

Conventional method:
Scuff the ends of the cells with sand paper (like 3-400 grit), and scrub them with motor spray to remove any sand paper grit. Put rosin flux on the ends of the cells, and tin a spot a little bigger than the contact point of the battery bar. Tin the battery bars with enough solder to complete the joint.
Put some rosin flux on the ends of the cells and place the battery bar on them. Hold the bar down and place the tip of the iron on the top of the contact point of the bar (again with a little solder on it to aid heat transfer). When the solder melts between the bar and the cell, make sure the joint is liquid all the way around, then take the iron off. Check the joint for a good fillet of solder all the way around.

With both methods getting the right amount of solder in the joint is key, and that just takes practice. With the first method you can make packs that look like those Fusion packs that have almost no solder on the bars.

You don't need a giant soldering iron, just a good one. I use a 45watt Hakko #455 with the large chisel tip or an Ungar 50watt with chisel tip. With hot irons like these you should only have the iron on the joint for a few seconds. The acid flux is the kind you get at the slot car shop for building chassis, any kind of rosin flux will do.

Now go build about a hundred packs and you will be a pro!

Last edited by odpurple; 11-16-2005 at 12:35 PM.
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