R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-15-2005, 02:29 PM   #15541
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

the problem with those type of axels is that you can not shim on the inside of the steering spindle. i have found that reducing the front track just by a little has helped the steering of the car on high bite carpet a whole lot. we have a guy in town that take the stock assoc axels and drills and taps them so i can us a screw on the end and then slot the back side for a flat blade screwdriver to hold the axel. I usually shim inside the steering spindle to get the steering i want and then the outside to just take up the slop.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 03:21 PM   #15542
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
He should be happy. He beat my sorry butt.
You said it...you are SORRY
__________________
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 03:24 PM   #15543
P2
Tech Fanatic
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ae4ever
why so harsh guy's, just looking at other options nothings set in stone. any ways, I mite be able to get them in blue and that will definitly make me faster ,and about the font I'm just changing thing up
I'm not being harsh...I just want to know if it was you. I've never seen you in the 1/12 forum before. go ahead and ask your questions
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 05:06 PM   #15544
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 12l4newb
does anyone make a battery retension system for the 12L4? Taping the batteries down is the only thing that I find really annoying about this car so far. fishing the tape under that brace and between the chassis and pod is a real pain in the you know what!
\

It is not that hard, once you get used to taping. What you need is an Associated Tape Tool. At least that is what OD and I call them. It is one of those small, stainless steel rulers. Use the ruler to push the tape down between the batteries and the chassis cross brace.

Here is the procedure:

Put your tape on the car first by inserting the tape up between the cross brace and the chassis. Make sure you only insert enough tape to go across the top of the batteries and not long enough to go through the slot in front of the first cell. The take the rest of the length of tape and smooth it across the bottom of the chassis. Take your Associated Tape Tool (ruler) and poke the tape through the slot in front of the first cell. Pull all of the tape through the slot and stick the end to the front of your roll over antenna. Do both sides this way. Place your battery pack into the car, press down on one of the saddle packs, and pull the short end of the tape down across the cells. Next take the end that you have temporarily stuck to the antenna and pull it down tight across the battery pack and then use the ruler again to push the tape down between the cross brace and the last battery. Pick up the car and looking at the back, you will see the loop that you just pushed trough behind the last cell. Take the ruler and pull the tape down between the chassis and the motor pod plate. Sometimes you have to press down on the motor pod on the side you are taping to pull the tape through the rest of the way. Now pull down on the tape, run it across the bottom of the chassis, and use the ruler again to push it up through the slot in front of the first cell. With these new cells I found that you may have to take your Dremal tool and remove some of the material from the front of the chassis cross brace to make it easer to get the tape and the tape tool down between the brace and the rear cell.

The more you do it, the faster and easier it will get.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 05:44 PM   #15545
Tech Elite
 
1armed1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 3,071
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to 1armed1
Default

The small stainless steel ruler you are talking about is commonly used in Tool & Die(machnist).
It is called a 6" rule
__________________
Serpent,B-Fast Rc,Discount Rc Store,
92zero.com,Lunsford Racing, Xpert Rc,
Schelle Racing Innovations
1armed1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 06:57 PM   #15546
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
The small stainless steel ruler you are talking about is commonly used in Tool & Die(machnist).
It is called a 6" rule
No.... It's calle an Associated Tape Tool!!
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 07:26 PM   #15547
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
No.... It's calle an Associated Tape Tool!!
I've even, on rare occassions, measured something with it.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 07:37 PM   #15548
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 285
Default

I just got one from the hardware store. On the back of the package it said "Associated Tape Tool....OD Signature Model".
jrrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 07:45 PM   #15549
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Talking

__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 07:49 PM   #15550
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I've even, on rare occassions, measured something with it.
Too funny guys
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 07:51 PM   #15551
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
I just got one from the hardware store. On the back of the package it said "Associated Tape Tool....OD Signature Model".
Must be gold plated then...
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 07:59 PM   #15552
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 285
Default

Bill........the OD model is titanium.

tomorrow night, Rev4 and RDX!
jrrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 08:11 PM   #15553
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
Bill........the OD model is titanium.

tomorrow night, Rev4 and RDX!
I am smitten with the flu since last week...No way you get the chance to whomp on me tomorrow. Too headachy to build cars. Just doing this is stretching it. Looking forward to Saturday with the old cars.

Will want all kinds of thoughts about building the Rev 4.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 08:16 PM   #15554
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 148
Send a message via ICQ to Seano
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Katana Man
Seano,

Do you have a link to those axles?
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4115
Seano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 11:10 PM   #15555
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 285
Default

Steps to building a winning Rev4:

1. Buy kit
2. Give kit to OD
3. Get finished car from OD
4.
jrrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:27 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0