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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-15-2005, 07:54 AM   #15526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Managed to break a front axle on one of my Carpet Knives at our race this past Sunday. Hadn't hit anything particularly hard when it let go so my guess is I'd managed to crack it before. Looking at the part it sheared where the threads start into the upright and the threads appear to be cut rather than rolled into the part creating a stress riser.

Checking at my LHS for replacement the proprietor was adamant that they need to be replaced with the Ti axle, that the steel axles will do nothing but break where the Ti axles never do. This is a little contrary to the information I'm pretty sure I know, and that's that while Ti is nice-n-lite it isn't as strong as steel (at least not properly spec'd and alloyed/manufactured steel). Now possibly they've rolled the threads into the Ti so they don't see the stress riser?

What's the experience of the group? I don't care about the "bling" factor of Ti and the little weight savings certainly isn't going to improve my performance in any measureable way. If they are substantially less prone to breakage I'll get 'em, but keep in mind I've got THREE cars to outfit and the Ti axles go for $15 as opposed to $5 for the steel.

Many thanks,

Scottrik
I've bent one steel axle in 5 years of runing 12th scales and trust me-I used to really, really suck and I hit a ton of stuff. I dont think it matters what front axles you have-as long as they arent e-clip ones!!
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Old 11-15-2005, 08:21 AM   #15527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12l4newb
two more questions from the newb:

1. I picked up a used P2K2 and the brushes had been changed. the brush has an R on it. anyone know what brush this might be?

2. I read someone talking about putting teflon tape from BSR under the damping disk. I went to BSR's website and could not find teflon tape. im assuming this tape would have to be adhesive and not the stuff you use on pipe fittings???? Anyplace else you pick this up besides BSR? Maybe I'll head up to the gate friday and talk to bud.
CRC sells teflon dampener disks.
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Old 11-15-2005, 08:22 AM   #15528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12l4newb
two more questions from the newb:

1. I picked up a used P2K2 and the brushes had been changed. the brush has an R on it. anyone know what brush this might be?

2. I read someone talking about putting teflon tape from BSR under the damping disk. I went to BSR's website and could not find teflon tape. im assuming this tape would have to be adhesive and not the stuff you use on pipe fittings???? Anyplace else you pick this up besides BSR? Maybe I'll head up to the gate friday and talk to bud.
I posted the pat # for a top plate to use damper tubs for the L4 If I were U ide got to tubs....
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:30 AM   #15529
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thanks switch, i found them on crc's site.

anyone have a reply on a way to hold the batteries other than tape?

does anyone sell foam bumpers already cut for 1/12 scale cars?
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:47 AM   #15530
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Hi
Would any of you guys post a pice of the L4 modified with damper tubes, and tell what mod kit did you use... thanks
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Old 11-15-2005, 12:28 PM   #15531
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Thanks Ray--I kinda figured it was a bit of a freak. I hit stuff (just getting back into 1/12 after 15 years away) but not THAT much stuff and mostly glancing blows. Was a little surprised to have the wheel come off...

Oh yeah, I remember what a DELIGHT those e-clip axles were on my old RC12L...

Scottrik
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Old 11-15-2005, 01:05 PM   #15532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Thanks Ray--I kinda figured it was a bit of a freak. I hit stuff (just getting back into 1/12 after 15 years away) but not THAT much stuff and mostly glancing blows. Was a little surprised to have the wheel come off...

Oh yeah, I remember what a DELIGHT those e-clip axles were on my old RC12L...

Scottrik
Get the Ti ones, i broke 3 crc steel ones in the first 4 meetings here, and, like you, i wasn't hitting things that hard (not like i used to with my switchblade and I never broke a steel front axle on that). But for the last 5 meetings i've raced i havent broken or done anything to the Ti ones. I think you would break the wheel before you broke the Ti axle.
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Old 11-15-2005, 01:27 PM   #15533
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Seano,

Do you have a link to those axles?
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Old 11-15-2005, 01:27 PM   #15534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Thanks Ray--I kinda figured it was a bit of a freak. I hit stuff (just getting back into 1/12 after 15 years away) but not THAT much stuff and mostly glancing blows. Was a little surprised to have the wheel come off...

Oh yeah, I remember what a DELIGHT those e-clip axles were on my old RC12L...

Scottrik
Go steel, I've been using the Parma/PSE steel axles for ten or so years, and I've NEVER bent a steel one in a 12th scale car. 10th scale oval I''ve trashed a few, but never in 12th scale.
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Old 11-15-2005, 01:41 PM   #15535
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Default FRONT AXLES

I've had good luck with these:
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/catalo...es_2650931.htm
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Old 11-15-2005, 01:54 PM   #15536
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odpurple--Are the Lunsford axles 1/8"? The page only says "uses small bearings". Looking at the axle set there I'll bet CRC repackages the same pieces and re-sells them.

CypressMidWest--I'll check out those Parma axles too.

That's the great thing about lists like this, the collective knowledge/experience base is AWESOME!!

Many thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 11-15-2005, 02:01 PM   #15537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
CypressMidWest--I'll check out those Parma axles too.
Part#95060
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Old 11-15-2005, 02:05 PM   #15538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
odpurple--Are the Lunsford axles 1/8"? The page only says "uses small bearings". Looking at the axle set there I'll bet CRC repackages the same pieces and re-sells them.

CypressMidWest--I'll check out those Parma axles too.

That's the great thing about lists like this, the collective knowledge/experience base is AWESOME!!

Many thanks,

Scottrik
The Lunsford Ti front spindles are 1/18". They fit all current 1/12th scale front wheel bearings, flanged and un-flanged. They might be more expensive but they really are the best. That's all I use.
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Old 11-15-2005, 02:18 PM   #15539
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Thanks Crashby! I figured they were probably 1/8", but you know about "assumption" being the mother of all f@#*-ups", right?

The Lunsford pieces aren't really all that much more expensive either. The steel Parma axles (which are probably great too!) are listed at $9 while the Lunsford pieces are $10.50. I'll probably go with the Lunsford parts since I've had such great luck with their turnbuckles for years.

Best,

Scottrik
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Old 11-15-2005, 02:24 PM   #15540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12l4newb
anyone have a reply on a way to hold the batteries other than tape?
There really is no better way to hold the batteries. It might be possible to find some Velcro straps that would work (try http://www.penguinrc.com) but the problem I've experienced with that is the Velcro cannot hold tight enough and often sticks too far below the chassis. This can cause some crazy handling when the Velcro contacts the racing surface. I tried a Velcro setup, but went back to tape ... quickly. You might want to look at trimming the chassis to make taping easier. I chose to make a mod to my YRX-12 that made taping 1000x easier. The trick was to cut a small slot between the T-bar and inner cell slot (I think I read that here somewhere...) thanks to whoever posted that one.

From what I can see from photos of the 12L4, taping should be a piece of cake (front to back, no t-bar in the way). One trick that may help is to cut the tape longer than will be needed and fold over 1-2 inches of it to make a 'fishing lead' ... this can help you get the hang of how the tape will behave without the annoying stickage-at-the-wrong-time. Once you have the tape wrapped around the cells securely (1.5-2.0 wraps minimum), cut off the 'fishing lead' and enjoy your nice taping job. To remove the tape: cut it with a hobby knife between 'cell pairs' (in split pack configurations), unwrap it and remove it 'out the bottom' of the chassis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 12l4newb
does anyone sell foam bumpers already cut for 1/12 scale cars?
Yokomo, CRC ... probably a dozen others. No matter what brand you get, you will most likely have to do some trimming to get clearance where needed. I use a Dremel and a medium-coarse sanding drum. Works like a charm and with a bit of practice can produce a perfect fit. Warning, Dremeling bumpers can get messy.


'nuff said,
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