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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-10-2005, 09:51 AM   #15436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Hara conversion... Does anyone know if it is more suited for carpet or asphalt?

Thanks,
E
A couple guys at my club tried them out, they came to the conclusion that it was suited to Hara. I don't see them any more.

Chris
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Old 11-10-2005, 10:17 AM   #15437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
A couple guys at my club tried them out, they came to the conclusion that it was suited to Hara. I don't see them any more.

Chris
I dont think it even suits Hara most of the time
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Old 11-10-2005, 10:18 AM   #15438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
A couple guys at my club tried them out, they came to the conclusion that it was suited to Hara. I don't see them any more.

Chris
That's funny.

Hi Timmay!
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Old 11-10-2005, 10:38 AM   #15439
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Default AH-12

guess E saw the Q's car....still looking for that 12th magic biscuit ride

there are different versions of the Hara cars, occasionally you can catch a pic here and there. Hara has run some with tubes and some with disks. some have thicker chassis for carpet (2nd pic). some times he uses Kawada parts (on car in 2nd pic), front end, etc. Different cut outs and battery spacing (3rd pic) the version commonly sold here is very flexible like the one from speedtechrc.com (1st pic). On the for sale version, according to some in the Hara-12 thread the front of the chassis is really fragile where the body posts mount.

for those who may ask if the YRX12 in the pic has a prototype front end...NOPE! has a down sized YRX10 front end that was run back in a time when 1/12th's got huge.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-ah-hammer2.jpg   1/12 forum-ah-hpi.jpg   1/12 forum-ah-hammer-yok-unknown-versions.jpg  

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 11-10-2005 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 11-10-2005, 11:52 AM   #15440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
That's funny.

Hi Timmay!
You found me, my favorite place on the net... Aside from the SM thread.
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Old 11-10-2005, 02:24 PM   #15441
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Quick question time.....

I tried searching the thread with "spring rates" and nothing showed (well ok CRC spring rates did but I'm looking for Vcs lol).

So just wondering what the order of the Vcs shock springs is from softest to hardest.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-10-2005, 04:03 PM   #15442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
I tried searching the thread with "spring rates" and nothing showed (well ok CRC spring rates did but I'm looking for Vcs lol).

So just wondering what the order of the Vcs shock springs is from softest to hardest.

Thanks in advance.
the VCS Micro Shock springs, 10L3 Oval, 12L On Road, 12L3 Oval.
One pair each of:
Black, 4.00 lb.
Green, 6.00 lb.
Silver, 8.00 lb.
Blue, 10.00 lb.
Gold, 12.00 lb.
Red, 14.00 lb.
Copper, 16.00 lb.
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Old 11-10-2005, 04:10 PM   #15443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
I tried searching the thread with "spring rates" and nothing showed (well ok CRC spring rates did but I'm looking for Vcs lol).

So just wondering what the order of the Vcs shock springs is from softest to hardest.

Thanks in advance.
AE Shock Springs:

Black 4lb
Olive (green) 6lb
Silver 8lb
Blue 10lb
Gold 12lb
Red 14lb
Copper 16lb

The weights are Associated's published weights, I've never tested them, but regardless of value they do go in that order.
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Old 11-10-2005, 04:38 PM   #15444
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Best way for glueing the tyre

Hello at all

what is the best way for glue the tyre ? cyano ? contatc glue ?...

Thanks
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Old 11-10-2005, 04:59 PM   #15445
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Well ran my Crc 3.2r this week. It was great, but the shrink on my cells got tore up from the chassis and the carpet? I did build it as per the instr. and didn't file the slots just ran a hobby knife along the edge like it says. Has this happend to anyone else?
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:38 PM   #15446
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Dasupacat,
File the edges just running a blade across the edge is not enough.
If you need help, ask Tracey at Nick's Hobby shop there in Ft Wayne.
He'll help you out.
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:41 PM   #15447
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I have a t-fource and I have some slop on the front upright's it seems to have some play up and down where the front spring is.Is there a site that shows how to properly set this up or to set up a 12 scale properly.The wheels actually move up and down about 2-3mm.And I would like to know how long the shock is supposed to be in so that the rear droop is going to be ok.thanks
mike
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Old 11-10-2005, 06:23 PM   #15448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
Dasupacat,
File the edges just running a blade across the edge is not enough.
If you need help, ask Tracey at Nick's Hobby shop there in Ft Wayne.
He'll help you out.
It already seems like the batts are flush with the bottom of the chassis. I think if I filed them the batts. will def. be below the chassis bottom.
Yeh. Tracey is def. helpful. I bug him all the time. LoL
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:10 PM   #15449
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Default Upper a-arm play, teflon washers smashing...

Just a plug..
If you're looking for some shims to take slop out of your top a-arms and are tired of the teflon ones smashing... Drop me a PM.. I have some .005" thick stainless steel shims that work well. They are .09" ID and 3/16" OD.
Thanks,
Wayne
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:24 PM   #15450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
It already seems like the batts are flush with the bottom of the chassis. I think if I filed them the batts. will def. be below the chassis bottom.
Yeh. Tracey is def. helpful. I bug him all the time. LoL
That happens with these cars.

It is only an issue at big races where you may not clear the 3mm minimum ride height rule because your batteries stick down below the chassis. You may have to bring the ride height up to 3.5mm or 4.0mm to get 3.0mm at the batteries. Go on line to some place like McMaster-Carr and order yourself a 3.0mm drill blank. Use that to run under your car, race ready, to find out what is not making the ride height requirement.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Go to "Raw Materials and Springs" select "Metals" select "Multi-Purpose Drill Bits and Rods" select diameter of "3MM" and you will see rods for as cheap as $2.74. Best ride height tool around!!
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