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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-26-2002, 03:23 PM   #1531
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Default HUDY adapter for Jaco Fronts

Anyone use a HUDY tire truer with Jaco AeroForce fronts for the AE 12L? The Jaco's for the 12L have the internal ribbing that doesn't fit over the HUDY 1/12 adapter I have... is there a different adapter that will work?

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Old 09-27-2002, 10:29 AM   #1532
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Racing was great fun, much more precise than any other cars I've driven. The grip built up quickly and made it much easier to drive. The first round was OK but I crashed quite a bit so I didn't get very many laps, the track was very tight (small space) and the best lap was in the high 7s, I was a second slower. In the next round the slow and stuttering servo that came with the car gave up so I had to retire, cars that only go left are ok for oval, not road course
I have a new servo (metal geared) on the way, and I think I'll get a set of gold and grey rears for the early rounds
I like these cars, especially their strength (I tested mine) and 8 min races
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Old 09-28-2002, 02:06 PM   #1533
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I found these pictures stuff away on my pc. Thought maybe you guys and girls would like to see them.

This is the Hyperdrive 1/12th scale car.

I believe this is the Corally SP12M.
There is great need for a sarcasm font.

You never know when it will strike, but there comes a moment at work when you know that you just aren't going to do anything productive for the rest of the day.

Sometimes I post just to look at my avatar.

Last edited by Kraig; 09-28-2002 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 09-28-2002, 10:58 PM   #1534
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Default Hudy adapter & Jaco fronts


I have the automatic truer and know what you are talking about... I have to force them on while twisting the wheel to kind of screw it on. From the look of it you would think the adapter wasn't finished right? Trust me on this one.. screw the wheel on until it gives and seats itself. Then screw the large retainer end over the exposed threads and it will self center.

Good luck


Last edited by F1-Fanatic; 09-29-2002 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 09-29-2002, 09:49 AM   #1535
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Default Trinity SB12 Setups ?

Anybody know of any posted setups for the Trinity SB-12 ?

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Old 09-29-2002, 02:22 PM   #1536
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Thumbs up Keep the Pics Coming...

Thx for the pics. Who's 12m ?
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Old 09-29-2002, 07:40 PM   #1537
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Originally posted by Stevie
My local club does'nt allow addertives,i went once,but never again!!with the cars being so powerfull it was impossible to control,these cars really need addertives to drive them at there best,with addertives it's like driving on a train track.i now after drive 50 miles to go to a track that allows addertives,but its worth it-has they drive totally diffrent with addertives,but then again if you have never used it/then you might not miss it,just go easy on the throttle,
ive never had the pleasure of using tyre warmers,so i don't know what diffrence they make.?.
!good luck!

Would they let you use sun block on you tries for do the banne any thing on you tries?
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Old 09-30-2002, 07:09 AM   #1538
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Team GW- Try Trinity's site and if that doesn't help go to the Josh Cyrul thread on tech talk and ask him for his setup there. It appears that the early kits (like mine) didn't come with any setup sheets but the later kits do (or are suppose to). If you can't get anything then i would suggest checking out pages 19-43 on this thread and you will find lots of info but try Josh/Trinity first.

Oktoberfast is this week! Hey!!!!!!
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Old 09-30-2002, 07:42 AM   #1539
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I plan to buy a 1/12 scale car in the near future. I've been looking at the 12L3, CRC and the Corally. I plan to race 6-cell stock on carpet and asphalt. I like the 12L3 and CRC (I know they are basically the same car) more than the Corally. The only thing stopiing me from buying the 12L3 is the strapping tape. I seen more people lose races because of that crap. After all these years they haven't found a better way to keep batteries in palce? I was wondering if any of you guys have found a better method of securing your batteries. Post pics if you have them. I was thinking about using XRAY's mounting system. Will this work?
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Old 09-30-2002, 08:04 AM   #1540
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Taz, We aren't allowed to use anything on the tires (including sun block) but the grip is quite good. In the first heats it is a little loose but by the final round the cars push round some corners. The good set-up for the last couple of rounds is pink soft in the back and pink medium in the front, most people use this all the time but others use gold rears in the first round.

PS: I haven't experienced the grip roll I was warned about yet

Are there any good ways to mount the servo? Mine came with little plastic blocks and they're not very strong.
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Old 09-30-2002, 08:19 AM   #1541
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XR- The battery securing method has long been an issue with some for 12th scale cars. However let's remember that NO rc car is immune to a DNF on the battery ejection front. In the past 3.5yrs i have seen my share of TC's out of a race with the batteries hanging out of the car also.

The quick answer is that we use a form of strapping tape that is much stronger but thinner and easier to work with than normal, super sticky, wide strapping tape. Yokomo and Tamiya sell it as well as a company called Racer's Choice and also a company whose name escapes me (something like RC Racers or Racing Products-it's black and thin). I use the latter, it's black and very strong but light weight and pretty sticky. You could also probably make a Corally like hold down for a 12L3/Six Pack without too much hassle but you will add a little more weight compared to strapping tape.

The reality with all of this is that other forms of securing batteries have their ptfall(s) as well. The "O" rings used on some cars have popped off in severe enough crashes and the lock down method can bow the chassis plate inducing tweak and the batteries STILL can come out.

Try either one of the above listed battery strapping tapes or use a post and drill a hole in the chassis plate and replicate the Corally hold down method. Either way in most cases you will be fine.
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Old 10-01-2002, 10:59 PM   #1542
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i was having trouble getting my diff as smooth as i wanted it. so i took the tamiya hopup ball thrust bearing from my f103 and replaced the belleville washers with it and now my diff silky smooth. has anyone tried this before and if so what did they think.
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Old 10-03-2002, 12:16 PM   #1543
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Old 10-03-2002, 01:02 PM   #1544
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I guess the new Yokomo 12 scale car is finally coming next week. Check out their website. Cant wait for it. I ordered mine from speedtechrc.

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Old 10-03-2002, 04:24 PM   #1545
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How much were they asking for it?
Bob Seay
Tamiya TRF417, TA05v.2, TRF211XM, M-05ver.2R, XRAY X12, Associated B5m Factory Lite

Go Pokes!!!
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