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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2005, 11:05 PM   #15406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
I asked the question a week ago, and no-one said a thing..
I think the only one that I saw for sale was a guy bought all the parts seperate and with a L4 put it together and sold it on here for $275

I think that the BMI car is just about the same thing in my opinion a lot of the same concepts.

I would like to know when you can get the new yokomo charger aka ice I am tired of looking at my pits and seeing the work durajunk woops i mean duratrax. You know that they didn't make the charger as it works to well.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:11 PM   #15407
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All I know is that it's coming to the States in a couple of weeks...
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Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:28 PM   #15408
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Default 12L4Y bite my YOKO-NUGEN

i went thru a vicious/repeatative cycle of emails with Robert Itoh of Yokomousa.com when i asked about the parts i was racing asphalt at the time and that's why i wanted some of the parts.

from the site: http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...es/npr0305.htm

Yokomo SP parts for the RC12L4
The prototype parts that were used on Masami Hirosaka's IFMAR World Championship winning RC12L4 are now available for RC12L4 users!

Graphite Main Chassis
Lengthens overall wheelbase by 3mm for improved stability. Cutouts (6) behind the front bulkhead were made to modify chassis flex for increased traction. Front tread has been narrowed 1mm for better compatibility with various wheel brands.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4558Y] $51.00
Graphite Cross Brace
Narrowed 1mm to fit the SP chassis. Installs onto the front suspension mounts.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4564Y] $6.50
Graphite Lower Pod Plate
Compatible with the SP-4558Y chassis.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4559Y] $15.00
Graphite Damper Plate
For use with SP-4530Y, SP-4542Y,SP-4537Y,SP-4541Y as a set.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4530Y] $14.00
Aluminum Dapmer Post
Use with the SP-4530Y Damper Plate.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4542Y] $3.50
Graphite Rear Chassis Brace
Designed for use with the SP-4558Y chassis.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4534Y] $10.00
Aluminum Motor Mount (Right)
Low CG design allows faster cornering speed. For use with SP-4530Y,SP-4542Y,SP-4537Y,SP-4541Y as a set.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4537Y] $46.00
Aluminum Bulkhead (Left)
For use with SP-4530Y, SP-4542Y,SP-4537Y,SP-4541Y as a set.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4541Y] $46.00
Graphite Rear Axle
Features a larger diameter precision shaft for improved trueness. Enhances rear grip and cornering speed.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4565Y] $52.00
Diff/Wheel Hub (Right)
Designed for use with the SP-4565Y rear axle.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4566Y] $20.00
T-Bar Tweak-Free Plate
Installs underneath the t-plate to provide equal left/right balance without using tweak screws.
Coming soon! [TBA] [SP-4335Y] $11.00


very short version
-asked if they were available. site says they are available and coming soon at the same time?
-was told they are available for order thru my LHS
-told him i took the part#'s from the 2005 news release to get my LHS to order them. LHS couldn't order them was told the part#'s don't exist when they tried to order.
-was told they are available for order thru my LHS or order thru them.
-told him they are not listed for sale on the site how do i get them
-was told they are available for order thru my LHS
-reminded him why i was emailing him in the first place.
-was told they are available for order thru my LHS or order thru them.
-asked how to order/pay from them since it's not on the site to purchase
-no more responses...utter email emptiness

these parts still aren't listed on their online shop for sale?

a poster in this thread "Team Girth" posted that the parts were available at the YOKO location in Cal, etc. i wasn't willing to drive 10 hours to get them. i have moved on. got ahold of Doug Powell (maker of the Quad-12) and had a old school FG chassis made for lo-traction tracks carpet or asphalt. it grips like mad when my graphite car acts like a drift car

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 11-09-2005 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:28 PM   #15409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
All I know is that it's coming to the States in a couple of weeks...
I am not seeing much more than a somewhat lightened 12L4 in that pic.
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:44 PM   #15410
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Being as it may be (which I know it not to be ), I still want/getting one...
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:48 PM   #15411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Being as it may be (which I know it not to be ), I still want one...
Even after seeing it, I just ordered a Rev 4...he, he...
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:49 PM   #15412
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The Rev.4 is still on the list too
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:54 PM   #15413
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Dave Hill in memphis (a good friend of pookys bill) has one, and I think its for sale, yes it really is one lol
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Old 11-08-2005, 11:54 PM   #15414
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And the w-i-d-e Yok is still on my list for next asphalt season.
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Old 11-09-2005, 12:03 AM   #15415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdoc
Dave Hill in memphis (a good friend of pookys bill) has one, and I think its for sale, yes it really is one lol
Tell me more...Pleeeeeeeeze!
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Old 11-09-2005, 12:19 AM   #15416
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Hmm? someone is friends with Dave Hill (Memphis) is this the same Dave Hill that was in Fort Wayne Indiana for a while if so tell him Tracey F. said get to work hillbilly..

Tracey
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:47 AM   #15417
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What diameter is the new Yoko rear axle then?
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:49 AM   #15418
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Same as the old one but the dif ring shoulder is bigger.
I have the Yokomo parts fitted to an L4, got the parts from Japan. They are nice but the car as standard wasn't my limiting factor....
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Old 11-09-2005, 07:01 AM   #15419
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Is that the Masami Yok that required you to true the rear tires to set the tweak?
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Old 11-09-2005, 08:24 AM   #15420
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I just bought a new L4 rear end for my L3 so I don't know the diffrence however has anyone have exprience with the yoko rear end?

and what I mean by rear end I got the new shaft with larger diff rings
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