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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-07-2005, 12:28 AM   #15361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
I see that no one from NorCal is posting after my win in 1/12th Stock in the A main at Stockton yesterday. Total dumb luck that all the very fast boys took each other out a few times...he, he...

After that, I quickly switched cars (or thought I had) to run my other 12L4 in the next main for 1/2th Mod and dumped about 90 seconds into the run. In my haste to switch the Speed 8 body over from car-to-car, I took it off and put it back on the same 12L4 car I just had finished the stock race with. Was laughing too hard about the win...

Think I will just use two car bodies from now on.
Good Job, Bill!

It was a very popular win! Being fast doesn't always win races. You have to finish to win!
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Old 11-07-2005, 01:16 AM   #15362
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Bill
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:46 AM   #15363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
I see that no one from NorCal is posting after my win in 1/12th Stock in the A main at Stockton yesterday. Total dumb luck that all the very fast boys took each other out a few times...he, he...

After that, I quickly switched cars (or thought I had) to run my other 12L4 in the next main for 1/2th Mod and dumped about 90 seconds into the run. In my haste to switch the Speed 8 body over from car-to-car, I took it off and put it back on the same 12L4 car I just had finished the stock race with. Was laughing too hard about the win...

Think I will just use two car bodies from now on.

Bill,

We were waiting for you to post with the changed name of:

"I kicked your ass in 12th scale stock - Bill"

Good Job Bill, you earned it, we never finished the race, you did, you can't win if you aren't there at the end. I had just as much fun with you winning as if I'd won myself.

Chris
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:08 AM   #15364
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Hey guys,

Iím in the market for a new 1/12 car and am faced the challenge of picking the better of two. Iíve narrowed the choice to either the CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R or the T-Fource.

Local shop has both cars in stock and I would like to know which car would better suit me. I mainly race stock class and will be doing some 5800 (19 turn) racing throughout the winter.

Bring on your suggestions.

Thanks,

Eric
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:13 AM   #15365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harkonen
I"m sure it's been covered somewhere in this forum, but I"ve been looking for hours with no luck. I"m trying to find out what parts I need to convert a RC12L3 to an RC12L4. I"m just trying to figure out whether it's worth just selling the L3 and getting an L4 or if it would be better to just upgrade it. Just need a parts list, I heard there is only like 6 parts needed to upgrade it to the L4.
The only big improvement the L4 has to the L3 is the big ring rear diff. Bolt one on and you should be all set. The rest is in your driving and setup skills.
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:21 AM   #15366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
The only big improvement the L4 has to the L3 is the big ring rear diff. Bolt one on and you should be all set. The rest is in your driving and setup skills.
What's instant, most noticable difference on performance L4 diff and L3 diff? I'm consider to upgrade my L3 with L4 diff since L3 one doesn't feel smooth enough (compare with my other EP diff), but is that going to give lots performance advantage?

btw, I run lots loss diff on 1/12 than any of my 1/10 EP TC. Is that correct? Or I just use diff to correct my setting mistake elseplace?
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:37 AM   #15367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E2
Hey guys,

Iím in the market for a new 1/12 car and am faced the challenge of picking the better of two. Iíve narrowed the choice to either the CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R or the T-Fource.

Local shop has both cars in stock and I would like to know which car would better suit me. I mainly race stock class and will be doing some 5800 (19 turn) racing throughout the winter.

Bring on your suggestions.

Thanks,

Eric
I have both and they are equally fast. The CK just won at Vegas. The only negative would be that they are releasing a new optional chassis that allows you to move the batteries fore and aft of the current posistion as well as being a bit narrower. I am currently running my Knife with good results.
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:43 AM   #15368
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Hey guys I have a quick question for you. I ran my 12th for the first time this weekend and I noticed that while driving the car hard into the corners the rear would unload a little on me. I wasnt able to true my tires at all so I'm wondering if that could be one of the main reasons. Also anyone who runs a Yok chassis on carpet....Cells foward back middle????? I tried middle and forward.
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:58 AM   #15369
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I too just ran for the first time this past weekend and what you're saying sounds like the Diff being too tight or you're not roll'n off the throttle...

I'd lossen the diff by a hair.

I'll be at the Belly this Sunday and I'm sure there will be more than enough ppl out there to lend a hand.
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:01 AM   #15370
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Belly is running now? I might have to check it out. God knows I'm not up to speed for Horsham yet.
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:06 AM   #15371
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Indeed they are, that's were I was and a few others... This coming Sunday should be a big turn out for noobies to 12th and knowledgable folks.

Hope to see you next sunday and GL with your car
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:18 AM   #15372
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E2, your best bet is to flip a coin. There both great cars.
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:34 AM   #15373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTolle
E2, your best bet is to flip a coin. There both great cars.
Thats a great answer. At the Gate I have seen some stupid dialed CRC 3.2r's in low, med and high grip. Theres also a very good T-fource that also never seems to handle poorly at our track. At the recent Halloween Classic there were 3.2, 3.2 adjustable chassis, t-fources, SG1's, L4's, Rev. 4's, Rugrats in both the Masters and 12th stock a-mains.
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:34 AM   #15374
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...
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Old 11-07-2005, 12:49 PM   #15375
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I like my T-Fource

Never tried the 3.2R though...
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