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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2005, 11:55 AM   #15346
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something I think any of us have done wrong at least one time......
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:16 PM   #15347
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I'm having a similar problem with my new 1/12th (19t).....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
Played my 1/12 for the first time today. I ran into some problem:

Was doing JACO front pink/rear white today. Without tire water, every time I throttle out the corrner a bit harder, the car start spin.
on exit from corners.

Although the tires are Parma and it's purple front and pink rear it's doing the same thing "spin" (on power oversteer/hook and spin or whatever it's called ) but here in New Zealand we're not allowed to use traction additives to solve the problem.

Funny thing is though the car has on power understeer on entry to corners (the high speed ones anyway like at the end of the main straight).

Our track is high grip asphalt but unfortunately it's not hot weather at the moment to help with the grip and I don't have a set of tire warmers.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Edit: I don't know if it's a tell-tale sign or not but putting softer compound tires on the rear made it worse, not much but enough to make ya want to change back after one race.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 11-06-2005 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:21 PM   #15348
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I"m sure it's been covered somewhere in this forum, but I"ve been looking for hours with no luck. I"m trying to find out what parts I need to convert a RC12L3 to an RC12L4. I"m just trying to figure out whether it's worth just selling the L3 and getting an L4 or if it would be better to just upgrade it. Just need a parts list, I heard there is only like 6 parts needed to upgrade it to the L4.
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Old 11-06-2005, 04:39 PM   #15349
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Mabuchi540

Try some softer tires... I was running on like a rubberized gym floor this past weekend for the first time, and no traction compound was allowed. There wasen't so much grip so I had to drop my tire compound. It was also alittle chilly inside the building aswell, so the rubber wasent exactly warm. Not only did I drop tire compound, I had to drop spring rate (centre shock spring and side springs)...post your setup and I'm sure you will be able to get some help... You may also want to try a body with more downforce aswell...I here the Zytec will give you lots of bite.

Just give us a little more info...
Aaron
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Old 11-06-2005, 06:52 PM   #15350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
on exit from corners.

Although the tires are Parma and it's purple front and pink rear it's doing the same thing "spin" (on power oversteer/hook and spin or whatever it's called ) but here in New Zealand we're not allowed to use traction additives to solve the problem.

Funny thing is though the car has on power understeer on entry to corners (the high speed ones anyway like at the end of the main straight).

Our track is high grip asphalt but unfortunately it's not hot weather at the moment to help with the grip and I don't have a set of tire warmers.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Edit: I don't know if it's a tell-tale sign or not but putting softer compound tires on the rear made it worse, not much but enough to make ya want to change back after one race.
Check the tweak of the car to make sure it is leveled that might be a good reason for spinning out and as for as the on power push, you might want to try a stiffer spring on the center shock. Just my guess on trying.
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Old 11-06-2005, 07:21 PM   #15351
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Post Yes it wasn't exactly warm (don't see it getting better for a while) this day to.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Stratus
Mabuchi540

Try some softer tires... I was running on like a rubberized gym floor this past weekend for the first time, and no traction compound was allowed. There wasen't so much grip so I had to drop my tire compound. It was also alittle chilly inside the building aswell, so the rubber wasent exactly warm. Not only did I drop tire compound, I had to drop spring rate (centre shock spring and side springs)...post your setup and I'm sure you will be able to get some help... You may also want to try a body with more downforce aswell...I here the Zytec will give you lots of bite.

Just give us a little more info...
Aaron
Ok here's the setup.....(car Rev 4 with old skool front end)

Front:

Parma purple (cut to 1.75)
20 rate front springs
Ride height 3.5 mm
Servo moved forward to give true ackerman


Middle:

35 weight oil
Silver spring
White side springs
7000 weight oil in the side tubes

Rear:

Parma pink cut to 1.85
Ride height 3mm at back of the pod.

Motor Chameleon C2 with 30/96 pinion spur.

And to recap the problem.....

Understeer on entry to high speed corners (exit is fine) and oversteer (hook and spin) on exit from the tight corners.

And on this day softer tires made it worse.
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Old 11-06-2005, 07:21 PM   #15352
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I stand corrected on the CFEX body web site. I guess I did'nt go far enough. Let us know if you receive the ones with the wing.
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Old 11-06-2005, 07:48 PM   #15353
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where can i find parts for an L4? I searched tower and they dont carry things like a lower rear pod plate or battery tray thingies. Im also looking for hop ups too like threaded front axles.
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Old 11-06-2005, 07:58 PM   #15354
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Default 12l4 parts

thunderbt3,
go to kthobbies.com. Kraig has all of the lower pod plates, as well as battery trays in stock.

Robert
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:33 PM   #15355
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Out of curiosity. What stock motors are being run for 1/12th scale. Also brush and spring combinations.

Also what combination would you set up a 19t C2?
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:35 PM   #15356
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Arrow slap

anyone running a slapmaster 2.2ms ...My car is running fine but I can allway's
use other setup's....running stock w/parma purp ft/Pink rears
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Old 11-06-2005, 09:50 PM   #15357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
Ok here's the setup.....

Front:
Parma purple (cut to 1.75)
20 rate front springs
Ride height 3.5 mm
Servo moved forward to give true ackerman

Middle:
35 weight oil
Silver spring
White side springs
7000 weight oil in the side tubes

Rear:
Parma pink cut to 1.85
Ride height 3mm at back of the pod.
Hey Mabuchi, I have a few things you can try out...

First your ride height, the front should not be higher than the rear of the car. In my experience this alone will make a car act very odd on the track, carpet or asphalt.

Those rear springs are definately way too stiff. We are running a medium/high grip carpet track with compound and we are borderline blue/white. Try going down to a blue side spring or maybe even an orange if you still can't get the car to act right.

For some extra turn in try changing that shock spring and dumping some castor into the front end. A blue or maybe even a gold shock spring and one large aluminum washer under the forward screw for the front end.

Let us know how you make out.

Nick
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Old 11-06-2005, 09:52 PM   #15358
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My 3 year old son got ahold of my CK today and hooked up the battery.....backwards of course. My QC2 is cooked. Will LRP fix it? I know they wont under warranty, I will pay. Dont know if it is salvegable. Kids, what can you do?
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Old 11-06-2005, 11:32 PM   #15359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
My 3 year old son got ahold of my CK today and hooked up the battery.....backwards of course. My QC2 is cooked. Will LRP fix it? I know they wont under warranty, I will pay. Dont know if it is salvegable. Kids, what can you do?
A couple months ago, I did a direct battery connect to a motor while wired in a car and quickly fried my QC2 in the process.

Sent the QC2 back to Associated with a letter explaining my stupidity. They replaced it with a new one for only $65. Thanks Associated!
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Old 11-06-2005, 11:41 PM   #15360
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I see that no one from NorCal is posting after my win in 1/12th Stock in the A main at Stockton yesterday. Total dumb luck that all the very fast boys took each other out a few times...he, he...

After that, I quickly switched cars (or thought I had) to run my other 12L4 in the next main for 1/2th Mod and dumped about 90 seconds into the run. In my haste to switch the Speed 8 body over from car-to-car, I took it off and put it back on the same 12L4 car I just had finished the stock race with. Was laughing too hard about the win...

Think I will just use two car bodies from now on.
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