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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-03-2005, 09:09 AM   #15316
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Looks sweet. Wish some of the preferred bodies stayed looking more to the real thing.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:18 AM   #15317
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So i was wiring up my rev 3 last night, and for the life of me i could not get my reedy 19t into the pod without taking off the top plate. Do i suckzor or is this reedy motor bigger than all my trinity motors last year?
last year with my 12l4 i never had to take the top plate off, everything just slid right up in from the bottom.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:32 AM   #15318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primusblowsgoat
So i was wiring up my rev 3 last night, and for the life of me i could not get my reedy 19t into the pod without taking off the top plate. Do i suckzor or is this reedy motor bigger than all my trinity motors last year?
last year with my 12l4 i never had to take the top plate off, everything just slid right up in from the bottom.
That is standard operating procedure on the Rev. 3 - Rev. 4.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:35 AM   #15319
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That stinks. As does the rubber band thing, i keep shooting my self with the thing when i try to put batteries in lol. Anyone ditch the rubber band and tape them in?
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Old 11-03-2005, 10:03 AM   #15320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primusblowsgoat
That stinks. As does the rubber band thing, i keep shooting my self with the thing when i try to put batteries in lol. Anyone ditch the rubber band and tape them in?
SpeedMerchant cars have a narrow motor box, so you can't get the angle neccesary to remove the motor from the bottom (don'y know what you were using, but I don't know of any motor you can remove from the bottom). Removing the top plate is a small price to pay for having better balance at the rear.

Yes, some have replaced the o ring with tape, as on the Rev4. Better yet, you can get a Rev3 to Rev4 conversion kit and be up to date with a better car.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:15 PM   #15321
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and.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
due to a slight stuff up (an ordering problem being corrected) I have ended up with red overhead and standard springs for my new C2 (never run one before).

The brushes are these:

http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/43/463.htm?413

Would using both red springs have a negative effect/any effect on this motor?

I can take a green standard spring from my Orion Element if it would be better for the C2.
*bump*
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Old 11-04-2005, 08:49 PM   #15322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Here you go...
Has any one tried to order this body from cefx.net??????
It shows that it is still available on shopatron.
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Old 11-04-2005, 09:12 PM   #15323
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Default shock rebuild

I have never rebuilt the shock on my L3 and was wondering if anyone has any helpful tips or past posts they could send my way.
Does it matter if the shock is mounted to the top of the motor pod or can you mount it to the bottom of the pod for a lower cg?
kev
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Old 11-04-2005, 09:20 PM   #15324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason
Looks sweet. Wish some of the preferred bodies stayed looking more to the real thing.
I couldn't agree more! I think it looks great! I'm not too sure what Bentley Parma and Protoform were looking at. I can't find it anywhere... heh,heh
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Old 11-04-2005, 09:27 PM   #15325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
I have never rebuilt the shock on my L3 and was wondering if anyone has any helpful tips or past posts they could send my way.
Does it matter if the shock is mounted to the top of the motor pod or can you mount it to the bottom of the pod for a lower cg?
kev
Follow the instructions in the 12L3 manual about doing the stock shock. I upgraded to an aftermarket shock which made the rebuild process easier. You should probably check the shock fluid level every other event.

If you mounted shock on underside of pod, it seems as though you would be losing some angle (and mechanical advantage) from having it on top. Stronger (heavier) spring required to compensate? I know there was some conversation going on this forum about that topic a few months back.
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Old 11-04-2005, 10:44 PM   #15326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollover
Hey carlos, any idea why Josh quit making them?
looks like he has quit making a lot of his stuff lately. a couple months back their was a person on this forum who spent a week or so trying to get a CEFX 12. he put up a reward and finally got a hit but the kit was i beleive in Japan? i beleive that person ended up getting a Reflex 12 instead and i thought those were hard to find.

as for the body...one racer at our carpet track got one from someone at the Vegas IIC, he loves it on his REV 4. now wishes he could find more
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Old 11-05-2005, 08:00 AM   #15327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Here you go...
Where can I buy one?
I also just got a CRC 3.2r. What size should I cut down the tires?

Last edited by Dasupacat1; 11-05-2005 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 11-05-2005, 11:51 AM   #15328
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I ordered 4 of the cefx lmp p-900 bodies off of the cefx.net site.
I'll report back if and when they arrive!!!!!
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Old 11-05-2005, 12:06 PM   #15329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Where can I buy one?
I also just got a CRC 3.2r. What size should I cut down the tires?
On carpet I ususally cut mine to 44mm front and 46mm rear. But I have read on this forum many times that a recomendation is 46mm in front and 48mm in rear
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Old 11-05-2005, 12:43 PM   #15330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
On carpet I ususally cut mine to 44mm front and 46mm rear. But I have read on this forum many times that a recomendation is 46mm in front and 48mm in rear
Either one works, you just get a little more life going with 46/48.
I think CRC recommends 1.8/1.9 which is what their pro cuts will be sized to.

Front 44mm or 1.7"
Rear 46mm or 1.8"

Front 46mm or 1.8"
Rear 48mm or 1.9"
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