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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-31-2005, 05:24 PM   #15286
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Smile 12l3 battery straps.

Hey everyone. I just thought I'd share this with you all, I'm total 1/12th scale newb but after a whole week of having a 12l3 I got sick enough of taping in the batteries that I wanted to either sell the car and buy a CRC, or figure something else out. So I came up with my own graphite battery straps.

This probably isn't an entirely unique idea, and I'm sure someone has already done it, but after searching around I found nothing so I thought others might enjoy checking this out. These just were finished today so they are basically in their beta stage..

http://home.comcast.net/~desolas/pos...3_overhead.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~desolas/posted/12l3_top.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~desolas/posted/12l3_side.jpg

First I tried mounting the straps so they were inline with the chassis and not bowed out at the rear and pointing towards the centerline but I could tell doing it that way would let the rear cell kick out if hit hard enough; plus it also required drilling another hole through the rear brace and using a screw/nut to mount in the rear which was a pain in the ass to remove. The rear mount of the strap just uses the existing brace mount screw.

The contour to the rear outside of the brace lets it swing out against the body post so you don't need to totally remove the rear screw. Toward the front of the brace, on the underside of it is another piece of carbon glued in to act as a battery stop. I think it will work fine without foam, but I put the foam in as added security to keep the cells from going forward in a major hit which I think could happen .. but if I were to glue a stop to the chassis itself I think the two would be enough to keep the cells in place even in a major hit.

The front mounts are made from the Pro4 battery hold down posts. No modification made other than cutting the index tab off the bottom of it.

The carbon itself may look familiar, I cut it out from a old 12L3 chassis but you can see how easy it would be to make it from any carbon or fiberglass stock. It can easily be made to look nice and clean. I could see using old t-plates to make them. I'm going to track test them and see if they work, if they do I'll sculped them down and try to trim as much weight off them as I can. Then put them into mass production and make 10 million dollars. jk
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:30 PM   #15287
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there are 2 cars with t-bars with CF holddowns for the batteries.

Powell Quad-12
CRC T-Fource

there are link cars with O-ring retainers for the Batteries

SpeedMerchant Rev3
CRC Carpet Knife
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:49 PM   #15288
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CRC T-Fource
Hi anyone know the differences between the T-Fource standard kit and the T-Fource red edition? Beside the obvious, the red edition coming with red parts, what is exactly the difference between these two kits? Price is really different
Pictures of the standard edition T-Fource would be great
Thanks
J
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:02 PM   #15289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
there are 2 cars with t-bars with CF holddowns for the batteries.

Powell Quad-12
CRC T-Fource

there are link cars with O-ring retainers for the Batteries

SpeedMerchant Rev3
CRC Carpet Knife
The SP12M also has a CF "holddown".
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:30 PM   #15290
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the std. t-force kit does not have the lowered rear pods for sure, and i am not sure if it comes with the really cool "dura shock" like the team version.
have had rc12l3's, l4's and now 2 team red t-force kits and we really like them on carpet!!! if you search this thread bac just a few pages you will find more info as we just went through many debates and similar questions that should be of benefit to you.
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:34 PM   #15291
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Yari & Mitch were on fire as usual at Omaha this past weekend!!
Really cool guys with lots of skills!!! but fajitas at a famous steak house?
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Old 11-01-2005, 01:37 AM   #15292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
due to a slight stuff up (an ordering problem being corrected) I have ended up with red overhead and standard springs for my new C2 (never run one before).

The brushes are these:

http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/43/463.htm?413

Would using both red springs have a negative effect/any effect on this motor?

I can take a green standard spring from my Orion Element if it would be better for the C2.
I've also just received my tire turer in the mail (Integy) and as the intructions aren't in english just wondering about a few things.

Ok I know how the arbor goes on the motor and likewise the other half of the arbor holds the tire.

But both front and rear tire can go on the arbor with the outside of the rim facing away from or towards the motor (quite close to the back of the arbor motor half if done that way).

Does it make a difference?

Also does it matter/make a difference which way the motor rotates in conjunction with cutting towards or away from the motor (towards/clockwise or towards/anti clockwise etc etc)?
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:00 AM   #15293
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From a nitro guy. Inside of the tire/wheel goes towards the cutter. We usualy cut the tires with the tire rotating towards the cutter. Some would say that rounding the corners going the opposite direction would make a difference. I am not that good of a driver to tell the difference.
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Old 11-01-2005, 08:31 AM   #15294
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Could anybody post pictures of the Hyperdrive belt driven pan cars?Does anybody have an e-mail of someone from IFMAR or EFRA who is responsible for the technical regulations of 1/12 scale cars?Thank you in advance for your help .
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Old 11-01-2005, 09:53 PM   #15295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
CRC T-Fource
Hi anyone know the differences between the T-Fource standard kit and the T-Fource red edition? Beside the obvious, the red edition coming with red parts, what is exactly the difference between these two kits? Price is really different
Pictures of the standard edition T-Fource would be great
Thanks
J
red ed. comes with purple fronts, gray rears, lowered aluminum pod plates, and aluminum screws.

pics and details at www.teamcrc.com
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Old 11-01-2005, 11:33 PM   #15296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burgboyz
Yari & Mitch were on fire as usual at Omaha this past weekend!!
Really cool guys with lots of skills!!! but fajitas at a famous steak house?
Yeah. Those guys are on a whole different level.
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Old 11-02-2005, 12:07 AM   #15297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Ok. You can't just show pictures!! You have to tell us where to get them!
Crashby: what the set up for Stockton now a days. I still have the yokomo (yes I know it not for carpet that what I be running in stock) and for mod I got a CK2.
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:32 AM   #15298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
CRC T-Fource
Hi anyone know the differences between the T-Fource standard kit and the T-Fource red edition? Beside the obvious, the red edition coming with red parts, what is exactly the difference between these two kits? Price is really different
Pictures of the standard edition T-Fource would be great
Thanks
J

frank@teamcrc.com
Subject: T-Fource kits

What are (if any) the differences between the standard and the red?

"No tape" battery retention system - **** included in both kits
CRC's Tube Lube **** included in both kits
Dual aluminum damper tubes **** included in both kits
Universal servo mounts, fits most any servo with NO chassis drilling - **** included in both kits
Dual aluminum lowered pod plates ****** Only in Team Red kits.
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:37 AM   #15299
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You guys can e-mail me if your interested in a near new (used two battery packs) red edition T-fource with the new shock and lowered red pods. Its a friend of mine and hes sticking with his link car instead of the t-bar.

kartchamp20002000@yahoo.com
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:29 AM   #15300
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Speaking of new cars for sale, here's a heads up to the 1/12th scale guys before I post this on the 'For Sale' thread. I'm selling a brand new in the bag BMI 12 conversion, the brand new carpet version with the redesigned lower rear pod plate and lowered pod side plates. Paid $165, selling for $140 including shipping. I've already got two good BMI 12's and don't need this one. PM or email me.
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