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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-31-2005, 11:00 AM   #15271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA
looking to buy asphalt 12 scale....any body got one that really works great.... Please no Yokomo 12th scale
This has only been used on carpet but the SP12M has always done well on asphalt as well.

SP12M, ESC, 12L, Revolver 12
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Old 10-31-2005, 01:41 PM   #15272
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Default Centre Shock Springs

looking for a centre shock spring guide listing lightest to hardest

anyone got a list ready made they care to share ?
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:17 PM   #15273
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Both the NZRCA and IFMAR rules just say 172mm maximum body width there's no mention of any other terminology.

So I have to assume they mean at the widest point so that makes a lot of the bodies I've looked at on online stores illegal (Parma speed 8 light for example).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seano
You raise a very good point there.

IFMAR Rules say
5.1.14a Bodyshell dimensions in millimetres
Overall width Max 172 Min 155

NZ Rules say
Overall Width Maximum Including Body, Bumpers & Wings 172mm

And under ROAR rules it says
Width: Maximum 172mm

So can anyone clear this up, are the bodies most run illegal?
*bump*
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:18 PM   #15274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
looking for a centre shock spring guide listing lightest to hardest

anyone got a list ready made they care to share ?
black
green
silver
blue
gold
red
copper
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:24 PM   #15275
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The rules in the ROAR rule book seem to specify that 172 mm is the maximum width of the car. I've never paid any attention to the body width, just the rear track width. So I just measured a couple bodies. The widest point I could find on a Speed 8 or Speed 12 measured 170mm, so regardless of what figure has been published those bodies are legal.
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:31 PM   #15276
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Default and another thing

I just noticed that Tower lists the Speed 8 regular weight at 171 mm and the Speed 8 light weight at 178 mm. Since they are the same body, just in different thickness material, there is an obvious error on the website. This is what happens when you get all your information off the internet.
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:32 PM   #15277
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Post Really....

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The rules in the ROAR rule book seem to specify that 172 mm is the maximum width of the car. I've never paid any attention to the body width, just the rear track width. So I just measured a couple bodies. The widest point I could find on a Speed 8 or Speed 12 measured 170mm, so regardless of what figure has been published those bodies are legal.
My speed 9 is the 177mm it's supposed to be.

Is this a rule that most people ignore then? As you can see from various rule books none of them mention the track width only the body.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:16 PM   #15278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
My speed 9 is the 177mm it's supposed to be.

Is this a rule that most people ignore then? As you can see from various rule books none of them mention the track width only the body.
Just pulled out a Speed 9 and it measured the same as the 8 and 12, 170 mm. All bodies flare at the bottom little after they come off the form, but you wouldn't want to use that as a measuring point.

Since the Speed 8, for instance, has probably been used at every 1/12th scale race at all levels for years it would probably be safe to say that any rules deviations it might have are being ignored.

So far today I've measured three Speed 8's, two Speed 12's and the Speed 9, and none of them were over 170 mm.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:16 PM   #15279
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Knowing OD, when he says he measured a couple of bodies, he really means he measured 7 or 8.

Chris
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:17 PM   #15280
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Yep, thought as much I was about 20 seconds late with the reply though.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:20 PM   #15281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Knowing OD, when he says he measured a couple of bodies, he really means he measured 7 or 8.

Chris
Well, I just got started...
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:55 PM   #15282
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Ref those Parma tyres rubbing on the left of the rear pod....

A company over this side of the pond has produced some great looking carbon fibre spacers that fit between tyre and axle...no need to change the shimming when changing tyre types
They are 1.3 mm thick and do the trick nicely.

Ive attached a couple of pics so you can see what i'm talking about. Sorry the second one is a bit out of focus....who said these digi cameras were easy to use
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-fibre-lyte-spacers.jpg   1/12 forum-fitted-spacer.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2005, 04:27 PM   #15283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
My speed 9 is the 177mm it's supposed to be.

Is this a rule that most people ignore then? As you can see from various rule books none of them mention the track width only the body.
Every big race that I have been to, which includes up to the Worlds, when they measure the width of a 1/12th scale car they have a box or channel that measures 172mm between the insides of the channel wall. When you go through tech, they place the car in the channel if you can gently squeeze the car into the channel, your good to go. If you have to use considerable force then you car is too wide. When it comes to the bodies, they will flex and fit in the channel quite easily. Also, remember that all sanctioning organizations have approved body lists and all of the bodies in question are on the list. It really is a non-issue. If your race director says that your body is too wide, then just show him, or her, the approved body list for the organization you are running under.
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Old 10-31-2005, 04:28 PM   #15284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazza_D
Ref those Parma tyres rubbing on the left of the rear pod....

A company over this side of the pond has produced some great looking carbon fibre spacers that fit between tyre and axle...no need to change the shimming when changing tyre types
They are 1.3 mm thick and do the trick nicely.

Ive attached a couple of pics so you can see what i'm talking about. Sorry the second one is a bit out of focus....who said these digi cameras were easy to use
Ok. You can't just show pictures!! You have to tell us where to get them!
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:02 PM   #15285
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Post C2 spring question.....

due to a slight stuff up (an ordering problem being corrected) I have ended up with red overhead and standard springs for my new C2 (never run one before).

The brushes are these:

http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/43/463.htm?413

Would using both red springs have a negative effect/any effect on this motor?

I can take a green standard spring from my Orion Element if it would be better for the C2.
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