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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-29-2005, 08:56 PM   #15241
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Default MABUCHI ROLL OUT

I just put together a L3 out of spare parts for my 7 yr old son , I'm looking for a starting rollout for the black can ( Tamiya sport tuned ) Mabuchi motor .

Thanks Bob
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Old 10-29-2005, 09:27 PM   #15242
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I run the CRC damper tubes on my car, what are the differant types of damper fluids that you guys use??
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Old 10-30-2005, 12:35 AM   #15243
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what model KO servo does everyone use in there 12th scale???

Chris08527
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Old 10-30-2005, 12:47 AM   #15244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Pro 10 that was some good info. I am going to my local track Sun again to take a closer look at things. Based on your info I will pay close attention to the track conditions and see what traction is like. Are there any optional parts I should pick up when I order the car?

Thanks for your help

Bump
You don't need any optional parts for these cars. It is more important to have some springs and shock oils to dial your car in:
Make sure you have some assorted shock oils. Something in the range of 25 to 50wt.
Front springs that are most often used: .018, .020 (included in both kits) and .022. Just easy to have.
A set of assorted center shock springs is usefull, as well as a set of side springs for the Carpet Knife.
For tires: out of the box, with the red edition, you have a set of pruple fronts and grey rears. These are the tires I run all the time, no need for other tires when you start, just make sure you coat the tires outside sidewalls with CA, and have someone true them for you, to approx. 47mm front and 49mm rear. This will avoid losing a good set of tires in a crash (chunks of foam coming off).
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:26 AM   #15245
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Legal 1/12th bodies.....

can someone clear this up for me please.....

According to the IFMAR rules (and my local club here in NZ of course) the maximum body width is 172mm.

And yet I've read that a lot of people use a Speed 8 which is stated as being 178mm on the Tower website.

Also I've just finished painting a Speed 9 which is listed (and I measured to check) at 177mm so both of these bodies would appear to be illegal?

Which is it, legal or not?
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Old 10-30-2005, 05:37 AM   #15246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris08527
what model KO servo does everyone use in there 12th scale???

Chris08527
I no longer have a 12th, but I was using the KO Propo 949 - its tiny and damn quick.
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Old 10-30-2005, 05:46 AM   #15247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
can someone clear this up for me please.....

According to the IFMAR rules (and my local club here in NZ of course) the maximum body width is 172mm.

And yet I've read that a lot of people use a Speed 8 which is stated as being 178mm on the Tower website.

Also I've just finished painting a Speed 9 which is listed (and I measured to check) at 177mm so both of these bodies would appear to be illegal?

Which is it, legal or not?
Mabushi,
172mm is more than likely your max track width not body width.
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:36 AM   #15248
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Default "Retread" questions camber

Just went over my tires from our last race to prep them for the next (measured and re-trued). On my CK 3.1R I ran Jaco grey rears and purple fronts at more-or-less "full" (out of package) diameter. This was my first 1/12 race in over 15 years. These were the first four packs on the chassis and it handled FAR better than I'd even dreamed, much less hoped.

My challenge for this week: I THINK I'm pretty close on setup as the car seemed to handle pretty well and I "only" got about 1.5mm od wear on the rear tires (and I'm guessing this will slow even further as the tires wear down) but the front tires exhibited definite camber wear to the inside. It was little enough difference that it was hard to see just looking at them (though once it was confirmed you could see it was the case) but when you held the tire in the caliper you could see that the inside edge was at least .5mm smaller od. I'm guessing, but I would think more even wear would be optimal.

My question is how much camber do most folks run? Any idea how much I should reduce my camber to eliminate the wear I've observed? I'm sure not much, but 1 degree? 1.5?

Many thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 10-30-2005, 10:19 AM   #15249
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somewhere between -1.5 and -2.0 degrees, varying with track and front spring weight. Basically, I only use camber adjustments to let the fronts tires wear even. I do exchange left and right tires every other run, to make sure they stay the same diameter.
And yes, wear should diminish once they become smaller.
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Old 10-30-2005, 03:28 PM   #15250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Just went over my tires from our last race to prep them for the next (measured and re-trued). On my CK 3.1R I ran Jaco grey rears and purple fronts at more-or-less "full" (out of package) diameter. This was my first 1/12 race in over 15 years. These were the first four packs on the chassis and it handled FAR better than I'd even dreamed, much less hoped.

My challenge for this week: I THINK I'm pretty close on setup as the car seemed to handle pretty well and I "only" got about 1.5mm od wear on the rear tires (and I'm guessing this will slow even further as the tires wear down) but the front tires exhibited definite camber wear to the inside. It was little enough difference that it was hard to see just looking at them (though once it was confirmed you could see it was the case) but when you held the tire in the caliper you could see that the inside edge was at least .5mm smaller od. I'm guessing, but I would think more even wear would be optimal.

My question is how much camber do most folks run? Any idea how much I should reduce my camber to eliminate the wear I've observed? I'm sure not much, but 1 degree? 1.5?

Many thanks,

Scottrik

Well...If you have any caster in the front end of your car, you only need about .5mm negative camber.

I run 5-degree blocks with .5mm neg-camber. Tires wear very well.
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Old 10-30-2005, 03:47 PM   #15251
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.5mm per side or .5mm total?

Scottrik
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Old 10-30-2005, 05:31 PM   #15252
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Thanks for all the help guys. I have decided to go with the carpet knife 3.2R. If all goes well I should be on the track in a little over a week. I will be back with more questions I am sure.
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Old 10-30-2005, 05:49 PM   #15253
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Post Well the rules.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
Mabushi,
172mm is more than likely your max track width not body width.
Both the NZRCA and IFMAR rules just say 172mm maximum body width there's no mention of any other terminology.

So I have to assume they mean at the widest point so that makes a lot of the bodies I've looked at on online stores illegal (Parma speed 8 light for example).
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Old 10-30-2005, 06:18 PM   #15254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
.5mm per side or .5mm total?

Scottrik

.5mm each side.
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Old 10-30-2005, 06:19 PM   #15255
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Default Axle Shimming

Hi All

I am having some trouble getting my rear axle shimmed properly.

I am using a new set of Parma White rears and I think this is where my problems are. The tire is hitting the pod and when I shim the tire far enough away, the stock axle will not have enough of the thread exposed to use the lock nut. I have to use the stock axle for now as my IRS Axle was worn down at the bearings causing wobble. A new one is on order.

Any ideas how I can shim this properly?

Thanks
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