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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-28-2005, 10:57 AM   #15226
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As is the Futaba 9650.
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:04 PM   #15227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
What is the differance between these two cars and which one is better suited for carpet if any?

Carpet Knife 3.2R

Team Red T-Fource 1/12th
Both cars will work well on carpet, they simply follow two different conventions. The Carpet Knife is a "Link Style" car using a mono-ball supported by two links to control rear pod movement. The T-Fource is a "T-bar" car using a fiberglass plate that flexes to control rear pod movement.

If you aren't hung up on CRC take a good look at the SpeedMerchant Rev.4 and the Hyperform car. Having run both cars this season I can vouch for both as great performers with good support for the average Joe.

I have to admit that I have fallen in love with the Rev.4 again, simple layout, quick in the corners and stick packs rather than saddle packs. You really can't go wrong with a Rev.4!

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com
http://www.hyperform-racing.com
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:18 PM   #15228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
I have to admit that I have fallen in love with the Rev.4 again, simple layout, quick in the corners and stick packs rather than saddle packs. You really can't go wrong with a Rev.4!

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com
Yup.
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:25 PM   #15229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Are these reciever packs necessary? I want to run a Q2 in a 12th as soon as I get one. Where can I buy a pack?
http://www.jphracing.com/

jake has them in stock right now.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:31 PM   #15230
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I've ran both the Knife and the T-force. I like the T-force because it suites my driving style. I am just as fast with the Knife on carpet as the T-force. Franky always has been fast with his Knife. I find it hard to beat him.
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Old 10-28-2005, 07:40 PM   #15231
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Default IB 3800 Batteries

OK...

I've broken down (lost touch with reason, took leave of my senses...) and bought a few packs of IB 3800's. What is an appropriate charge-discharge regimen for them? I tend to be fairly conservative...equalized my GP 3300's every run on the Novak tray, charged them at 4 amps (typically day before) and peaked them at 5 amps. Run time is more critical than voltage as these will be for my car run in Bob Stormer's new (here) L-D class where we're running 15-minute heats and hope to boost that to 20-minutes.

Also, should I cycle these new cells a couple times or charge 'em and let fly?

Many thanks guys,

Scottrik
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Old 10-28-2005, 09:11 PM   #15232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz_S
http://www.jphracing.com/

jake has them in stock right now.
couldn't find them? Got the link?
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Old 10-28-2005, 09:58 PM   #15233
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Hi,

Just had my first little play with a 1:12 car and ive been bit by the bug. Always viewed them as irritating snappy cars occasionally thrown in with the 1:10 cars if there wasnt enough 1:12 for there own heat, but having had a quick go of someones L3 im thinking of getting a L4 fairly soon.

Im not looking at other 12th's cos of the cost i can get a new L4 for, ease and price of spares for me, and its intended as something for a bit of fun and hopefully will improve my reflexes and hand/eye co-ord at the same time.
I can also run my old cells and motors with it and still get some life from them instead of binning them.

I could do with an idea of what spares i'll be needing to start with, local shops dont stock much in the way of 12th cars so i need an idea of what basic spares will be handy to get. T-Bars and what-not.
I'm just checking up on the Airtronics servo 94145 as i guess thats something else i'll need which i hadnt thought of!
I'll grab some of the new Jaco 2-stage foams as i see they've just come in stock, suggestions on what to use on a med-good grip carpet (only racing indoors with it) would be a great help too.

So, any suggestions on what i'll be needing asside from the kit would be much appreciated.
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Old 10-28-2005, 11:32 PM   #15234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulC2K
Hi,

Just had my first little play with a 1:12 car and ive been bit by the bug. Always viewed them as irritating snappy cars occasionally thrown in with the 1:10 cars if there wasnt enough 1:12 for there own heat, but having had a quick go of someones L3 im thinking of getting a L4 fairly soon.

Im not looking at other 12th's cos of the cost i can get a new L4 for, ease and price of spares for me, and its intended as something for a bit of fun and hopefully will improve my reflexes and hand/eye co-ord at the same time.
I can also run my old cells and motors with it and still get some life from them instead of binning them.

I could do with an idea of what spares i'll be needing to start with, local shops dont stock much in the way of 12th cars so i need an idea of what basic spares will be handy to get. T-Bars and what-not.
I'm just checking up on the Airtronics servo 94145 as i guess thats something else i'll need which i hadnt thought of!
I'll grab some of the new Jaco 2-stage foams as i see they've just come in stock, suggestions on what to use on a med-good grip carpet (only racing indoors with it) would be a great help too.

So, any suggestions on what i'll be needing asside from the kit would be much appreciated.
If you don't hit many things, then you would probably only need some spare T bars. As for the Jaco two stage tires, we have been running the double pink in the rear and double pink in the front. Sometimes the two stage purple in the front depending on the track conditions. The 12L4 is fairly durable. You might also want to pick up some IRS treaded front axles so you do not have to deal with the E clips that retain the front wheels. Other than that, just have fun!!
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Old 10-29-2005, 09:51 AM   #15235
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Thanks guys! This will be my first season running carpet or on-road of any kind for that matter. My driving & setup skills are pretty good so I just need a car that will be competitive and stay together well. I have looked at the Speed Merchant Rev.4, CEFX and others but after visiting the local tracks is seems like I will have part support for the car from CRC & Associated and I donít want to have any problems in that department. I think I have narrowed down my choice to the cars from CRC. What are the disadvantages & advantages of these two cars? The carpet knife 3.2R and the Team Red T-force.
Thanks for your help.

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Old 10-29-2005, 02:17 PM   #15236
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Both the Carpet knife and the T-fource are excellent cars. You will be happy with both.
It's all a matter of preference.
I'de say the T-fource, with it more outwards battery position is best suited for tracks with less traction, because it will generate more overall traction.
The Carpet Knife should be slightly better on high bite carpet, on tracks with lots of fast left-right transitions, because it has it's batteries dead center.
However, since both cars are almost infinetly adjustable, both can do well on any track, with the right setup, and driving skills.
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:25 PM   #15237
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Thanks for that Crashby, i'll grab 2 sets of those fronts and 4 rears, they should last me the winter and possibly next too if i dont go chunking them, and i'll grab a Integy lathe adapter for 12th to keep them good.

I'll have to search/ask on the VFS-1 thread about using this esc with 4 cells, hopefully these are fine as ive got 2 doing nothing as both played up whenever i tried them in my B4 (Q1 went in fine no hassle, and GTX did the same at the next meeting) so they've been relegated to my spares box, hopefully i can get some use from them in a 12th.

I know from experience 1:10 shells can make quite a difference to the handling of a car, is the same to be said on the 12th cars?
Prolly gonna go with the Proto Speed 12 purely cos there in stock, but the Parma Zytek is as well as there Speed 12, so is there a difference between them? Heads or windows, does it matter?

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Old 10-29-2005, 04:52 PM   #15238
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Go with the Speed 12... I didn't like the Zytek... no-one does at my local track. We all run either the Speed 12, Ascari or Speed 8. I personally like the Ascari.
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Old 10-29-2005, 05:49 PM   #15239
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Pro 10 that was some good info. I am going to my local track Sun again to take a closer look at things. Based on your info I will pay close attention to the track conditions and see what traction is like. Are there any optional parts I should pick up when I order the car?

Thanks for your help

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Old 10-29-2005, 06:18 PM   #15240
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For stock most people have been running the Speed 8 or Speed 12, the speed 12 steers more and is more edgy, I prefer the speed 8 since it is smoother and easier to drive (at least for me) and i tend to scrub less corner speed.
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