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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-26-2005, 06:49 PM   #15196
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I remembered this link, www.gearchart.com
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:54 PM   #15197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Very much like everyone just told me........but it is hard to find 12L4 chassis (not even Tower has it).....
About Lower motor POD plate....exactly, what is that..? The whole lowering pod like those from IRS...?
And the Rear chassis cross brace......what exactly is that...?
There are several carbon fiber on a little car like that, and I am kinda lost track whcih one is called which....

If I am using this one for carpet........can I just use the 12L4 chassis..? Or I have to get the rest items to match the chassis...?

It almost sounds like it is cheaper to buy a used 12L4 afterall...thanks for your info....
This is all you would need to get:

1ea 12L4 Chassis - part number 4558 - $45.00
1ea 12L4 bottom motor plate - part number 4559 - $10.99
1ea 12L4 Chassis cross brace - part number 4534 - $7.50
2ea 12L4 Battery trays - part number 4563 (these come by the pair) - $2.99

TOTAL = $66.48

I doubt that you will be able to find a used 12L4 for $66.48. That is all the parts you would need. The Yokomo YRX-12WE has all of the other parts. If you want to get IRS lowered pod plates, you can, but it's not essential to get started. You can order the parts direct from Associated.

Go to this website for more info: http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...hub_onroad.htm

Once you are at the site, scroll down to the 12L4 link and then download the drawings and parts list.
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:58 PM   #15198
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3.14 is pi. Pi is a universal constant, it doesnt have units

Oh..............yeaaaaaaaaaa, thats 4 years of engineering for ya, 1 to go
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:24 PM   #15199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
This is all you would need to get:

1ea 12L4 Chassis - part number 4558 - $45.00
1ea 12L4 bottom motor plate - part number 4559 - $10.99
1ea 12L4 Chassis cross brace - part number 4534 - $7.50
2ea 12L4 Battery trays - part number 4563 (these come by the pair) - $2.99

TOTAL = $66.48

I doubt that you will be able to find a used 12L4 for $66.48. That is all the parts you would need. The Yokomo YRX-12WE has all of the other parts. If you want to get IRS lowered pod plates, you can, but it's not essential to get started. You can order the parts direct from Associated.

Go to this website for more info: http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...hub_onroad.htm

Once you are at the site, scroll down to the 12L4 link and then download the drawings and parts list.
You are correct......and thanks for the detail information, and I will try to find these items....again, thanks.
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:22 PM   #15200
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I was wondering what size drill bit to use for the steering blocks? I have the newer ass. front end. They are very very tight out of the box. Anyone know the size bit to use for the Castor blocks? They are super tight as well.

Thanks.
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Last edited by tomdav; 10-26-2005 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:27 PM   #15201
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Well Im back! I got tied up with work the last couple of days. What do you guys think of the new Black Widow? Is the T-Fource Team Red car a T-bar car and what do you all think about this car, any weak points?

Thanks for all the help!
Scott
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:40 PM   #15202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdav
I was wondering what size drill bit to use for the steering blocks? I have the newer ass. front end. They are very very tight out of the box. Anyone know the size bit to use for the Castor blocks? They are super tight as well.

Thanks.
Steering blocks: .125" (1/8)

Castor blocks: 2mm, but they are supposed to be tight.
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Old 10-26-2005, 11:08 PM   #15203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Well Im back! I got tied up with work the last couple of days. What do you guys think of the new Black Widow? Is the T-Fource Team Red car a T-bar car and what do you all think about this car, any weak points?

Thanks for all the help!
Scott
from the trinity pics...the BlackWidow looks like a 12l4 with dampner tubes with a trinity pod. don't know if they are available yet?

yep the "T"-Fource has a "T"-bar
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Old 10-27-2005, 07:43 AM   #15204
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I would like to modify my 12L4, I'd like to use damper tubes in it, I think damper tubes should work better than the damper disk because isolates the side to side damping from the for and aft damping.... any idea how to make this mod?, I know the best would be to buy a whole new chassis, or a conversion like the BMI or the CRC T-Fource....., but if I can modify my L4 without changing the whole chassis, I'd rather do that. Any ideas.....
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Old 10-27-2005, 09:08 AM   #15205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
I would like to modify my 12L4, I'd like to use damper tubes in it, I think damper tubes should work better than the damper disk because isolates the side to side damping from the for and aft damping.... any idea how to make this mod?, I know the best would be to buy a whole new chassis, or a conversion like the BMI or the CRC T-Fource....., but if I can modify my L4 without changing the whole chassis, I'd rather do that. Any ideas.....
All you need is a CRC top, motor pod plate from their Carpet Knife 3.2 and their dampener tubes. Or...

If you do not have lowered pod plates, then you could order the IRS four screw kit for the IRS Rug Rat conversion, part number IRS1162, which gives you lowered pod plates and a four screw top plate with holes for dampener tubes. Cost is $47.95. You would still need to order the dampener tubes from CRC.
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Old 10-27-2005, 09:31 AM   #15206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Steering blocks: .125" (1/8)

Castor blocks: 2mm, but they are supposed to be tight.
Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:15 AM   #15207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMG1971
I would like to modify my 12L4, I'd like to use damper tubes in it, I think damper tubes should work better than the damper disk because isolates the side to side damping from the for and aft damping.... any idea how to make this mod?, I know the best would be to buy a whole new chassis, or a conversion like the BMI or the CRC T-Fource....., but if I can modify my L4 without changing the whole chassis, I'd rather do that. Any ideas.....

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1328

gets you the tubes, graphite, and hardware to put tubes on the l4 without changing chassis' or pod plates
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:56 AM   #15208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywhopper
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1328

gets you the tubes, graphite, and hardware to put tubes on the l4 without changing chassis' or pod plates
Thanks guys, I already have the crc blue alum. lower pods plates, been running them for more than a year.....

johnnywhopper would you please tell me what is exactly included in the uni-tune kit 1328 from CRC?, is it a direct fit to the L4?

Has any of you converted your L4 to tubes? what do you think about the idea?
Thanks
J
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Old 10-27-2005, 03:11 PM   #15209
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Hey Jorge,

The best way is to sold your L4 and get a nice bloody T-Fource

You should take a look to the Hyperform 12, this is a convertion for the L4. I have one, maybe we can work something, i am very happy by the performance of my CRC T-Fource, i think i will stay with it.

e-mail me if you want some infos.

Thanks
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Old 10-27-2005, 03:50 PM   #15210
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doh.
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Last edited by tomdav; 10-27-2005 at 10:32 PM.
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