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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-25-2005, 11:08 AM   #15151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
If it were any other time of year-you could ship me your car and I'd go through it for you. But the Champs are coming up...and I just got a dog, and my lawn needs raked and........

But I am more than happy to help you! kartchamp20002000@yahoo.com

Ray
man ray, you never offered me that service.lol

I can just rotate cars, i send you one, you work on it with a 2 week turn around. I run the other. I am right there for that.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:09 AM   #15152
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oh and as far as the truing the tires issue....relax guys they were all just trying to help. I should have been more clear. I understand why you tru tires and the sidewall size and all that....I just also know that at a big race you are more likely to keep your tires at a specific size for rollout purposes. This can be costly so I was curious as to how you guys handle club races. I have read stories where guys have 4 sets of tires for 4 runs at a trophy race because they want to keep them within .005 . But they conversly will run those tires at practice or club races.

Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:13 AM   #15153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardriven RC
Hey, Maybe not everyone is as "rich" as you, or maybe not everyone wants to spend their last dollar to try and win a race. Its remarks like yours that makes people leave this great hobby! If you feel that much better then the guys trying to save a buck by making their tires last a bit longer then go race with the pro's so you can get laughed away..... Oh wait, You won't get laught away by the pro's because they know how to behave themselves and understand that the "lesser" gods are the ones keeping this hobby alive!

Now if you were to lose the sarcasm, then maybe people would listen to you but I'm jguessing your just to dumb to understand whats going on in the world.

Wow, thanks for that. I'm impressed with your internet muscles.

I didn't insult anyone's intellignce or even make my point at anyone in particular, for what it's worth. I watch guys with thousands of dollars invested in racing gear to play with R/C cars on the weekends. They spend countless hours making sure that bodies are mounted perfectly and chassis are balanced to the gram, and spend countless dollars on buying high-end equipment that for most of us, doesn't make any difference on the track. Then when it comes down to a $12 set of tires, they cut corners to try to get MONTHS of tire life, because "they come large out of the package for a reason."

Run truck tires on your car, for all I care. If you can make it work, bully to you.

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Old 10-25-2005, 11:13 AM   #15154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
man ray, you never offered me that service.lol

I can just rotate cars, i send you one, you work on it with a 2 week turn around. I run the other. I am right there for that.

You dont need my help

Bob-you'll love 12th scale with the right car!!
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:17 AM   #15155
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sure I do, I am a lazy butt.

bob,
another reason for 4 set is that the tracktion in the tire changes from run to run unless you clean off your tires. so the tracktion compound builds up. So by running 4 different sets, you only have to worry about tracktion of the track changing.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:37 AM   #15156
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Originally Posted by theisgroup
sure I do, I am a lazy butt.
Well-that reason will cost you a LOT!!!

On the tire size-this is the one of the last Great threads on RCtech that is still full of daily technical help and loads and loads of tips. Lets not reduce its importance with sarcasm and fighting like on so many other threads.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:40 AM   #15157
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ray,

tried a brushless in my 1/12 for the region 9 regionals this weekend. I picked the lrp/reedy setup. man that thing is smooth. You can almost drive it like a stock with Mike L's setup.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:43 AM   #15158
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Originally Posted by theisgroup
ray,

tried a brushless in my 1/12 for the region 9 regionals this weekend. I picked the lrp/reedy setup. man that thing is smooth. You can almost drive it like a stock with Mike L's setup.

I have identical BMI L4's!! One is supposed to be my club/mod car. I have been toying with the idea of buying the Novak GTB system. I think it would be a blast to have a mod 12th I never have to take the motor out of.
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Old 10-25-2005, 12:20 PM   #15159
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Any suggestions for gearing a brushless? Just need something to get started with.
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Old 10-25-2005, 12:24 PM   #15160
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they are going to let us run stock with the brushless because the lrp can limit the rpm to 24,000. so I only need one at this point.

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Old 10-25-2005, 12:25 PM   #15161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudpuppy
Any suggestions for gearing a brushless? Just need something to get started with.
on carpet I gear it like my 9t so I was running a 20/96
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Old 10-25-2005, 01:39 PM   #15162
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Thanks for the reply
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Old 10-25-2005, 02:29 PM   #15163
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Hey ray running your tires that big is awesome, but are you gluing the side walls to stop them from chunking. I am captain chunk and have been truing my tires just to make them last longer. If I could run my tires that height I would run nothing but 12th scale, then my son's college fund would be safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
You mean you dont cut your tires to 43/46 right out of the package??

Lowered pods are the bomb!! Any brand-but I run the new IRS pod with the long left pod (4-screwtop plate). This combined with the IRS set of axle height adjusters, you can liteally run rear tires from 1.90 to 1.65" and never vary more than 0.5mm in ride height the whole life of the tires.

I have been setting my car at just below 4mm at start of day. After the 1st or 2nd qualifier-I drop the axle a 0.5mm and maybe drop it again for the Main-if my cars too close to 3mm. This way I maintain a ~3.5mm ride height all day!!!
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Old 10-25-2005, 05:03 PM   #15164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudpuppy
Any suggestions for gearing a brushless? Just need something to get started with.
Gear it like a 9T.....34-35mm rollout.
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Old 10-25-2005, 05:39 PM   #15165
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Default l3 to l4

what would i need to make the l4 chassis fit on my l3
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